Loader Mutt Continues...

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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

What you need for that project, Mike... is a Continental Y69 or a Hercules ZXB, or a Waukesha ICK... and a transmission out of a Cushman Truckster... they'd be perfect for that kind of project...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

mrbrown
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First and Last Name: Mike Brown
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by mrbrown »

DaveKamp wrote:What you need for that project, Mike... is a Continental Y69 or a Hercules ZXB, or a Waukesha ICK... and a transmission out of a Cushman Truckster... they'd be perfect for that kind of project...
Not in my scrap pile but a friend may have Cushman parts. I have a Briggs flathead twin, 2518 cub frame & hydro, rusty Ford 120 hood and a rusty home made grill. I have 4 lug 570x 8 trailer wheels on the back & a set of 6" on the front. I think the hydro will be speedy enough with the small tires. I built a wood seatbox/bed from old barn wood and have some fenders for under it. About half done, not exactly a bolt together, but it will if everything is in the right place. Mike :D

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dag1450
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by dag1450 »

Mike...you need to start a new thread for that.... :lol:
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

I agree, Dave- Mike needs to start a thread on it... suffice to say, if you're gonna build it, build it WEIRD, so it has some SOUL...

Speaking of which, the idea came up over a decade ago, to build a high-speed Cub Cadet, and I haven't forgotten... Off the top of my head, I don't remember the names, but I could find them in my brain after searching some archives and emails from boards-long-gone... Don and Dusty come to mind...

But 4 speeds, with reverse removed and gear clusters swapped, an iron transaxle with independant suspension front and back, running skinny, bald salt tires, carefully smoothed bodywork, and a very, very, very carefully built engine by one of our tractor-pulling geniuses that'll spin-to-the-sky... I did the calculations, I think 130mph was the first-echelon of cuttoff for windload horsepower... and depending on what else could be done underhood, and if the transaxle would survive it...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

mrbrown
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by mrbrown »

Yes i'll start a new post shortly when i can get it to a pic form. No thanks to those high speed cubs. Those 20+ mph pulling speeds are scary enough. I'd rather go over Niagara Falls in a barrel.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Hmmm... yeah... that's a plunge I think I'll skip for now... :lol:

By the way, Guys- Other things, particularly things that will be unreachable in my wintertime scope, are on the front-burner right now, and the weather is fair, so betwixt that and work, I haven't had much indoor shop-time, but that doesn't mean I'm not 'working' on the Mutt rearend right now.

the wheel centers liberated from the Studebaker wheel conversion will work nicely inside Cub Cadet wheels- i can carefully snip out the original centers, position and weld in the new ones. What I don't have (and I used to have gobs of) are extra wheels of the heavy IH Cub Cadet variety. I have a set of 12" rims off something clearly lighter-duty, which I'm NOT going to use because they wouldn't survive... but one thing that I'm considering heavily, is integrating a machined running surface into the center of the wheel to serve as a brake drum for separate right/left brakes. The inside diameter of the finished wheel will be about 10", which happens to be a common brake drum ID for Jeeps, trailers, etc., so it's...

(grab something solid...)

A SHOE-IN... :lol: :lol: :lol:

:roll:

But I'm also considering how I'd like to build such wheels. I'm contemplating a variety of options whilst in this state of seasonal transition empasse... and when the time comes, I'll have decided on some path, and perhaps, acquired a pair of heavy IHCC wheels to be my workpieces.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so, the Beastly Transaxle project was sitting nicely off the side, on the project bench while I installed two near airconditioning systems in the house, and Mutt, being on it's SECOND replacement axleshaft, was doing just fine, and one day, whilst I was abusing it heavily as I always do, and it was just fine... then I was driving along, doing absolutely NO work, and it decided to just... stop going.

Engine fine, no strange sounds, just no motion.

Took me a while to get around to moving it to a working position, but I did. Jacked it up, supported it in the middle, pulled off one set of wheel weights, then a second set of weights, then two wheels (loaded with fluid), then removed the rear counterweight box, then the cover (fluid looked... okay...)

and once open, I found the source of the problem...

