Loader Mutt Continues...

Here is where we can talk about all things Cub and then some. Please follow the golden rule and respect others.
This is a free forum and all pictures posted here are for public consumption. They are free to be used as long as you are not using them in a for-profit manner. Also, any pictures subject to copyright or permissions will be removed.
RandyLittrell
Posts: 40
Joined: Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:13 pm
First and Last Name: Randy Littrell
Location: Kansas City, Mo.

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by RandyLittrell »

I think your Mutt is awesome! I have a loader on a GT and could not be without it. I don't use mine as hard as you do though!!

I am wondering why you didn't put a diff and 30mm axle housings from a super in there and then have some axles made by Strange or something? I know you are a do it yourself guy though.






Randy

davis2
Posts: 249
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:30 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Davis
Location: Quantico,MD (Formerly from Lee Center,NY)

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

DaveKamp wrote:More crickets....
I stop every day for updates. Your knowledge is incredible!

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Well, okay so...

I have a Kubota BX1800... My dad bought it many years ago, it was riddled with hydraulic hose leaks in the loader, he gave what would've been a real steal for it, then proceeded to replace all the hoses, but found not long after, that there was a strange clunk in the rearend. Come to find out that the Kubota transaxle had a foot-operated differential lock mechanism that, while it WORKED, was the engineering equivalent to a pin on a hand grenade... guaranteed that eventually it would break, dropping precious metal chunks down to the bottom of the aluminum housing, which had JUST ENOUGH clearance for the ring gear to turn... UNTIL a chunk of hardened steel pin got in there, which that ring gear promptly pushed through the housing, spilling trans fluid all over the ground. Yeah, and one of the side gears was shot, as was the axle shaft, bearings, and a whole bunch of other stuff. it'd been broken before, as someone attempted to weld the pan, then filled it with epoxy to stop the drip. I wound up disassembling the transaxle, cleaning it all out, and replacing most everything BUT that diff lock system (shouldn't have been in there in the first place), and tried to improve the seal on all that welding and gak in the bottom of the housing. Still leaks :roll: but it starts and runs. It won't, however, out-work the Mutt. Mutt will literally dig circles around it, even without the BX's 4wd.

But I don't need Mutt to lift stuff. The Hyster H50H takes care of everything up to about 8500lbs, anything that requires long reach (extra counterweight and a 16ft lifting boom), and anything on a pallet, as long as there's solid enough ground for it to roll on.

Anything heavier gets lifted by the Clark IT60, but it's a bit too big to get into small places.

Anything that's up to 1800lbs or so, and doesn't need to be lifted high, but needs to traverse soft ground, gets picked up by a forklift attachment on the back of the Allis D17.

Yes, I have a skid steer... it's currently a project-in-process, too... I picked up an IH 4130 that'd self-immolated about a dozen years ago. It had the original Onan reverse-flow cooling opposed twin that was so frequent, and like all the others, it became what all skid-steers became... an engine-driven ashbucket full of dirt, rocks, twigs, leaves, and greasy, oily mud and mouse nests, which after many times of simple overheating, finally had enough of the magic formula to ignite, burn through it's fuel line, and a hydraulic hose or two, leaving it scorched, blackened, and rusty... oh, and with three flat, and one rubberless hulk of steel belts. The gearboxes, hydraulic motors, pumps, gearbox... all still good, and I happened to have a Kubota 25hp 3-cyl diesel out of a 46ft sailboat (a Universal U-25 marinization) that, after just a few gearbox modifications and a homemade bellhousing, is ready to swing into place once I get the last broken off manifold stud out, and some flanges and tubing ready for a new exhaust system)... but truth be told, it won't be as quick as the Mutt.

All these machines will do wonderful work, but NONE of those, will pick up dirt, rock, snow, sand, or compost, and move it somewhere fast... or rake it down smooth, or sort rocks from dirt, or lift up tree limbs to section down... none of them will go places that the Mutt can go without sinking fast into the yard.

