Can I Replace Front Engine Bolts on 129 with Studs ???

[BearKiller]

I have just managed to remove the engine from my 129.
The front two bolt were --- well, to be nice I will say difficult; I am really looking forward to trying to reinsert them.
Is there any reason why I can't use studs in those front holes ?

Is there a trick that I am missing ?

Thanks for reading and all help is appreciated.

[DaveKamp]

Hi Bear!

You CAN use studs instead of bolts in the bottom of the K-series engine... and it has several advantages, but a few disadvantages.

Advantages:

As with ALL studs in a blind hole, you have the advantage of total engagement. This means that the stud goes to the bottom of the tapped hole. A bolt will only go in until you either run out of bolt length, or you bottom the bolt (and it's not tight). This means the load is distributed in ALL the threads of a blind hole. It also means that if the first few threads of a hole are marginal, you still have plenty of grip from the rest.

Next, it allows you to have a hard stud, but softer (or different) nut material. There are times when this is desireable, and sometimes very necessary.

Finally, it allows you to attach other things (like ground cables) on same location.

Disadvantages- when you set the engine in, you will not be able to maneuver it around as much... because it can't slide-or-rotate... of course, unless you thread the studs in from below AFTER engine is in place. Furthermore, when moving the engine around, the studs are subject to contact with other surfaces, and sometimes damage when slipping through holes, which can screw up the threads.

I used studs on the K301 that I 'overbuilt' for my Loader Mutt 17 or so years ago... at same time, I used the QL-series 'isolated' cradle, and I'd welded a bridge brace between the cradle rails to keep the factory mounting bolts from working loose, and it did work very well. I prefer studs in blind holes in most cases, but all circumstances vary.

[BearKiller]

Hi Bear!

You CAN use studs instead of bolts in the bottom of the K-series engine...

Thanks for confirming.

When I first typed the question, I was thinking studs in the front two holes on account of they are in such an inaccessible location, and just using the stock bolts in the easily accessible rear positions; then, after reading through what you said, and letting it soak in, I decided that studs in the rear holes as well would be far more advantageous than trying to line up bolts from underneath.

Studs it will be and in all four positions.

[JMotuzick]

Just jack up the opposite side with a floor jack under the axle. Use a ratcheting box wrench easy as acan be... I use aChain fall and checkstand. Once the jackstand I reach underneath. Using the chainsaw to the top of the engine, the engine is then ready to come out.

[DaveKamp]

+1 on what Joe says- when you jack up the axle, the other side swings down, providing access. I don't recall exactly how much clearance the axle requires to swing... so look closely, and don't leave so much stud sticking down that it limits your axle articulation. I use an air-ratchet, because I'm... er... lazy... impatient... or both.