A slight gap between the left and right sides of the differential carrier.

Now, this is NOT the Ford Limitied Slip diff... this is an IHCC WF cast standard unit.

Am I disappointed? Not really. I've slugged it really hard with several different engines, NONE of them were any less that 25% greater than the original 14-16hp that came in these things, and I highly doubt that the original engineers had anticipated that it would get thrashed viciously the way I do.

But anyway, it's time to get back-in-the-saddle with the Limited Slip program and get this little beastie back in operation.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so last fall's progress was pushed aside by winter weather. In February, I had a knee injury on a job in Minnesota which required surgery (reattach quad tendon to kneecap), and recovery didn't go particularly well, and lots of other things that came in as higher priority... fortunately the Kubota BX1800 has been running okay, but the transaxle crack simply won't stop leaking... and from a hydraulics and manuverability standpoint, it just isn't up to the Mutt's abilities.

The Mutt has been sitting along the west side of the driveway.

So today, I made a little progress... I made a trammel to hold the torch, and rough cut the 12-bolt wheel centers closer to the proper OD to fit inside some IHCC wheel rims... then turned them in the lathe to a close fit.
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I cut the 5-bolt centers out of the wheels, and scrubbed 'em clean with flap disc.
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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Then I assembled them onto the hubs and spindles, and used a spacer to get the outer edge of the hub inset from the tire's outer edge by a half-inch, then tack-welded the centers to the rims, and double-checked to verify that it's square and centered. Yep!
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I then marked the axle tube for the INNER edge of the tire. Next will be to determine how FAR the inner edge of the tire will be from the tractor frame, set the length of the tubes (they will NOT be the same length due to the ring-pinion offset) and then fit and weld the tubes to the mounting flanges.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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So here's the flange parts, waiting from last year. Getting the tube length is important, I have to make sure that the outer edge of the tires is not wider than the bucket and front tires.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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dag1450
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by dag1450 »

As if cub spec wasn't heavy duty enough... now we are full on military! Looks great. Sorry to hear about your knee setback. I'm going in for a hip replacement in two weeks. Good times! :roll:
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Don't fret the hip, Dag- Noel in Tennessee just had one done, and he's not regretting it.

I'm certain his (and your) recovery time will be SUBSTANTIALLY quicker than mine...an injury is a whole lot more complicated than a planned surgery.

So far, Today's progress amounts to lots of cleaning up the driveway in prep for winter snow/ice. I have stopped for a moment to take some measurements:

From wheel back mounting face to back edge of tire: 4".
From the OEM axle flange mounting face, to nearest frame obstruction: 5-7/8'
That means the frame-to-tire clearance BEFORE was 1-7/8".
I'm going to go to 2-1/4", so that I have a LITTLE MORE frame clearance for tire chains.

Now, I just have to translate that into tube lengths appropriate for the right and left sides, and fitting 'em to the flanges and adding gussetry.

( is gussetry a word? It IS Sunday, so I'm calling it fair. )

The other circumstance here... is brakes. In it's previous arrangement, Loader Mutt had NO brakes. My intention, when I did the build, was to SEPARATE the right-left brakes, but I was focused on just getting the whole system of loader, steering, etc., going, that I never got around to doing the actual brakes. With the treadle on the left side, my right foot is totally free to operate them together, or independantly, so long as the pedals are side-by-side, and not too narrow for a size 14 boot to actually work them independantly. No, I do NOT have Size 14 boots... they're closer to an 11-12, but wintertime boots are so big. My other option, is to redesign the treadle so that I can op the direction/speed from either right or left foot, which would free the opposite foot to modulate a brake... and of course, if I was applying brake to BOTH, then I wouldn't need treadle (just let it return to center).

This brings up a new consideration... My PREVIOUS utilization of independant brakes would have been for two basic reasons-
1) Traction control... to 'tie down' a wildly spinning wheel. This is usually for dealing with ice.
2) Locking down the machine when getting off while leaving it run (parking brake).

