My quietline

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

I think I'm done this aspect of the dash and tower.
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127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

Wow, all that great work and you're keeping the busted ammeter gauge? Come on dag, step up! Get on eBay and buy a properly working gauge!

Then, open up that un-centered gauge, I bet there is a spring that jumped off. Likely two springs, one on each side of the scale for centering the needle. Would be interesting to see if it could be fixed.

BM should be along any time now to help me beat on you! :lol:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

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BigMike
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Re: My quietline

Post by BigMike »

Me? :lol: :lol: :D

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Yes...I made an executive decision. I'm using the old one. I took the glass off but could not access the inner workings without distroying the whole thing. Im not sure if the face was glued or just stuck. If I could have gotten the face off I could have switched faces with my faded one. It still works and the tractor is a compilation of old used parts so I'm fine with it. If it becomes a problem I can swap it out. I will look for a nice one when I get to Ray's next...as long as it's under $10. ;)
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

Klapatta
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Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

It could have gotten pegged at some time in it's life due to a dead short throwing off the calibration. When these gauges are constantly bouncing about while running it's common that the glued on counter weight fixed to the bottom side of the pointer has fallen off. These were never intended to be disassembled. The outlook for getting one back together without marking up the bezel is dismal.
I'm not a huge fan of the replacement ones, they are cheaply made imported reproductions. This kind of stuff is simply not made in America any more. Even the high end Stewart Warner classic style gauges come from Mexico. Better that one finds a good used gauge I think. When used ones turn up on eBay there's usually a reason why. Ray would be the go to man. One that is perfectly centered correctly and that does not move at all when tapping on the glass is probably Ok.

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

I had the glass and metal ring off. Where I got stopped was the printed face....it just wouldn't come out and I couldn't see why so I put back together. All this talk about it.... maybe I will go open one that is no good and what happens happens :roll: I'm trying to stay what I think is period correct. Yes...im my own correct police :lol: .I'm not sure how many versions came on quitelines? Right now the dash is set aside till install. That will be after it warms up in the garage where the rest of the tractor is resting.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Ok..when you go at something with no fear things move pretty fast.lol. so I got it apart. The studs that come through the back are glued and sealed. I didn't know but figured they must have had something to do with holding it together, so a swift blow on the work bench allowed the whole inner workings to come out the front. Once inside..and again nothing to lose I found the adjuster. It's a magnet glued to the back that pivits on a small plastic stud. Once unglued I can manually adjust the front needle with the slightest move of that magnet. Now that said...my magnet must have shifted on the one i installed. I totally think this could be reassembled if one wanted to adjust one. I won't bother.
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127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

Klapatta
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Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

Why that looks simple enough to open up and recalibrate. Can you glue the magnet back in it's proper place?
It's the older style with the circular metal crimp that are a bear to open without wrecking them
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JMotuzick
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Re: My quietline

Post by JMotuzick »

Dag
I tried to save a light switch from a 149 like you
Did with your QL. After reasonably it still didn’t work... I tossed it into the steel bucket and ordered some toggle switches. Thanks for the tip though.

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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

dag1450 wrote:
Tue Feb 25, 2020 8:02 pm
Yes...I made a bad decision. I'm using the broken one.
I fixed your sentence for you! It's a meter! If it doesn't meter properly, it's broken!
dag1450 wrote:
Sun Mar 01, 2020 8:37 pm
I'm trying to stay what I think is period correct. Yes...im my own correct police
Is broken period correct? :lol:
dag1450 wrote:
Sun Mar 01, 2020 9:23 pm
I totally think this could be reassembled if one wanted to adjust one. I won't bother.
Agghh! So close! Now you know how to fix it, then you pull up short!
Next you'll just be painting half the tractor because that's the only side you see while it's parked! :lol:
dag1450 wrote:
Tue Feb 25, 2020 8:02 pm
I will look for a nice one when I get to Ray's next...as long as it's under $10.
"Nice anything" and "$10" aren't likely at Ray's! I definitely want to be there on that day! :lol: I'll kick in $5 just to embarrass you to do the right thing!

