Loader Mutt Continues...

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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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So that all makes visual sense, right?

That pin, though... the one that keeps the crosspin under control... that's not gonna work so great, plus... the right side half is NOT particularly easy to get into the transcase back door... and holding it together amidst gravity is likely NOT gonna happen.

Let's try a different scenario... preassemble the guts on the LEFT side...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

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So THIS seems pretty workable.

I'll slip the right side in, find a way to keep the side gear/cone clutch in place, then slip the left half, with all the guts wired in, the crosspin on the securing pin, and get it lined up with the right half, then start the bolts....

Once started, I'll get just enough force going to keep the plates from flopping open and dropping springs into the sump... and then I'll cut the wire, fish all the pieces out, and sock the bolts in holding it all together.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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Tom Scott
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by Tom Scott »

Dave - Great write up and detailed project pics. Even for guys that wouldn't try something so custom, it advances their view of what's possible with some ingenuity. I've done these types of project write-ups with pics, and it can be tedious, so thanks for taking the time to detail it.

As an engineer, I also appreciate the value decisions of bolting the ring gear and accepting one broken off head of a bolt. Sometimes you need to step back and accept "good enough" for the application. As a younger man I'd of stressed over an issue like that. Now I can totally relate, that ring gear isn't going anywhere!!
:beer:
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Hee hee... thanks, Tom!

Yeah, well, I figure, if it DOES cut loose, it will be simply because it sheared off all the bolts, and will just be spinning on-the-pig... I'm certain that the bolts I used will NOT have the same stress response as the rivets used before, but I'm not of the gut feeling that it will be significant enough to matter.... but I dunno, I'm gonna find out through empirical means- if it breaks, I know it wasn't enough.

Heck, I dunno what this case is gonna do since I carved a 5" hole in the original bearing mount side... but see... this isn't about being perfect, or even correct, it's about stepping outside the (gear)box. I'm certain many of the guys here look at it and think that this kind of thing is way outside the realm of their shop, and rightfully so, it ain't a drill-press and 4" grinder kind-of-task, but it's really not the machines that make this happen, it's looking at it, and wondering What If.

I don't have anything substantial to lose here, other than my evening time and some carbide tool bits, ear-rash from getting some cutting oil and chips on my wife's mud-room carpet (it's disposable, Honey, really). It's a learning experience, and the cost of tuition has a 'special' pricetag. I figure, if this works, anyone else willing, can try it, and know that whatever results I get, they could get, too... and if I totally turn this transaxle into scattered fragments of oily ore in my driveway, well, it'll be entertainment for everyone, too! :lol:
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

I got BEARINGS!
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WooHoo! Two bearings, two races, and it set me back uhm... $50ish or so? Something like that.

First order of biz is to get the old races out of the cups. Now, in case you don't remember, I re-dimensioned these bearing cups two ways- first, was I re-cut the ID to accept the larger bearings used in the Auburn diff. Next, I re-cut the length of ONE of the cups to provide enough clearance to keep from contacting stuff it shouldn't... AND, get the ring gear offset within adjustable range. I try to do good machining work, some days I'm bettern' others... when I did these cups, I must'a been having a good day, because those races were SNUG... and there's no back-side to reach to knock them out... so I used the previously illustrated method:
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I ran a bead of ER-70S around the ID. That shrinks 'em about 0.005", which puts 'em right at fall-out-into-your-hand territory.

I pressed the new bearings and races in, and I don't know who Bob is, but everyone says he's my uncle:
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Now comes the part I've been... well... not 'worrying', so much as... wondering...

Assembling the Assembly through the Assend of this case:
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Fish the right side, with ring gear in...
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with the bolts ready, of course... and the bearing stickin' out the passenger-side window...
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Almost forgot the axle pinion!!! :lol:

Then fidget it around...
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This is the tough part, it takes exactly three hands, and there's no way I can actually HOLD a camera... and if I had a video cam, you'd only see my back and elbows here...
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It's like... pulling calves...