And the reason why I didn't steal all those dandy rearend components from a Super... is because... if I had a Super that could donate parts, I'd put a good engine in it, and use it as a Super. I DID, however, have a perfectly free Ford 7.5" out of an '83 Mustang. I did NOT expect it to have Limited Slip, that was just a lucky bonus... and finally, while I could have made investment in all those super parts, I don't think the end result would be anywhere close to what I'll have when I'm done with this exercise... Why stop at 30mm, when I could go to 41mm???

oh... and one more thing...
If I'm successful, then everyone will know not only that it's possible, but EXACTLY HOW TO (or NOT TO) do it. :lol:
If I make a mistake and trash something, you'll know... don't do that! :oops:

The way I see it... I'm doing it... because I can. I'ts really not costing me anything but some shop time, and a little photo/computer time to post it, and in the long run, what I post here will probably be around a whole lot longer than I will... hopefully others will find my efforts to be valuable, and for everyone else, enjoy the view of my insanity through your magical electronic window, laugh with me, and be a vicarious participant, prodding the evil gremlin on my shoulder. :twisted:
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so a couple of days ago, I took some measurements of the ID of my 'clean bore'... the first machining operation I did after indicating the mill concentric to diff carrier axis. I also measured the outside diameter of the housing tube mounting surface, as well as the outside diameter of the bearing cup, and the maximum diameter and depth of the bearing cup flange.

Then I made some simple sketches to make sure I had everything sorted out right, then passed the dimensions on to a guy that does all my laser-cutting work for my company products. He was running a bunch of other parts for me, and included the additional pieces in the burn. I'm picking up a load there this morning, including the 'extras' that'll form the next few steps of this conversion... pictures to follow...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, well, rats. That didn't work out... I fudged a dimension, so having him cut me some replacement paperweights... :lol:

That happens. Remember, Kids-

To Err is Human.

To really, really, REALLY screw things up...
...you need a computer.

and in my case... as 7kw laser gantry that slices through 1" plate like it's butter.

it's a light-saber, but the guy who came up with the numbers (me) was having a Jabba, rather than Jedi moment. ;)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
Posts: 249
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:30 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Davis
Location: Quantico,MD (Formerly from Lee Center,NY)

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

Hopefully it wasn't a special alloy that became paperweight... Were you using steel plate or aluminum?

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

GR50 steel. No big deal. I would cut these myself...

About eight months ago, I came upon opportunity to acquire a CNC gantry with a 100A plasma supply... the CNC controls were vintage 1985, and while still operational, it was in bad need of a control refurb... so it's waiting it's turn in the project list. I'm in process of building a new workshop, which will have dedicated space for the gantry, and I'll fit it with exchangeable platform for router spindle and probably some other ghoulish instruments, but it's new home area simply isn't ready yet. I'd be making much faster progress save for the fact that any hole hin the ground right now becomes a sportfishing waterway :lol: henceforth, it's small, and quicker projects.

I'm certain I'll find a use for these paperweights... ;-)
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

davis2
Posts: 249
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2016 10:30 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Davis
Location: Quantico,MD (Formerly from Lee Center,NY)

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by davis2 »

I'm tired of all the water too! Glad to hear your oops wasn't a costly one, but you will find a use for the mistake eventually. Keep up the good work, and the reports are much appreciated.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Hi All!

Yep, I made it back alive. Running laundry, and between loads, cutting metal for the left-side bearing cup. Didn't finish it, but I got about 3/4ths of the way to finished OD.

Yes, the setup is rather crude, but it's what I had to do, in order to make the cut.
Attachments
plate.jpg
plate.jpg (70.74 KiB) Viewed 52102 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Got the OD cut, and faced flat... then lightly ground the OD and ID to make it fit inside the concentric hole I bored a while ago...
Attachments
20190616_152752.jpg
20190616_152752.jpg (223.79 KiB) Viewed 52095 times
20190616_155334.jpg
20190616_155334.jpg (109.29 KiB) Viewed 52095 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And here it is with the bearing cup sitting in place. It supports the end of the differential housing just dandy...
Attachments
20190616_160138.jpg
20190616_160138.jpg (108.86 KiB) Viewed 52095 times
20190616_160144.jpg
20190616_160144.jpg (61.08 KiB) Viewed 52095 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So... with the cap down against the bearing (and the other side of the diff appropriately seated, with far cap having several shims in place, and a little gear lash available for adjustment, this side cap sits about 0.334" above the side housing mounting face... which is about perfect.