This is where I need BM to do a Super-Fly off the ropes and pin dag for me! Ok, I'm done. I'm out of exclamation points! (last one...) :D
:beer:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Yeah whatever... sorry Tom, BM is on my team now and he just tagged me!! In my book if it still moves it's not broken....it's out of adjustment. My whole life is out of adjustment so this feels right at home. Anyway I found a true friend who is very supportive of my efforts! Thanks again Big Mike!! The new meter you MAILED me looks fantastic! ;) I will always cherish it. Mike my only problem is...I want to keep the old one in just for spite now. Apparently Tom lays awake at night dreaming up one liners for my meter. Thanks again!! :lol:
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

Klapatta
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Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

"is broken period correct? :lol: "
That is the funniest thing I have heard on any of these groups in at least ten years!
Talk about going off the rails, jees-
But getting back to business now I can't get over how simplistic the newer style gauges are compared to the older ones. And the case sections are molded from recycled plastic too.

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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

Thanks Ken! This is just the gift that keeps on giving!
dag1450 wrote:
Mon Mar 02, 2020 9:26 pm
In my book if it still moves it's not broken....it's out of adjustment.
Still moves, not broken.gif

Yeah, I wish everything was like it used to be with high quality Stewart Warner gauges, just a standard round size, not a custom one of a kind.

On a forum upgrade note... This new software let me drag and drop that gif from my desktop right into the reply "message box" where you type. Then below in the "Attachments" tab you click "place inline". Then type above or below image as you see fit. This makes adding pictures even easier!
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2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

Klapatta
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First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

Yeah. That was a good one. Notice that the older IH gauge and the quiet line gauge are both made by Rochester Instruments.
I do not think that particular IH gauge ever found it's way on a Cub Cadet and was from something older. At least I have never seen that exact gauge on any Cub Cadet myself. Could it have come from the amp gauge add on package?
Here's a couple more.
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DSCN8866.JPG
The gauge on the left is a genuine IH narrow frame gauge. Manufactured by Stewart Warner. I have had one of those apart and they are very sophisticated.
The gauge on the right is one of the reproduction import knock offs. Thumbs down. Junk.
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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

So much for being serious. I'm going to have to make a citizen arrest... and put your green axx on probation like u do me. How did you get a picture of me driving to work...man first you lay awake thinking about me.. now your stalking me. What's next. At least I have BM. Thanks again for the sweet gift.
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127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

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BigMike
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Re: My quietline

Post by BigMike »

Dag, you're very welcome. I knew that Tom was graying at a tremendous rate and figured if I didn't do something we would never recognize him.....if we ever meet in person :lol:

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Ken the couple I have opened up have the black metal trim ring. I'm thinking..or guessing that the black painted is a softer metal than the chrome. The rolled or crimed edge is not 100% so that allows me to get started with a gentle screwdriver and go around about 5 times...ever so softly. Getting it folded back is harder than opening.
So the one you had open was completely different inside?? I'm not an electric guy....but it looks like the electric passes by a needle Tang thing without touching it. Yes it looks pretty darn simple...if you know what your doing...lol. how the magnet affects it...I have no clue.
I think the magnet could be glued back in place no problem after an adjustment.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

Ha! Did BM send you another one that is off center? I'm so confused...

dag, it wasn't so hard to find you when you're driving around on 3 wheels! :lol:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

Klapatta
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Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

It's quite clear by now that the entire matter has degraded into a state of hate and discontent.
Maybe everyone should just go out and get a real amp gauge.
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But I will try to answer your question Dave.
A long time ago I opened up a broken one. It came from a narrow frame. It had the chrome ring and was exactly like the one I pictured on the left. The short end of the story was that it had more gitchiwappers inside than the one you opened up. Now it had the same part number as the one as I showed, 378424R91. Yet now from what I'm seeing here that is the same part number as the black plastic one you have apart. So it could it be a redesign that retained the same number?
Then there's this old IH gauge I showed that has a part number 360053R92.
THEN, to throw dust into the wind there's knock off gauge that has a part number 360053R91.
So that makes for 4 with 2 completely different styles sharing the same part number. :?:
Now I know why I like volt gauges better, thank you for reminding me :roll:
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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

Hey, just so everyone knows, this is just dag and me fooling around. We text often so sometimes our joking here can be misunderstood. He even hooked that "new meter from BM" up with a load on the bench for the picture just to show it off center! We put a little too much into clowning around at times! ;) I am guilty of pigging up a good technical thread on meters, so I'll stop with the antics now! So, back on track...