But with no gloves, and lots of very SHARP edges...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

But I DID get it in position, and got some bolts started, without droppin' the guts out into the bottom of the case...
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Now, that LITTLE bolt, is actually a PIN... it retains the pinion crosspin, which is good for me, 'cuz I STARTED it into the left half to hold it all together for the horizontal operation.
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I can reach it through the driver's side window BEFORE putting the bearing plate and axle outer on, and I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get a wrench on it through the back door, too.

Now, started the Auburn's assembly bolts with my fingers, they threaded in nicely... until it came to snug them, then I could get a 1/4" socket wrench in there with a 1/2" short socket to take up much of the slack
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Then I got to THIS point:
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And it just didn't want to go any further. Dunno why... So I thought, mebbie the springs were just that beastly, put the side plate on, and brought it in to put a little more pressure on the outside of the case... and no change at all. THen I checked the springs, there's still no significant force.

Then the dinnerbell rang. Marinated chicken in her air-fryer, with garlic bread and asperagus. Then ice-cream and a movie.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So after dinner and a movie, I had plenty of time to contemplate, and I realized that the crosspin was displaced hard to one side for a reason:
The bevel gears... one, or both, had a tooth directly on tooth of the axle gear!!!
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Can't see it at all in this pic, but don't be surprised... I couldn't see it EITHER...

So I eased out the bolts, put vise-grips on the right axleshaft and gave it a smart whack with mallet, then tried closing it up, and IT WENT!
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Next order of biz, was getting the orange assembly wire fished out... which was a fiasco in itself...
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Once again, I had to loosen up the two halves. Fortunately, the side bearing plate makes a really nice press to hold things together, so I was able to ease it out until there was JUST BARELY enough pressure to keep the springs from falling out...
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And I got the rest of the pieces dragged out.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Now it is fully together...
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And it all worked out, just like I'd hoped.
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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Tom Scott
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by Tom Scott »

Dave, I think the biggest accomplishment is getting motivated to go back to work after a big dinner and a movie! :lol:

That think looks bulletproof to me. Unfortunately, now I'll be wishing I had your limited slip every time I get in a dicey situation with my 2182 loader tractor! I do have the split brakes on the Super, but it's crude. Often you just end up transferring the spinning wheel from one side to the other.

Great project!
:beer:
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

You're right, Tom... Split brakes in a traction-limited circumstance usually lead to the NOT slipping wheel slipping.

Split brakes though, still dominate, and limited slip, or diff lockers seem to be more infrequent in tractors... and many guys ask why.

I can't answer for certain, but I can explain my reasoning, based on my observation... and mebbie it'll help others to find the 'real' answer.

In order to do it, I need to add a little bit of red to the paint... aka... discuss another brand... the K-type... specifically, the BX-1800 that is also a regular worker on my property. It starts well, as long as you give the glow plugs 17 seconds, and about 10% on the fuel rack, and when it's cold, once the starter is cranking, DON'T leg go, because it is likely NOT to give you a second try... The K-flavor engine is a really durable workhorse. The BX-series has all sorts of great features built in... hydrostatic drive, disengageable 4wd, hydraulic power steering, a high/low range trans with NEUTRAL (Great for cold startup and warming), independantly shifting front and rear PTO, live hydraulics, 3-point hitch... wet brakes on each axleshaft, and a DIFFERENTIAL LOCK.

The differential lock is both a great idea, and a terrible idea. Great idea, because when you're in a bind, you can step on this magic pedal, and the differential locks. Bad idea, because in order to make the diff lock work, they had to add some holes in the right side of the diff case, and some holes in the right axle pinion, and some diff case space for a sliding collar, to shift some sausage-shaped pins between the two.