My next piece will fit in that gap, and install over studs in the casting, sandwiched between the new outers and the housing. This piece will be the surface that the cup is bolted to... and the insert below will be well-integrated, so that it cannot move radially or laterally... and of course, I'll have to make it so that it has enough clearance to relocate shims to provide proper gear lash and bearing preload, and I'll have to be able to bolt it down temporarily to get that adjustment correct.

But it's clear now... everything WILL fit, and nicely too!!!

Time for the next plate, setup gears, and butcher a Dana 60FF to donate some spindles, hubs, 'n stuff...
Attachments
20190616_160151.jpg
20190616_160151.jpg (150.96 KiB) Viewed 52095 times
20190616_160212.jpg
20190616_160212.jpg (136.38 KiB) Viewed 52095 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so that insert above, is just 'hanging' in there by virtue of a 'fairly close fit'. Now, to secure it in that gap, I need a plate on the outside, which obviously also needs a hole properly sized for the bearing cup... AND... it needs to be of proper thickness to leave around 0.050" of shim stack.

I found a couple drops of steel, so I took one of my 'doorstops', and centered it, tack welded to it, then torched around the outside to yield a bit more than the 7.750" required to cover the side....

now, due to a moronic overlook of numbers on my part, that 'doorstop, was a quarter-inch shy of proper size on the OD, but the ID was proper for the bearing cup, minus just a wee-bit, as no flame, plasma, or laser is perfect at that thickness, so I made it so that I could hand-finish it to proper... but in this case, I'm using that 'doorstop' as a holding fixture AND... a method of cutting the center of my 'new' plate. By tacking them together, it made a handy way to hold them (gripped from the inside of the cup hole) in the 4-jaw.
Attachments
20190617_174228.jpg
20190617_174228.jpg (877.15 KiB) Viewed 52085 times
20190617_195107.jpg
20190617_195107.jpg (451.53 KiB) Viewed 52085 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

That's one nasty edge... putting a cutting tool to it in a 'formally normal' way essentially guarantees destruction... instead, I use a triangular carbide bit, turned 45 degrees, piercing in on the flat face, cutting across, so as to avoid interrupted cut. it's strange, it's ugly to watch, but it's effective.
Attachments
20190617_202017.jpg
20190617_202017.jpg (145.22 KiB) Viewed 52085 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So there it is, with OD cut to size. See the little 'relief' on the outside edge? That's a sizing mark... that's 7.750. I did NOT cut all the way to final OD... just in case I had to do something with the ID that would offset, the OD still has enough material left to correct a mistake.
Attachments
20190617_203320.jpg
20190617_203320.jpg (127.73 KiB) Viewed 52087 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

After doing that, I took some more measurements, switched to a short carbide boring bar, and opened up the ID about halfway to finish, then faced in a little bit to 'mark out' the area I'll excavate to make room for the cup and some shims...

But this part is plenty hot from all that cutting, and it's time for shower and movie with Nick, so I'll walk away from it for now... more tomorrow, after I get the car put back together.
Attachments
20190617_204639.jpg
20190617_204639.jpg (131.69 KiB) Viewed 52087 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So this recess represents the filler for the 'gap' shown several pictures above... where the bearing cap's face sits ABOVE the filler and axle mounting face.

I'll turn that recessed space in so that the thickness of material inside comes out to 0.285ish... that's the 'proud' height (0.344") minus 0.050" (stack height of the shims. When I'm done, I should have about the same amount of shims total (left and right) available to make lateral adjustment and bearing preload. I have NOT yet set gear lash, I just slapped it together knowing full-well that I'd have to re-do the lash adjustment after installing new bearings anyway, but I know I'm looser than 0.006-0.008"... by feel, I'm probably around twice that... so I'll leave myself plenty of adjustment room.


Now, time to acknowledge and give credit-where due to Brian Miller, who's site has a plethora... a wealth... a veritable cornucopia of information, an amalgation of all things 'puller', and while I'm not a 'puller', it's clear that I've managed to exceed the physical limitations of my transaxle enough to find need to reference his wonderful stash of data. Yes, I didn't particularly follow any of his instructions, but his resources have been well-utilized in my process.

now... to poke a little fun at Brian (whom I've never met, BTW, so I owe him a beer, or a dinner, and a fair chance to slap me for this)...