The first is obvious enough- the OEM diff is totally open, and with a full bucket, there's a substantial amount of CG shift forward. Fortunately, Mutt's front tires are 18-850's, so even WHEN there's a substantial transfer forward, rolling resistance doesn't go up anywhere NEAR as high as with a much smaller tire, so having a spinning wheel on one of the back corners, a little lean to one side (of my arse, anyway) always worked out well at maintaining useable tractive effort. There's been SOME instances, that when I'm traversing a difficult incline, the front axle runs out of it's articulation range, resulting in one drive tire being lifted enough to spin, and thus, not climb a grade. This occurs even with an empty bucket, so having the ability to hold back that spinning tire would help it make that kind of a grade transition.

The second, is because these machines just LOVE to creep. My treadle setup isn't perfect, it doesn't even have a centering spring... and YES, I should fix that... I should add an oscillation damper, and a centering adjustment, and tighten up the linkage to nix the little bit of slop that's there. Ultimately, what I WOULD have chosen, is to add a mechanical clutch to disengage the hydrostat completely, but my driveline setup didn't offer me quite enough space, nor did I have the resources to add one substantial enough to suit the 22hp Honda's power.

Today, The REAL reason for the brakes' function will basically just to lock it down solid. The limited slip should resolve most everything else. Loader-Mutt's geometry allows a really tight turning curve, and I expect that the limited slip diff will PROBABALY kick in a really tight turn, but I don't think that'll be a problem, especially with a full bucket.

Did I mention that Loader Mutt's sole purpose, is that front-end-loader? Yeah, nothing else matters... scoop things, lift things, push things, dump things... get in tight quarters, do hard work, and move fast.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

Hope your recovery continues! Comp isn't fun to navigate!!! Keep the pics and story coming, very interesting, and you are a talented fabricator.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, hangon to your hat, my shop is a formidable mess...

Still not getting any progress on knee, bending and kneeling ain't so great...

But I had this stand I made from some company drops. It's somewhat of an oddity, but I picked up this imported plasma cutter, and burned a square hole in it big'nuff for a 2" reciever... then I made some handy mounts for a bench vise, and a pipe vise...
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See:
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And this is really handy, I made one for the pipe vise, too... I can turn 'em any direction, I'm adding a reciever that's horizontal underneath, too, for holding at 90 degree planes, on either side...

But here's the cool one:
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Holding the IHCC hydrostat transmission at a nice elevation and angle for the work I need to do!

(yes, the shop is a helluva mess)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So... next step, is to get the side plates readied, and the tubes prepared to set in:
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Those ARE Dana 60 outers, and the tubing is thick wall. Cut nice with both HSS and carbide, but they're not smooth enough, nor true enough, to cut fast. I know there's assembly documents on the Dana axle systems (i think Dana sold them in volume to manufacturers as assemblable segments, I know many were assembled for specialty mobile equipment) I know they had techniques for alignment, but was not expecting these spindles to be out-of-true with the tubes. No, they're not bent... it was MADE with this offset... and it MIGHT not have mattered in the original setup (it's a full-floating axle after all)... but in what I'm doing here, that axle shaft will be substantially shorter, so I'm gonna make it much more precise so that I don't wind up with binding or scrubbing on the splines. My initial axle shafts will be those used on the Mustang limited-slip, shortened, with handmade hub plates welded onto the ends. I have the Dana 60 axleshafts, I'll PROBABLY shorten those, and cut splines into them to slip in later if I so choose... but the short stubs I'll re-use (I still have the rest of the Dana housing, it's ring and pinion, etc, and a use for it!)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

DaveKamp wrote:
Tue Feb 01, 2022 10:03 pm
Okay, hangon to your hat, my shop is a formidable mess...

Still not getting any progress on knee, bending and kneeling ain't so great...

But I had this stand I made from some company drops. It's somewhat of an oddity, but I picked up this imported plasma cutter, and burned a square hole in it big'nuff for a 2" reciever... then I made some handy mounts for a bench vise, and a pipe vise...