The problem here, is that on a tractor, one pulls and pushes heavy stuff, and has gnarly tires grabbing into anything they can... and turning tight circles. In the case of a locking differential, when one side wants to turn a larger diameter circle than the other, and can't, one of two things happens- the tires slip, or something breaks. In the case of the BX-1800's bretheren, that little sausage-shaped pin, being hardened, tends to hang on to life a little bit harder than the diff case and pinion gear holes want, and eventually, pieces start giving up. In the case of the sausage pins, they break, and take precious chunks of metal out of other things nearby, shatter the collar, sending fragments into bearings and such... and the biggest pieces fall to the bottom of the transaxle sump.

Then comes the next problem... There's about 3/8" clearance between the differential ring gear, and the bottom of the gearcase. The sausage pins are about 1/2" diameter. Once the pin rolls between that gear and the bottom of the case, the weakest point gives up, providing clearance for the stronger. That weakest piece, happens to be the bottom of the cast aluminum case.

Which is why, no matter how I try, the case will NOT stop leaking. It's been apart three times for TIG, but thermal expansion, coupled with the fact that it's a stressed housing (axles are bolted to it), means no welding or mystery gak will actually SEAL it... so it gets parked over a diaper.

This isn't to imply that any OTHER tractor would have such a problem, but on my dad's newest BX-series, I've removed the diff lock pedal. Why? Because it has 4wd and a loader. IF he's in a situation where he's got one spinning wheel, and he can't get it out by engaging the front drive axle... and he can't get it out by burying the edge fo the bucket and curling backwards, then having a diff lock is NOT going to solve what is a much more serious issue.

The diff lock's greatest problem with an agricultural/construction application, is simply the circumstance that when things are locked, SOMETHING will become a mechanical 'fuse'. IF there's independant brakes, one can at least attempt to apply a GENTLE transfer to get some motion, and if there's something really bad going on, the brake will slip, rather than... break.

The fortunate part of split brakes, is that they're also useful for turning, easy to fix, hard to break... and last, but not least... if you're going across a side hill, and you start slipping the uphill wheel, a limited slip or locker WILL result in the lower wheel slipping, thus, your tail end will start sliding down the hill. Sometimes bad is a good thing... sometimes good, is a bad thing. At least, with a foot brake on the loose wheel, gives you the choice of poison, right?

I COULD have chosen a locking diff. I COULD have looked for something like that. I'll admit, right off the top, that the Auburn was FREE, and it was close enough in side, that I was pretty darned certain it'd FIT. It could have been ANY OTHER diff, and as long as it was Free, and would'a FIT, I would've tried it, but the choice of limited-slipping vs. locking, I'd still take slip over lock, on account that the diff will be doing much more differentiating in a day's time, than slip-limiting... so I'm fine with this one as-is. It might also break... come unglued... frag-grenade itself... if it does, I'll laugh, not cry... then I'll investigate, learn what I can, then decide what to do.

But I'm still baffled as to why Brand K decided against going to split brakes. They're right there... easy... straightforward... they could've left the stock diff just fine, thicker metal, stronger... and less likely to damage... and why... why didn't they leave a bit more depth under that gear? (sigh). I haven't figured out a way to solve it YET, but I'm contemplating, and may have it figured out... It'll hafta go into the subforum of "Other Colors".
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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Tom Scott
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by Tom Scott »

For the reasons you mention, I don't much like lockers either. They come in suddenly and don't have any modulation. The impact loading can be off the charts if an inexperienced user applies at the wrong time. Digital, all or nothing. Too easy to brake something.

To me the ultimate is limited slip and split brakes. The best compromise of what is commonly available. The only slight improvement would be a limited slip with a control for turning on and off. A "magic pedal" for the limited slip and split brakes!

Anyway, great job, keep it coming!
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Yeah, so the pictures really don't do justice to how much mass I've concentrated in here.
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But they'll hafta do for now, because I'm NOT DONE YET... if you think this is overkill, please suspend your judgement... :lol:


Okay, the next tasks that need to be done:

Make the second wheel...
--Cut the wheel's center out,
--Grind out the debris,
--Locate and tack weld the new center in
--Triple-check, and finish weld it
--Scrub them clea, and apply paint.