Brian has overwhelmed his pages with this warning:
IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe.

I'll amend his caveat... If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, you probably need to spend more time using it... or... don't have one in the first place... so either acquire one and learn how to use it, or find someone who has one.

or mebbie I'll just make my own warning, but only post it once:

IMPORTANT: if you're not comfortable using a metal lathe, or don't own a lathe, and don't know how to use one, DON'T GET ONE, as you will soon find that you cannot live without one...

and a vertical mill...

and a 4" grinder, an air-compressor, a Stick, TIG, or MIG welder, a hydraulic press, surface grinder, bead blaster, a die grinder, a pop-rivet gun, a folding brake, a cutting torch, four sizes of chainsaws, two forklift trucks, a CNC plasma table, a carbide tool grinder, a metal-cutting bandsaw, an air-chisel, an oscillating multi-tool, a stereoscopic 6x inspection microscope, an overhead crane, a mag-drill, digital oscilloscope, a valve grinder...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Oh, and I should not here, for anyone crazy enough to duplicate this...

I did NOT shorten up the carrier... the only thing I did, was skim the outside of the housing to allow the Cub ring gear to slip in, and seat against the ring gear mounting face.

I did NOT bore into the cups any deeper... the only thing I did, was open up the ID to clear the Ford 7.5" bearings.

This means that all the depth circumstances you're reading about here, are based on STOCK width of the 7.5" carrier.

So you may wonder... why DIDN'T I?

simple industrial enginering principles:

1) I reduced the amount of critical machining, by eliminating replication. Sure, I could have attempted to gain some more room by chewing down the sides of the differential, those are already proven tolerance surfaces. Digging into them means I'd be investing time and effort into something that's already been done.

2) I KNEW from the git-go, that I'd have to do machine operations on the housing and filler/side plates, which would be intertwined with the dimensions of the carrier, but cutting up the carrier's already-proven machinework would be akin to fighting a multiple-front war. I cut my tolerance risks by keeping the carrier's precision surfaces intact, and simply used THEM as my guidance for the sideplates.

IF, after getting it pseudo-assembled, I were to find that it just-wouldn't-fit, then I would have explored other options, but by NOT doing it, I saved myself the additional committment of resources, thus keeping things happening.

And for what it's worth, there are always some sacrifices made along the way of an experimental attempt. The greatest for me here, is the concentricity of the bearing cups. When I cut these cups, I did NOT have very good fixture accuracy... I lame-A$$ chucked them in the 3-jaw to just get them 'close enough' for the experiment. I knew at the time, that the geometry of the cut was not great... I'm probably a few thou out on true axis and plane. It'll probably work, but it'd be hard on bearings... but it was a sacrifice I had to make for progress. Once I have this all figured out, I will PROBABLY have to acquire another set of cups, and then make a proper fixture, and cut them properly. Mebbie not... but probably.

But all the rest of the work so far, is plenty accurate. The critical axis, is the axles. The housing faces and right side have not been touched.
The left side cup's mounting position WAS affected (I cut it completely out with a hole saw) but I maintained the left side's new position axis by machining a new concentric surface on the inside of left side axle mount casting, and fitting the filler plate (with ID cut for cup) in it's place. Performing the OD and ID cuts of the filler plate while in the same fixture assured that center was maintained. My outer plate will have same ID as the cup, so the CUP will center the filler plate, and the plate I'm cutting now will (because it has same ID as cup) HAVE to keep center... it will just maintain perpendicular axis for the cup.

The simple rule of machining, is that the more machining you can do WITHOUT changing the fixture, the fewer opportunities you'll have to lose control of geometry. Every time you change a part between fixtures, you get an opportunity to introduce geometric error into a part's machining process.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay, so a short hiatus amidst work-n-stuff, I got a few hours today.

