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Pulling the engine on my 129, I have the engine loose from everything except the drive-shaft.

At the engine end of the shaft, I see a v-belt pulley with some sort of coupling bolted to it with four 5/16 bolts; this coupling thingie has a slot with a pin that appears to be driven through the shaft.

Is it as simple as removing those four bolts ?

Thanks for reading and all help is appreciated.

the engine should slide forward and come off the shaft. the slot in the coupler usually has wear so you will probably have to rotate to line it up . ive installed a coupler from a 1450 with the rubber flex disc instead of the slotted coupler that tends to break pins and wear the pins and coupler . have to drill a new hole in the driveshaft for the 1450 coupler to work . you'll be happy with the upgrade if you do it

dale campbell wrote:the engine should slide forward and come off the shaft.

Are you saying, once I get the engine loose from the frame, I just slide it forward without having to disconnect the shaft ?

yes. you'll have to lift it also because the oil pan will hit the frame

dale campbell wrote:yes. you'll have to lift it also because the oil pan will hit the frame

Thanks; also thanks for the bit about lifting the engine.

Thank You Mr. Dale Campbell !
The engine is now on the floor.

Bear-

The driveshaft coupling on 1x9 hydros consists of a round disc with a fairly soft steel hub with a 5/8" bore and a notch cut across it. The driveshaft is cross-drilled, and through that hole is a 'spi-rol' pin... it's like a roll pin, but it's not hollow... rather than being a piece of spring steel formed into a circle, a Spi-Rol is a ROLL of spring steel... there's like... 4 turns of spring steel in there, and it's substantially harder than the shaft and the coupling.

It works, but unfortunately, wear occurs such that the 'groove' winds up having a wear spot in the bottom that becomes a push-and-turn type locking pin, which is great for race-car hoods, but bad for that spi-rol pin- eventually, the drivetrain slop, when combined with the K-single's firing pulses, and a light hydrostat load, will shatter that pin.

When you put it all back together, don't put it back with that coupling the way it is... either replace it, or redesign it. If you hunt around, you'll find several different ways to make that coupling much more durable... including, but not limited to reworking the pin and coupling, converting the coupling to a stub and putting a 'rag joint' (like what's on the hydro end) in it's place, or putting your existing rag-joint up front, and putting a U-joint on back, or making a complete collapsing driveshaft assembly from PTO powertrain parts...

Because if your front coupling was worn enough to 'hang up' during removal, then it's gonna self-destruct not long after you put your rebuilt engine back in.

Here's the hard-core solution:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=7397#p43266

And here...

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=7397#p43278

The other driveshaft setup (flippin' rag to front) appears on other forums... and while it's socially inappropriate to cross-post, I posted to another site long before this one existed:
http://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/message ... 1174188461

If you do a web search for

Dave Kamp cub cadet mods

you'll find a PDF file called DK IHCC mods... download it and take a look- I put all the appropriate part numbers'n stuff in there.