Posi-Lock Rod ???

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BearKiller
Posts: 180
Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:27 am
First and Last Name: George Riley
Location: Poverty Springs KY 2018 Wettest State in the Nation

Posi-Lock Rod ???

Post by BearKiller »

The kohler book has two torque specs for the rod-cap bolts , one for posi-lock and one without.

My old rod has bolts that thread into the rod; the replacement has studs and flanged nuts.
Neither has the locking tabs that I have seen mention of.
The Kohler manual gives no clue as to how to differentiate between Posi-Lock and non-Posi-lock.

My question is how do I tell if I have a posi-lock rod?



Thanks for reading and all help is appreciated.

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dag1450
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Joined: Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:16 pm
First and Last Name: Dave Gibson
Location: Chalfont, Pa

Re: Posi-Lock Rod ???

Post by dag1450 »

The posi lock memo I saw from Kohler for k series 10-18 and magnum 10-16 says posi lock has nuts that are oiled and get torqued to 260 inch lbs.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

BearKiller
Posts: 180
Joined: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:27 am
First and Last Name: George Riley
Location: Poverty Springs KY 2018 Wettest State in the Nation

Re: Posi-Lock Rod ???

Post by BearKiller »

dag1450 wrote:The posi lock memo I saw from Kohler for k series 10-18 and magnum 10-16 says posi lock has nuts that are oiled and get torqued to 260 inch lbs.
Thank you so much for confirming my best guess.
Since my slightly-used replacement rod has flanged nuts, I decided it must be the Posi-Lock.

I lightly oiled the threads.

The book says New Posi-Lock = 260 inch-lbs and Used = 200 inch-lbs.
Seeing as my used replacement was new to my crank-shaft, and I had rather be a wee bit over-tight than not tight enough, and there may be slight discrepancies in my Chinese 3/8-in torque wrench, I split the difference and torqued the cap-nuts to 228 inch-lbs. (in case anyone is wondering, 228 in-lbs = 19 foot-lbs)

I started at 120 and increased in 12 inch-lb increments.

The reason I am doing this at all is on account of the notorious oil-dipper that is cast onto the rod cap broke off as they all eventually do and the resulting lack of lubrication caused the rod to break.
Amazingly, this seldom damages anything else; maybe one out of ten will knock a chunk out of the piston skirt.
Although I had a good piston and rings already attached to the rod I got, as far as I can tell, no harm came to the piston.

Before I tore into the engine, when I described to the local Kohler expert how the engine just died as if I had shut it off and then spun over effortlessly with zero compression; he said "the dipper broke off, causing the rod to break. Get yourself a new rod and if I am wrong I will pay for it; I have seen hundreds in the same shape."

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