Continue with cutting away at the side plate. I'm using a boring bar to whittle away, to create two things here- first, is a center hole that the bearing cup will seat into, and second, is a recess that will get the cup to sit within a sensible range of shimming for the bearing cups. I need enough room to go side-to-side (to set gear lash) and then enough space to shim for preload against the bearings, which probably ain't much, but it's some.

and a kitten...
Attachments
20190622_191229.jpg
20190622_191229.jpg (87.25 KiB) Viewed 52078 times
20190623_122319.jpg
20190623_122319.jpg (57.98 KiB) Viewed 52078 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And yes, that is a long boring bar, and yes, I'm using it to hold the cup in place, inverted... because it takes two hands to get a good picture here... if I didn't, my only angle would be with my hand in the way. The kitten was not harmed in the process of making this, or any component... it's still fine, and playing happily on the front porch with it's siblings and cousins.

Anyone need an emotional support kitten? we have plenty to choose from...
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Here's a view to illustrate about-how-far I've chewed into this plate.

notice that some of the surfaces are mirror smooth, but some have a 'fluttered' pattern.

The smooth surfaces were done with a very sharp, but very short shank tool. The fluttered pattern occurs because the longer bar is vibrating.

The finish is admirable, and in some circumstances necessary, but not automatically 'better' in this case. The cutting action of the smooth surface yields a long, blue curly piece of swarf which can get really dangerous, really fast. A vibrating tool makes chips.

A vacuum cleaner works great for chips. Not at all for swarf.

But I took what I could get. I ran the short bar until I needed more reach. This long bar is a bit more reach than I need, but it's the best option I had for this circumstance. I need to buy some more boring bars.
Attachments
20190623_122324.jpg
20190623_122324.jpg (141.25 KiB) Viewed 52085 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

so here's a quick review, and closer look at what's going on in the ID. When I stuck these two plates together, the one it back had a fairly precise match to the ID of the cup OD. The OD of the back plate was a quarter-inch too small to use it (a doorstop)... but it was perfect for holding a workpiece in the chuck.

I welded the torch-cut plate, roughly centered with that hole. Then I chucked the whole works by that doorstop, then I cut the torch-cut chunk to proper OD (to match the transaxle housing at 7.75ish. I cut the face clean, then cut the recess for the cup, basically, because the cup needed to be 'sunk in' far enough to adjust with shims.

As I was making that recess, I opened up the ID a little-at-a-time, but stopped before getting too close to final ID. Why? Because that's where I'd welded the two together... my last-and-final cut needed to be that ID, because it would cut my welds, thus releasing my workpiece from it's holder.

Once my OD, and recess depth and ID were cut, I finish cut the bore, which left just a wee bit of weld. all I had to do to release it finally, was push a flat-blade screwdriver 'tween the plates, and it was free.
Attachments
20190623_143532.jpg
20190623_143532.jpg (61.21 KiB) Viewed 52088 times
20190623_143847.jpg
20190623_143847.jpg (158.86 KiB) Viewed 52088 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Before I did, I touched the edges of the OD with a file in slow-turning lathe, to cut off the razor-sharp right angles... and now I have the turning done, for test-fit on transaxle housing...
Attachments
20190623_144442.jpg
20190623_144442.jpg (174.95 KiB) Viewed 52092 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

and now that the cup is dropped in, I put the filler plate (that provides center with the big hole I bored in the transaxle) in general position... then slid the whole works into place...
Attachments
20190623_144705.jpg
20190623_144705.jpg (50.05 KiB) Viewed 52096 times
20190623_145002.jpg
20190623_145002.jpg (43.58 KiB) Viewed 52096 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And it all fits nicely.

Next step, is to make everything bolt together, which will be a fun little operation, exposing some of my most-favorite-fitting-up tricks, so stay tuned!
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

And since I'm at a transition point here... (meaning, I know know-for-certain that I can make this all fit and work)... I'll take a brief pause here, and ask for questions.

Anybody? Don't be shy- if there's something I glossed over, and you missed it, you'd certainly NOT be the only one, so ask away, for your sake, and for the rest of the class... :lol:
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Okay... crickets again...

So, next step is to secure the two plates (the filler, and the sideplate) together. Now, to accomplish this, I'll use the cup to enforce ID of both, and the bolt-holes of the cup to sandwich the plates together. Because adjusting cup position with shims will release the two plates, I won't make this the ONLY thing that holds the plates together, but for the moment, it's a good start...