Cut all the axle gussets,
--Locate and tack them in place
--Triple-check, and finish-weld them

Make the axle shafts
--Rough cut the right one (left already done)
--Cut the clip shoulders off inside of each axle shaft
--Rough cut plates, bore holes, tack to mandrel, locate and drill holes, cut OD
--Cut axle shaft OD to fit hole
--Assemble in-situ and weld
--Clean up the welds, and apply suitable paint.

Remove the old seals, bearings and races from the hubs, and scrub them clean... clean up the surfaces and bolt threads.
Replace the hub bearings and seals
Make gaskets for the axle tube-to-transaxle surface..

Most of this is pretty obvious, but I'm gonna explain something because I think someone will wonder why...

...Why cut off the clip shoulders??

The Mustang semi-floaters were originally held in by c-clips, eliminating them opens up more depth for splines to act upon, and provides more end-clearance for the axle shafts to move around under load. One might ask why it'd matter, after all, the axle shafts were fine before, right?
The full-floater axle has a hub that rolls on the axle's outer TUBE. It is, for all practical purposes, totally separate from what goes on inside the diff housing.... except for the rotation of the axle shaft.

The axle SHAFT bolts to the face of the HUB. The other end splines, are engaged into the side-gears of the differential.

In the Mustang's semi-floating setup, that shaft not only provided torque, it SUPPORTED the weight of the vehicle, and also restrained the wheel's position against whatever skew arose from driving conditions. The ONLY thing that determined the wheel's lateral position, was the shaft's ability to slip INTO, or OUT OF the side-gears' splines. To keep the shaft from slipping OUT of the axle, the circlip captivated the axle. To keep the axle from moving INWARD, the end of the axle would land against the differential spider gears' crosspin. Remember, when I took the Mustang axle apart, I had to remove the little crosspin retainer bolt, and drive the crosspin out of the differential, in order to get the circlips to release, because the circlips, once installed, slid outward, into a recess in the inner face of the side gears. Basically, as long as the axle shafts couldn't move INWARD, the circlips could NOT fall out. Aside from that, the length of the axle shaft was TOTALLY irrelevant to the differential, and as long as there was a bearing in the axle tube at the other end, everything was fine... if the axle grew LONGER, for some reason, it would simply stick out a wee bit longer at the far end, and nothing else would matter.

In THIS case, however, the axle shaft NEEDS to 'float' in the differential... because the HUB FACE... might move a little. The hub spins on bearings, and it needs a little clearance to prevent it from binding. This is why I'm cutting off the shoulder. Besides, I don't need circlips here... the bolts on the outside of the hub take care of all that.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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SWilliams
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by SWilliams »

The diff lock on the 5000 series cubs has a failure rate like the K tractors and for the same reason, the lock fails and binds between the case and diff and POP you now have a window. I've looked at a few of them because they are not all that much larger than the supers and look similar but are compact tractors really. Out of 8 that I've looked at 4 had holes repaired after diff lock issues, one still was open and one was making very bad noises in the diff area. The rest seemed to work just fine but were apparently made of a gold and rhodium alloy....
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.


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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Yeah, not a great idea. I think PART of it, is the fact that it's on a pedal, and most anyone who climbs on the seat figures that you just stomp on it whenever you need. Not that it SHOULDN'T be that way, but the mechanisms are locks, not clutches... and so they need to be treated as GEARS... bring the wheels to a stop... gently bring them into engagement, then proceed gently.... then stop and disengage...\

But that's just not how outside machine work happens... there's a pedal, stomp on it.

IF they're brakes or clutches, rather than locking pins, they'll survive.