20220125_201815.jpg

See:
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20220126_235103.jpg
Nothing wrong with a messy shop, it means you have plenty of spare parts.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Here's pix of progress...

I made a 90 degree riser adapter for the work-stand, slid in the pipe-vise for some careful fitwork. I also found perfect material to make an alignment tool for assembling the outers in the right spot!
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The left hand side needed a deep recess to clear the bearing, so the flange is made of circular cutouts that have been cleaned up on the 10EE.
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

I cut matching recesses between the bearing plate and the outer shell, so that the studs I use to assemble it will not be subjected to shear loading. You can see the left hand diff support bearing shell here... it's mounted in this plate, because the area it USED to be mounted in, has been removed to allow clearance for a much larer diif setup.
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Here's the right hand side in situ, partially tacked together:
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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Pickin' away, and getting closer each day!
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

Keep the pictures and story coming. It's amazing to watch.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So in Today's episode, the next major hurdle is getting things sorted-out... and especially, getting it checked-out for fitment and tolerances, bearing clearance allowances, etc.

In order to do that, I also have to do something else...

I have to install and assemble the differential.

Now, I did this before... if you go back about oh... nine-ten pages, you'll see the pictures where I chewed a massive hole in the left side of the transaxle casting, and totally evicerated the spot where the left-hand differential support bearing cup used to be. I then cut and sandwiched TWO steel plates, one matching the ID of the left-side hole, and the other flat against it, and against the outer face of the transaxle casting. This combination of plates was then carefully bored to accept the bearing cup, but at a position significantly LEFT of where it originally was, because the Ford limited-slip hangs out a fair chunk leftward.

At the same time, I reduced the protrusion depth of the RIGHT HAND bearing cup, because, again, the Ford LSD sticks out a bit further on the right. That wasn't enough to totally clear the Ford as 'stock', so I 'acquired' a little more fitment by removing some material from the right and left sides of the LSD carrier, and at same time, I cut it to make the side bearings fit, and when I was done, I gave it a 'rough guess' of space sufficient to carry on with the next phases. What I did NOT do, is assemble it, and determine-for-certain 1) wether the damned thing would actually be assembleable, and FIT, and 2) have enough clearance in the cups, bearing spacing, etc., to make it adjust to provide proper gear lash.

While this seems rather elementary, it can be a little bit of a challenge, but I did it... mostly. I got the carrier in there, with ring gear on, and bolted together, with both cups in... and it appears that my results are very promising... I believe the right side will be perfect (and yield perfect gear lash) without any shims on the right side cup. The left side will PROBABLY get one very thin shim, possibly a little more, but not too many. Gear lash is within an adjustment range at LEAST< and might be perfect as-is at BEST. I'll stress that when I did this machine work, I did NOT spend finite hours performing measurements and calculations, I did not do a CAD drawing, hell, I didn't even pay much attention to the handwheels on my lathe and mill, I just cut $#!t till it Fit.

So the next part (actually, the first part) was to get it put together. If you recall, you'll notice that when I was figuring this out, I took the LSD out of the Mustang rearend in one-piece... I yanked the cover, spilled 90wt on my shoes, knocked out the C-clips, pulled the axleshafts out, unbolted the bearing caps, whacked it with a plastic mallet, and lifted the works out with an old glove holding a plastic bag. Then I removed the ring-gear bolts, pushed the gear off, and gave the diff carrier a bath in mineral spirits. THEN I took it apart.

Why?

Because it was clear that there was no-way-in-hell the gadget was EVER gonna go in the back door in one piece. Yknow how the puller sites and forums say that the DART 6-and-something is the largest that'll fit? Yeah.... NO... larger WILL fit, if you, very literally, think OUT of the BOX.

Now, if this was a standard (non Limited-Slip), it'd never fit in this housing.. the width won't make it, and if it WOULD, one could not get one side in far enough to sneak the ring-gear in past the back machined surface. The Limited Slip carrier is a metal sandwich that comprises of two halves... and with the side cut out and moved over, one can put the right half of the LSD carrier into the hole, and with the right hand bearing cup out, push the carrier and bearing all the way to the right. THEN you can fish the LEFT side of the carrier housing in through the big hole in the side... then mate it to it's brother, and install ONE bolt, while reaching through the right hand side bearing-carrier hole. Then rotate the whole works, add a bolt, and repeat, 'till they're all in.

