Loader Mutt Continues...

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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And here's the very first 'real' test... with the diff housing halves together, and the ring gear in place (not bolted, just seated)... of course, it's too big to go in the back door as-is...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

but it looks mean, don't it? :twisted:

Okay, so next experiement- i pulled off the ring gear, and attempted to slip the carrier housing in... just to see if I'd clearanced the OD of the gear flange...
and yes, it'll START, but once that flange is in the right side, the carrier needs to pivot left, like the original carrier and gear did.

Problem is, this carrier housing is right at about an inch WIDER (from bearing face to bearing face), AND... the diff housing's outside diameter and the width of the 'fat' part is such that it cannot fit through the bearing area on the left side housing, to allow it to swing into place.

SO... that tells me that I'll need to bless the case with a chordial visit to the vertical ferrous digester and open up that left side hole a fair amount.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

But wait- that's not all:

Next experiment was to check the pinion offset... the side-to-side positioning of the carrier, to see if the pinion mesh-clearance would be in a viable range... and also... would the differential housing actually WORK in this thing...

To do that, I put the ring gear back on, but removed the bolts holding the diff carrier together... and just placed the big half inside the case. It went in absolutely flawlessly, and the general position is basically perfect- I've got enough room to get some shims in there to adjust my right-left position.

I DO have to cut out the left side, and I THINK... that once I've got it cut right, I can simply move the left hand bearing adjustment cup to a plate that bolts over the left axle tube hole, sandwiched between the left axle tube and transaxle case...

Which would be totally fine.

The only 'gotcha', is that if I hafta assemble this bugger INSIDE the case, I'll need to be able to put the halves IN with their parts preassembled inside the halves, get the carrier bolts started, and then torqued down... with not-much-clearance on the side... but Ithink I can overcome that situation.
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DaveKamp
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Making room

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so I took a little time off to get a new engine installed in my big mower, now I'm back.

So next step is to see if this 7.5" Ford Limited Slip Diff, with IHCC ring gear attached, will actually FIT inside the transaxle housing... and then, find a way to make it actually able to be assembled and installed to functionality.

Which means I need to do some surgery on the housing.

First order of business, is to get the patient on the table, and get it in position, and secured, so that it doesn't squirm while being geently ... evicerated...

That means clamping it down secure and flat. Flat is easy- there's a great big flat space on the side facing down, and it's perpendicular to the differential's axle centerline. I used toe-clamp pars to pull it down to the table... and yes, the T-slots aren't supported, but in this case, they can't... so I'm being careful.

On the other end, there just happens to be a spot where a gap through the casting will accept a bolt, so I put shim-stock under the housing (to prevent deflection or breakage) and clamped that end. It is now secured to the table.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Next step is to get the differential axis aligned concentric to the milling machine's spindle.

BTW... for those who'd ask, this is a Bridgeport BRJ with R-8 spindle taper. It has stock 'pancake' style drive motor, and it's set up driving the middle speed pulley basically all the time. It is driven by an Allen-Bradley 1305 drive type AA12A powered by 240v single-phase, and programmed to go from 0hz to about 150hz. This allows the motor to creep, or overspeed, based on position of the speed knob on my control pendant. It also performs dynamic braking for an IMMEDIATE stop. Typically I don't need the backgear, but today I used the backgear, but I chose to basically to keep everything nice and calm.

I used the Links center finding micrometer and a long ball-nose feeler, tracking the ID of the original carrier bearing outer race hole. The way the micrometer works is simple- as you rotate the spindle, the feeler rotates with the spindle. Hold the boddy of the micrometer so the dial always faces me, and as the feeler's distance to hole edge changes, the dial indicates that change. I adjusted the right-left, and front-back table positions, until the LINKS dial didn't move... that meant my spindle was now concentric to the differential's axis
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Now... to make double-dawg certain that I had a concentric axis, I put a boring bar in boring head, oriented downward, adjusted it out to make slight contact in one position, then I rotated the boring head by hand to see if it was 'tighter' at any position, and the answer was no- it placed a nice, clear scratch in the iron all the way around. I had assured a concentric position.

But in this picture, look at the hole in the casting going to the axle shaft... like the inside of the casing, the ID of the axle shaft housing hole is painted with red Glyptal, and it's rough casting, not a machined surface....
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

I reoriented the boring bar, and extended it out enough so that it would skim at LEAST a LITTLE bit off the ENTIRE hole...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And it's skimming away at the iron...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

and now I've got a nice, concentric hole ready for future design...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Now... the whole reason for doing all this, is because the left side of the differential carrier is FAT enough, and TALL enough, so that it won't actually FIT in a Cub Cadet housing... it wants to occupy the space where the bearing cup USED to be.

So I'm gonna go cro-magnon on it... with a 4" hole saw...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And just hole-saw out the bearing cup landing zone.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Wow... what a pretty piece. Look how consistent the size is... and the fact that I went through the bolt holes all exactly the same way... THAT is concentricity...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Now slipping the differential outer piece in proved that there's enough space for this diff carrier to live... now the question is... will it fit with the RIGHT side of the assembly in the SAME AREA?
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And Survey Says... YES!

Yes, it all fits in there, and the ring gear fits basically perfectly. The right side of the case will use the stock cup, just slightly opened up to accept the larger Ford 7.5" bearing race.