What I WOULD expect, is that this limited slip, without it's springs, but fitted with some sort of actuator to spread the clutches against the housing, would do the same. IF there was some sort of hydraulic coupling that'd go to a little puck-shaped cylinder, it'd be easy-peasy.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

Dave, you're on a completely different level than most of us here... Keep the thread going, I can't wait for the final product.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Last night's episode of Dave's Workshop included some progress on the Loader-Mutt transaxle. I started by cutting the ends of the axles off... where the retaining circlips USED to go.
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Since this is a full-floating axle, the circlips will NOT be used, and the axle shafts NEED to be able to 'float' a little. The place where they'll float, is between the inner gear and the spider crosspin. Since the FAR end of the axleshaft will be bolted to the hub, any lateral change in the position of the hub, or any expansion or contraction of the axleshalft, will cause a change in the engagement of the splines into gears in the middle. Normally, this axleshaft is retained at the gears by that circlip, but there's plenty of extra spline behind, so by removing the unnecessary protrusion, I can slide the axle through the gears, and any change at the spindle end, or any expansion or contraction of the tube or axle will be allowed simply be slipping a bit inward or outward on those splines.
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Next step here will be to cut some plates, bore it to ID, and add bolt holes and finished OD for the axleshafts.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So in order to fit 1-ton spindles to 12" garden-tractor rims, requires some fab time. Cut the old centers out, and weld in something new.

You'll notice that I showed one done previously, and I did that in order to mock-up everything else to SEE if it'd work, and then, to get the axle tube length and tire clearances figured out. My reasoning for not doing both, was that if I did ONE, and found out that it wasn't gonna work right, I could always change my mind. Since I made it past all that safely, it's time to do the second wheel.

When I did the first wheel, rather than fabricating a whole new wheel center, I used a wheel center I'd cut out of a 1.5t railway high-rail truck. Those high-rail trucks use some super-heavy 19.5" wheels, which was perfect for replacing the rusted out 20"'ers on my 1.5t Studebaker farm truck, so I cut the centers out, and welded the original Stude wheels' centers to the new rims. Well, my crystal ball was a bit dusty, I didn't realize that someday in the future I'd find a good use for those 8-bolt high-rail wheel centers, and I cut one a little bit too small.

So I chucked it in the lathe, turned it slow, and built up the OD with some MIG wire, then put a boring bit in backwards and upside down, flipped the toolpost around 180 degrees, threw the headstock drive in reverse, and slowly skimmed off enough to make it nice and round, concentric to the hub bore. Not professional, not optimal, not elegant, but it DID work. The 10EE being a really stout lathe helped, I wouldn't do this kind of swing on anything lighter.
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Once skimmed to OD, it fits.
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Now I need to get it positioned square and laterally true to the rim...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So, it won't be absolute-super-precise, but it'll be plenty close enough for this application... I've installed three carriage bolts in the center, that will place the center both level, and at correct height, to tack-weld in...
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And then apply welds...
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And notice... the valve stem is out. There's still a little bit of Propylene Glycol inside, so I've got the bottom bead unseated, and a little plastic tree wedge shoved in, so that any air or steam has an easy exit.

This is IMPORTANT... welding on a rim causes lots of heat to go to the inside of what might otherwise be an enclosed volume... which can become catastrophic for three reasons... 1) steam expands to 1024x it's aqueous volume, which would easily cause the tire to violently rupture... 2) Tire material, with time, degrades on the inside, and can develop residue which would 'crack' into volatiles and burn... and 3) idiots frequently mount tires with flammable materials, which turn ordinary tires into deadly time-bombs. In my case, steam from the propylene glycol is a problem... flammability not so much because Ethylene Glycol's evap point is over 200F AND it tends to bind rubber debris, hence, quelling ignition.
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So here they are, in situ. After measuring, it appears that my right side tube needs to be shortened in by about 0.385", which is precisely why I only tack-welded it in place. Easy to do, but not tonight. I'm satisfied with all this so far, I'm gonna take a break for a few days, as the doctor is gonna stick a needle in my right knee tomorrow, and it's guaranteed to NOT feel well for a few days at LEAST...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
Posts: 249
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:30 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Davis
Location: Quantico,MD (Formerly from Lee Center,NY)

