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My quietline
Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 9:03 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:29 am
by cholloway
WOW... Even if I had, I would NEVER
admit to watching The Brady Bunch!
Did you have a "thing" for Marcia? ( I had to Google the spelling on her name since I was not a fan.)
Re: My quietline
Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 1:36 pm
by Dave C
Dag,
IF you end up with trouble with getting that harness to work i should have all new plastics in stock along with ends if you need to solder on a few new ones. alternatly i have new harnesses under my desk.
dave
Re: My quietline
Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 7:35 pm
by dag1450
Colin. ....of course I thought she was cute! If a boy didn't this...well I won't go there.
Dave .. thanks. A Harness in stock... that's impressive. Is Mike m. the same as "front porch electric"? I quickly looked for those plastic plug ends and found nothing. Do you know we're they a brand of auto manufacturer? Or IH specific? I found the key switch plug wip but it was about $15 for what I need was just the plastic. I bought a harness from eBay ($40) that was complete and had light switch, meter, key switch 2 fuse holders and light harness. I would just use that one but it doesn't have the loom. Mine has the loom in perfect shape so I will use mine. I'm thinking I will buy a new PTO switch mostly for looks and if I remember....it's brutal to get to later if mine goes bad.
Re: My quietline
Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:56 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:38 am
by Tom Scott
dag, dag, dag.... I've lectured for years, and you don't listen!!! Dielectric silicone grease should be used on every connection. In the Permatex aisle of every auto parts store (or should be).
Amazon link:
https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-22058 ... 196&sr=8-3
Dielectric grease, meaning it does not conduct electricity, is counter intuitive. The reason you want a grease that doesn't conduct is that way you don't accidentally conduct electricity to somewhere it shouldn't be, no matter how much grease you use.
The grease does not impede the flow of electricity from metal to metal. Microscopically the grease all gets pushed aside when the two mating terminals meet. I've even used my digital ohmmeter on the most sensitive setting and can't detect any resistance from any connections slathered with it.
Bottom line: All electrical connections should get a wipe of this grease before putting together. I also put some on the wire before crimping, but you want a really good crimper so the greased end doesn't pull out. Finally, since it's silicone, you don't have to worry about any plastic connector damage.
And Marcia did have it going on!
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:44 am
by Tom Scott
"Packard 56" connectors I think is what these all are, they came in different terminal configurations.
I think this is the 5 terminal that is used on the ignition switch. Just for show and tell, likely cheaper on eBay:
https://smile.amazon.com/Delphi-Metri-P ... 47&sr=8-22
Looking good!
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 5:35 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 7:17 pm
by JMotuzick
Dag
Does the key switch have a wire hooked up to the black wire? Tipicly this short 6” wire is blue. This is for the headlights or for the electric lift. It should be long enough to plug into the fuse holder, then a short wire to the switch and out to the lights.
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 2:44 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 9:15 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 8:45 am
by BigMike
I don’t think the speed control is the only thing that has a loose nut,
Re: My quietline
Posted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 9:08 pm
by dag1450
What Mike...no welding comebacks? ..like "nice ground clamp to nothing" or " your ground won't work that far away". That pic made it in partly for you. I can't win
Re: My quietline
Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 11:09 am
by BigMike
dag1450 wrote:I can't win
Do we need to have a pity party?
Does that high heat paint give a better buzz?
Re: My quietline
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 9:12 pm
by dag1450
Has anyone opened up a light switch? I thought for sure with how clean this one was it was in perfect working order. Not so...I need to hold it all the way over for it to make contact. Figures the one in my eBay harness also don't work. These things are pricey. The housing seems like cast. I will find a way to see what's going on. Then I can jb weld it back together. No ground clamps needed for that welding.
- IMG_20200130_202903500.jpg (2.93 MiB) Viewed 19388 times
Re: My quietline
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 9:40 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Feb 01, 2020 10:02 am
by Tom Scott
dag - Good job on the autopsy and resurrection. It looks like the contacts are high quality with a high copper content, so I would just keep operating the switch you haven't opened up, it will likely "self clean". If it won't self-clean, then you know you can still go in and do the same as you did with this one.
Good work!