Now, the SOB here, is the fact that when you go to assemble those two halves, there's a fist-full of OTHER parts that need to be handled... there's two outer bevel gears (one on each axleshaft), a crosspin holding the spider bevels, two convex bushings, two contact plates, five springs, and one threaded pin that all need to be stuffed into that assembly.

And it would be just fine, exceptfor the fact that GRAVITY really wants to disassemble all that stuff.

no, I did NOT put the two plates and five springs in tonight... I didn't NEED to, in order to get the axleshafts measured for trimming, or for any other reason, so I 'went around that fortress' for now, under the presumption that, when i get around to the final assembly, I'll actually have to rotate the transaxle housing to the right 90 degrees on my workstand, so that gravity is not 'fighting' me. I'll also need a little grease to keep things in place, and once in, I'll hafta RINSE the grease out, so it doesn't contaminate the HyTran. And even though the reorientation will make the reassembly vastly easier, it does NOT mean I won't need supstantial ObGynical surgery skills to put it all back together... but after I get these next few tasks figured out, then I'll take it all apart again, do some other things, then clean and paint it, then reassemble it, with gaskets, shims, etc., in place, and get ready to mount it onto the Mutt.

And no, I have NO clue wether this will actually WORK... i'm not getting any of this info from anywhere else, I'm just following a crazy idea...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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So there you see... it IS in there, and you saw what I had to do to get it IN. Tomorrow, I'll get some more crazy stuff done, but I'll hafta also make a way to set the trans on it's side to get the diff carrier fully assembled IN the housing...

I also have to drill and tap the carrier for ring bolts, and drill and tap the left hand bearing-carrier sideplate, and, then cut the axleshafts to proper length, make some drive plates for the ends of the axles, get 'em in place and ready for install.

I need a 1/4-28 tap, more high-strength studs for holding the sides on... (sigh)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And a quick refresh of just what this is going in, and why...
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Hey Guys!

Okay, it's been a busy winter, finally got a bunch more stuff caught up, and the bitter-cold period rolled through, so I managed more progress... time for update on the ghoulish venture.

So the next major hurdle, was getting outer housings made. If you recall, I carved out some space in the left side of the transaxle housing to make room for the Auburn 7.25" limited-slip carrier. This required that I relocate the left-side diff bearing outward an inch or so.

Why did I chose the Auburn 7.25? Two reasons... 1) It was Free... with a capital F. 2) it would fit (notice, small f). Why SMALL f? because I had NO CLUE wether it actually would, or not, but the Auburn LSD has one characteristic that a typical open diff does NOT have... It comes apart in the middle... which is why excising iron from the left side bearing plate was actually successful... the ring-gear and right half WILL fit in through the back door, but once in, the LEFT side will NOT... but the 5" bimetal hole saw said that the left side COULD fit in through the west-wing's picture window.

So far, you've seen pix of this, with the two side pieces assembled, and when I had the shafts in for scrutiny, I had the side pinions in place, but not the crosspin, spiders, spider bushings, crosspin retainer, springplates or springs, and only two of the seven-ish long bolts. Why? well, because I had no reason to fuss with all that, I was on a mission.

NOW, I have to figure out how I'm actually gonna assemble all that other stuff... and the most challenging, will be getting those plates and springs to go where they need to go, rather than spilling out in a big mess... getting the sides in position so I can actually START the bolts.

The photos you're about to see, illustrate the assembly circumstance while sitting nicely atop my Johannsen Radial's spacious drill table. I'm trying different methods of holding the mess together, in such a way that I can actually do it in "REAL LIFE". I CONSIDERED turning the transaxle 90 degrees on my workstand, but then I realized that SOMEDAY, I might be kneeling on the ground, with Loader-Mutt on blocks, and I'm trying to put the thing back together, where being on it's side is not a practical option.