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

Is he draining it? That will actually feel good if its full of fluid.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

No, it was a PRP treatment... they take whole blood from my arm, spin it in a centrifuge to layer it out, then take the plasma and platelets, put it in a syringe, and shoot it into an area that needs some healing-assistance. In my case, into the area where the quad sutured into the patella... one of two places that haven't improved since December. It was uncomfortable.

I got in a little progress this morning... I lifted up Mutt's back end with chains to the Kubota, and wheel-barrowed it down the south driveway, into the grain-bin...
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This is important, because the ground wasn't too soft and muddy, and it wasn't so cold that I was gonna freeze my hind end off.

the grain bin is 27ft diameter, 27ft tall. Last fall my son and I cut the side open, and over the next month-or-so, I dismantled and pulled out the drying floor, removed the dryer controls, rerouted the 100A feeder into the bin, and to a 100A service panel, added a quad 120 receptacle, a 240/50A receptacle, hung some temporary lights, and slid in a woodburning furnace, so I have a solid concrete floor, wind protected, illuminated, and rudimentary heat. As you can see, it doesn't have much for a door, but the furnace will take the edge off the cold once it's going good... the floor is smooth enough to roll casters, and it won't rain or snow on me. Better than my other buildings (but I'm workin' on that too...)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Time to shorten the right tube to match up the left.
First step, remove the tires/wheels, get the hub off the right side...
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and mark it according to the amount of trimming required to get it in proper placement...

Then cut off my tack welds with the air cutoff wheel...

There's just-enough-weld left to hold it on, so a short visit from the press:
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Now cut the tube back by the appropriate amount (I used the lathe and a cutoff tool)
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And clean up the tube's exterior (old weldment spots)

Then Press the tube back in:
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Since I can't easily see the underside while pressing, I cut a faint 'truth' line into the axle tube to get a good visual on progress...
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And I watched it as I crept in...
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And no, I did NOT intend to go all the way to the line, I intentionally left it wide, as I measured the offset with calipers.



Then I put the whole thing back in the lathe, and turned it slowly, checking for wobble. A few taps with a light hammer squared it up to under 0.001" side-to-side.
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And now put it back in, and measure...
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and it's dead-on perfect.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

My shop is SUCH a mess... (sigh) :roll:
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so today was all about gussets... and yardwork... and helping some friends... and back to gussets...

Half inch gussets... and my vertical bandsaw is EXTREMELY slow at this thickness, so I cheated...
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There's two primary planes of force here... upward (weight on the tractor) and forward (driving force). There's also shock from bouncing. I don't particularly want to put too much on the FRONT side of the axle tube, as that's where the eventual brake-linkage will go...

I also don't want to make th gussets so they'll act as a 'bucket' to hold water, snow, ice, debris, etc., that'll wind up filling up this space with crud... by putting 'em in this way, it will WANT to fall away... I hope anyway...

but that fits up nicely...
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Now again... and
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Okay, that looks, and feels right. A pair of half-inch gussets SHOULD help that poor little Dana 60 Full Floater from flexing under the Mutt's strain, right? :lol:
Attachments
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Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

What the... ???
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Now what in the wild world of sports is that guy doing??
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This don't make no sense...
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Hmmff.... this chap's gone totally crackers... :?
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Two more gussets in... two more to go...
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Left side...
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Right side...
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And it's ALMOST strong enough.

I know, they're not finish-welded. Once they're all tacked in place, I'll disassemble and weld them on the bench, rather than in-situ.

I needed them in situ, though, to get the alignment right:

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My obfuscated goal here, is that, once I have the housings done, I won't need WHEEL WEIGHTS! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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