Ken, interesting history of how much variation in just one part number of gauge. And the unfortunate decline in quality...

Yes, both equipment and automotive moved away from ammeters in favor of voltmeters as it was much cheaper to use the voltmeter. In particular, the wiring is much harder for a ammeter because ALL the equipment's current has to be fed through the ammeter (in series), vs a voltmeter that can be applied across the circuit in parallel. Much smaller wires and don't have to divert the entire load through the dashboard. The voltmeter should also be cheaper to build as you are working with just a fraction of the current, just a the meter burden rather than all the current used by the tractor/car/truck, etc.

What really burns me is idiot lights. In particular the "Amp" warning light on the Cyclops is really tied to a voltage sensor. The voltage sensors go bad, but the replacements work fine and are fairly accurate. This warning light is useful, but it should have been labelled "Volt"!

If you really want to know what's going on with the electric, you really need both an amp and volt gauge!
:beer:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

Klapatta
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First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

Yeah, I'm just kidding too. I know you guys were playing around. And it all got pretty darn funny. When I opened the link and saw that aftermarket gauge off by +10 I nearly gagged on my Skoal. And I was left no choice but to join in and stir up the pot. Could not help myself. I'm sorry. Well no not really. :lol:
But after sleeping on this I realized something about the two gauges that are so unalike bearing the same part number. They are made by different companies in different time frames.
The earlier chrome crystal example was made by Stewart Warner.
The later black plastic case type was made by Rochester Instruments.
So I could only but assume that when the quiet line series was on the drawing boards a decision was made to seek out a new contractor for the gauge. Cost reduction would seem the most likely reason for such a decision. There were times I wondered why such a drastic change in styling was made and always liked the look of the chrome gauge better.
Now this can only lead to my next question just to stir the pot further to see what rises to the top, if I needed a new amp gauge for a 147 back in 1979 and went to my IH dealership they probably stocked or ordered in the black plastic style.
Since this is more or less an undocumented revision does that make it correct on that 147 in the eyes of the purists? I think that it would have to, they share the same part number. Companies upgrade or switch vendors all the time without the end user ever even knowing about it.
So anyway good jive session fellas and I'm sure Dave will continue doing a great job.
Oh by the way, I have had ignition and headlight switches apart too trying to fix them. I'll pass on that the next time around.

Klapatta
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Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

The correct current replacement amp gauge can be had directly from Cub Cadet under part number 925-3141. $39.98.
This gauge is made by Faria Corp. This image was pasted directly from the Cub Cadet on line site. CC Specialists shows this as the correct gauge as well, that image ( not uploaded) shows it with it's CCC shipping bag.
925-3141.jpg
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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

Alright Ken, your humor was so dry I couldn't be sure, so well played! Meanwhile BM is just running around fanning the flames on all fronts!

Wow, impressive if that Faria gauge is still "Made in USA", that would make me happy to have it even if the style is different from "as built" from the factory. I think it is a solid argument of correctness that if that is now the Cub specified replacement gauge, then it is correct. $40, man dag will never spring for that, he'll just keep hanging onto "still moves, ain't broken"! :lol:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

Klapatta
Posts: 1115
Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:25 pm
First and Last Name: Kenneth LaPatta
Location: Rockingham VT.

Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

A comparable Stewart- Warner gauge from Summit Racing is 41 bucks, and most likely it will be made in Mexico. I do know that the mechanicial style water temp gauges are. My first and lasting impression of them is that the quality is not what it used to be.
The Faria gauge is clearly marked as made in USA making it well within the right price range. Faria is and has been most commonly associated with high end calibrated instruments along with other makers such as Simpson and Fluke so I myself would not quibble about the price.
Rule of thumb is you get what you pay for.

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