Re: My quietline
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 5:15 pm
by dag1450
Thanks. Yes it seems high quality but I guess when things sit outside... well it's not good. I used a quick set jb for the first time and it's great. Starts to set in about 5 minutes.
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Re: My quietline
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 9:57 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2020 10:26 pm
by davis2
Dave, looks good!
Re: My quietline
Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:05 am
by Tom Scott
dag - Looks really nice. But... Unfortunately your Amp gauge looks to be bad. It should be centered at "0", unless you have current flowing through it in that pic!
Re: My quietline
Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:24 pm
by dag1450
Nuts! Why do you have to be so observant
I tested it and it still works.. just not centered. I need to fix this so I can tell Tom that everything is just fine
Re: My quietline
Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:49 pm
by tc429
dag1450 wrote:I think I'm almost ready to assemble the dash and tower. This little yellow strip was hanging over my head for the past year. I didn't get fancy, I thinned down the paint and used a foam brush. It's basically hidden because the side engine covers but does show if you look for it. The dash tin cleaned up pretty nice. I have a couple nos tins....but wanted to try my hand at painting. Let's just say the painting was the easy part
IMG_20200119_185259399.jpg
IMG_20200126_161651575.jpg
nice work- love seeing old things renewed, and this thing looks absolutely new
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 3:16 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2020 12:30 pm
by Klapatta
We should all be aware that as time marches on more of these smaller items are becoming NLA. There are folks out there doing what they can by stepping in with their efforts to sustain a decreasing demand for such items. CCC will continue on it's path of phasing these smaller items out. They have kept these machines in the supply chain for over 35 years but that time has come and is going. Best I think to contact the seller and inquire if something other than a reproduction can be had that would better suit what you expect. This was not misrepresented in any way and the seller will stand by any incorrect, incomplete, or defective shipments from my experience. I think Ray Weaver could be a big help with that item as well.
Good job with the project. My .02 with old with harnesses is that they are what they are. That said the plastic coated wires like yours stand up much better than the earlier rubber coated and loomed ones. Those were made from left over spools from the fifties handed down from the auto makers once the improved plastic coated stuff hit their market. Also 16 bucks for a connector and some terminals is an outrage, that is one fifth the cost of replacing the entire harness.
Good thread. Good job. Keep us posted.
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2020 7:12 pm
by dag1450
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:35 pm
by Klapatta
Standard Packard 56 terminals can still be had from Napa.
- packard terminal.jpg (19.8 KiB) Viewed 19299 times
The Brillman Company,
http://www.brillman.com carries a wide size assortment.
These were in common use well into the 90's for washers, dryers, ranges etc.
They can be crimped with a bit of effort using using a standard Thomas and Betts type crimp tool but the professional will want the correct crimp tool for the job.
- 3510.jpg (54.18 KiB) Viewed 19299 times
Re: My quietline
Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:38 pm
by DaveKamp
I guess it's kinda late, Dave, but one thing you COULD do to help make the switches last longer between work, is to fill that cavity with dielectric grease... fill it up so full that there's no room for air, and there'll be darned little ability for moisture to get in, hence, the contacts will not oxidize much...
Most of the time, I find ignition switches fail where they'll crank and start, but not run... that's because the ignition RUN contact has worn out... but the ignition START contact is still good. Very frustrating. Always handy to have a jumper wire with alligator clippies to bypass the battery to coil when that happens.
Re: My quietline
Posted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 2:38 pm
by dag1450
Yeah good idea Dave. I was going to try that with a shrink tube once on the trailer wiring but I was running low on grease. Anyone ever try generously coat a joint then shrink tube? Sounds good to me! Will the silicone grease liquify as it gets heat applied? I have been using that idea of "filling with grease" on sandwiching of steel. With assembly of ...anything really...coat both sides with grease then mate together. This should preserve as you said. I did this on a couple mower decks and the Kubota. On the Kubota I have a small dirt and dust line at every ajoining body panel and frame fitments. I like the look cause I know it's in the name of preservation.
Re: My quietline
Posted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 6:51 pm
by JMotuzick
Dag
I don’t think I’ve ever used it on shrink wrap, it does work well on stake on type termanal ends. I’ve used it here and don’t know of a issue. I used it on both the built in shrink wrap type and “dry duty” terminal ends.