The passenger side (with big lump of diff protruding through) will require a little more creativity...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

I hear...




crickets...
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mrbrown
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by mrbrown »

Crickets here. Hope you can find a way to hold that thing in. Limited slip is nice i guess , if it works. I'm a puller and have done the shimmed fine splines, they hold posi well unless you upset the apple cart a bit at the end of the pull. I've had a welded Chrysler also. There are aftermarkets now with adjustable bearing cups but they are pricey. Good luck and keep up the good work. Mike

Klapatta
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by Klapatta »

The crickets are watching. The internal side of the case is quite thick. It can be milled down flat with the bolt pattern to be determined for your new cap can be added as needed. Carrier assembly within the case should not be a huge issue. It's really a blessing that you have started with limited slip as the more common one piece carrier would never have fitted in. Keep going it's getting closer. 8-)
Could not help but notice your Bridgeport has the reed style clamping. Therefore at one time it had the old style optical readout system
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A hydraulic fluid that is compatable with limited slip will be needed. Any thoughts about what your planning to use?

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BigMike
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by BigMike »

Crickets from big mike cuz if I do anything other than stock it’s going to be a spool :D

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Hee hee...

Yeah, at one time, mine was probably fitted with the optical... it's LONG gone... probably pulled off either long before, or when it got moved from the arsenal's facility floor to the DRMO. Most of my work with it being fairly non-critical, and totally hand-op, not having a readout isn't a serious deal, but I MIGHT put a DRO on it someday.

This LSD doesn't have clutch packs... it's actually got tapers built into the axleshaft gears, with LOTS of contact surface. It didn't have friction modifiers in the axle when it came out, so I'll leave it in HyTran and see how it does.

Mike... I'd spool this thing too... but... I had an LSD, so I had to try. If I were in pulling, then having it spooled would be more useful than running the loader, but I DO hafta be able to turn it tight. First and foremost though, was getting a substantially larger axle, with stronger diff, gears, and splines, and finally, a whole lot more rigid outers, so the axleshaft doesn't get kinked right at the diff splines. that part hasn't appeared here yet, but stay tuned.

On the way into work this afternoon, I stopped by Lowe's and picked up a 5" bimetal hole saw. Wind and storms knocked out power, so I fired up the small gennie and decided to see if it'd be happy running the mill along with rest of the critical house loads... it did fine chewing through the iron...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

It was certainly noisy... but it sure did well.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And that opened up the hole plenty enough for the whole thick section of the diff to feed through.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

It is STILL not possible to get the diff in, and make the abrupt turn necessary to assemble the whole thing on the bench, BUT...

I can easily slip the right side and ring gear in, get it put together, bolts slipped in, and plenty of room for a wrench to get it torqued properly. I BELIEVE that I can get the side gears, plates, springs, etc., all assembled in situ, then drop the bolts through and tighten them.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

With the case properly supported, I can slide it so far to the left, that there's no difficulty turning the carrier without fouling the pinion gear...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Lots of room to push in the crosspin...
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

just all kinds of room!
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And there's the crosspin retainer hole... easy to assemble before putting the side plate, new bearing race cup, etc., in place.
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DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So next steps include:

Pulling bearing races and opening up ID of bearing race cups enough to accept the Ford 7.5" carrier bearing outer races, then giving all these pieces a judicious scrubbing, installing bearings on the carrier, then doing a full test assembly of the carrier, installing that lower race, and determining the position of the left side race, then making the plate that'll close off the big hole I've cut in, and relocating that bearing out accordingly.

Then it'll be on to making new axle outers, trimming and fitting the Mustang axles... and then making wheels fit this crazy beastie.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

Klapatta
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by Klapatta »

I'm assuming that's a pretty huge cap that your going to have to make for the left hand side?
Looking good Dave, real good 8-)

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Yes, Ken- it'll actually locate and bear against the ID of the casting that I cut in the first step... that ID is concentric to the axis of the differential's rotation.

Once I get the right side bearing cup, race, bearing and differential in place, I'll now (lying with right side down) the 'elevation' of the left hand bearing, and from that point, I'll know what it'll take to get that cup in proper position AND... leave room for shims to set preload and gear lash.

I MAY wind up with a flange on that plate being 'sandwiched' between the housing and the new axle tube's mounting surface. If I do, I'll certainly add dowel pins and dedicated (probably recessed socket-head) bolts to hold the bearing plate on it's own, THEN bolt the axle tube flange in place... but of course, I won't know details 'till I'm staring at it THEN. ;-)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
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Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so I've had my hands full with storms, work and mowing for the last two days, but last night I took a moment to gather up the bearing race side caps and get a closer look to determine my machining plans.

I noticed that my two side caps have different casting numbers. After looking them over, I see no obvious differences. I KNOW there's an oil-return hole that's supposed to face down, and there's seemingly no difference in orientation there... Fortunately, I wasn't a total doofus- I took photos before yanking it apart. The RIGHT side cap is 50782 R1 L19. The LEFT side is someting like L20 or L21, so I'll get 'em back on the proper sides (IF that's critical)... if anyone knows the story here, please fill me in.

I cleaned off the bearing shells from the Ford... Timken LM501314, and the bearing LM501349
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