So follow along with the next few pix and laugh at me... Don't worry, I'm laughing too... just as long as I don't lose one of these !@#$%*! springs...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK


( :roll: )
Sorry for the delay, Amidst the 5G changeover, my ISP has gone down...
Pictures will get posted as soon as service is re-established...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, here we go... this is assembly visuals on the Auburn 7.5" Limited Slip:

First off, if you ever wondered what the gear ratios of a hydrostat are:
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The pinion is 10 tooth, the ring gear is 46, so 4.60:1

The hydrostat shaft is 12 teeth, the bull gear is 65, so that's 5.42:1..

The total ratio, from hydrostat to wheels, is 24.91:1
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These numbers have absolutely NO relevancy to this project, aside from the fact that, since I was standing there looking at it, I could reach in there, mark and count 'em, and document it for someday when I actually had some particular reason to know.

One thing I have NOT covered yet, is the ring gear mounting. Warning- this will NOT seem particularly professional-ist in appearance, but it WILL be fine.

The original Ford 7.5" ring gear was bolted from behind. On disassembly, I unbolted and knocked it off the Auburn unit, after which, I turned the OD of the Auburn case JUST ENOUGH to slip the OEM IH Cub Cadet ring gear in place. Look back to one of the earliest pages, you'll see I used a flapdisk to erode the heads off RIVETS that were holding the OEM ring gear to the OEM carrier.

Many guys I know, feel that rivets are somehow inferior to using bolts and nuts. In some ways, they might be... but in terms of a HOT rivet, they are most-certainly-not, and for a simple reason: The HOT rivet is, as name suggests, hot when installed. It is actually RED HOT, and thus, it is expanded. Once in place, the installer has a dolly against the head of the rivet, and addresses the straight end with a hammer, flattening it out. What's ALSO happening, is the shank is being expanded to fit the hole tightly. As the rivet cools, it shrinks, squeezing the two surfaces together, and it does so with tremendous force. Between that, and filling the hole gap with vigor, a hot rivet is oftentimes much tighter result than a bolt, because the bolt leaves a finite gap that the surfaces can slip against. Furthermore, a bolt with threads is inherently at risk of fracture from the threads' natural stress riser... hot rivets don't have that issue.

I have no clue how IHCC applied the rivets holding the ring gear, but I KNOW that I have not seen evidence of one slipping on those rivets.

Unfortunately, I can't rivet this one together.

Best I could do, is line it up so as to get as many bolts, in as much meat, as I could possibly drill-and-thread... and once doing, center punch the positions, then drill and tap for a bolt that would provide the best grip and shear-resistance. In this case, it's a 3/8" bolt with a solid shank just slightly deeper than the IHCC ring gear's flange was thick. When I drilled the Auburn's body, I drilled, then threaded, then drilled a little bit more, such that the shoulder of the 3/8" allen-head bolt would sink down INTO the Auburn far enough so that any shearing-action would force the bolt shanks against the housing, thus divorcing the threads from any of the shear stress of gear action.

There are many places on the Auburn where there's lots of metal to run those bolts in, and I bought the bolts LONG in order to get the right thick-flat area, with the absolute intention of simply cutting off the excess on the back. I applied red loctite specifically because, once threaded in and socked down tight, I had NO intention of removing any of the fasteners.
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Here's what it looks like from the top...
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They're all in place, and should stay fine. Due to a slight malignment of drilling and tapping, I did have one bolt seize in the housing about 2/3rds of the way down, which resulted in a problem, and I resolved it by breaking the bolt off flush with the ring gear, it now serves as a pin, rather than a bolt. I don't forsee any issues with this, but it isn't picture-perfect. I did some math, and the amount of force required to simultaniously shear ALL these fasteners, is substantially higher than what the pinion gear would probably tolerate.

So anyway, I gotta figure out how to put this bugger together whilst placing it in through the side-window... an exercise of ferrous obstetrics...

In order to do that, I gotta 'dry run' the assembly in two sides. Let's say I try to assemble it on the ring-gear side:
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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