So I'll start by drilling the plates while held concentric with the cup. A little bit about this machine:

It's a Johannsen Radial Drill. I'm guessing it was built in the late '50's, but not certain, as the original drilling head was gone when I got it. The Johannsen drilling head was substantially larger (physically) than what's on it now, but suffice to say, smaller is a 'good' thing, as the chassis not only has an adjustable table height, the column is round, and has adjustable height as well. cranked up all the way, the top of the Johannsen head would have been right through the ceiling of my shop. I fitted it with bracketry to accept a Bridgeport J-head, and if you're familiar with Bridgeports, you may notice that mine is missing some pieces. I acquired the J-head through a buddy down in Louisiana... it was a 'parts' head, that was salvaged off a machine destroyed in the floods of hurricane Katrina. I assisted said friend by transporting a fairly large engine lathe to his facility whilst on one of my company assignments, and rather than accepting cash (which I generally will NOT do, because it's not MY truck or fuel, just my time) he asked me what MY shop needed. The head was full of mud and rust. I put it in a 5-gallon bucket of diesel fuel to break out all the crud, I was able to get it all free'd up, and replace all the parts necessary to turn it into a manual-feed drilling head with R8 taper. One of the important things the head was missing, was a motor and drive sheave. Bridgeport motors are very specialized, and therefore, kinda hard to get hands on without surrendering one's wallet. Instead, I fitted the spindle top with a toothed belt pulley, and made an adapter plate, fitted a 3hp 3phase 1800rpm motor to a toothed-belt pulley that yielded a 3:1 reduction. I used an Allen_Bradley 1305 type AA12A variable frequency AC drive to generate 3-phase from my shop's single-phase 240v supply. I have it set to generate from 0 to 215hz, so my drilling head's spindle speed (in direct drive) is about 6300rpm or so. The head still has backgear, so I can go into a high-torque speed reduction, but between the motor, the drive belts, and the VFD, I have an insane amount of torque available at the chuck... enough to twist off a 3/4" tap with no effort... using the backgear is something I've never HAD to do... ever.

The base of the Johannsen weighs about 3000lbs, and I can release and rotate the column 180 degrees, and use the back side of the base as a very low (6" off the floor) fixed table. I built a motorized rotary table to mount on the back for doing things like... drilling circular hole patterns, or if I put a round-nose end mill in, I could machine a large-diameter ball-bearing race into something. The front table was originally raised and lowered by a hand-crank. I adapted a slow-speed gearmotor and chain drive sprockets, now the table height is motor-operated. The lamp you see is a nice aluminum garden-type unit, fitted with an LED bulb, runs on 120v transformer that provides control voltage power for the machine.

Following pictures you will notice that I'm using NO hold-down hardware... it's simply sitting on V-blocks. The machine is not only variable speed, it has dynamic braking and stops instantly when I remove my foot from the control pedal. For safety's sake, I will tell you... Do NOT do what I do... your machinery probably won't do what mine does... and if I make a mistake, this thing will tear my arms right off... just like the lathe will... :geek:
Attachments
20190623_190129.jpg
20190623_190129.jpg (156.29 KiB) Viewed 52099 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

So the first hole is always kinda important... because it establishes position for every one after. I started by making a 'marking' bore. I used a drill basically same size as the cup's mouting bolt hole (3/8-16 btw) to positively i-DENT-ify the center of that hole. Then I used a smaller bit to drill through BOTH plates.
Attachments
20190623_193351.jpg
20190623_193351.jpg (138.03 KiB) Viewed 52101 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Then I removed the lower plate, and drilled a full 3/8 hole through the top plate. I've dropped a long bolt through to illustrate.
Attachments
20190623_193859.jpg
20190623_193859.jpg (124.49 KiB) Viewed 52101 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

DaveKamp
Posts: 555
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:19 am
First and Last Name: Dave Kamp
Location: LeClaire, Ia

Re: Loader Mutt Continues...

Post by DaveKamp »

Now that's done, I drilled the hole through the filler plate enough to tap it for 3/8-16.
Attachments
20190623_194855.jpg
20190623_194855.jpg (54.22 KiB) Viewed 52101 times
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

Post Reply