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Is there a reservoir for the steering fluid? Mine whines a lot.

I’m not sure what model you have, but most use the rear end as a reservoir. There most likely a dipstick to check the full level.

Checked that and it read full on the dipstick. What else could be causing the whine? Seems to be worse when you first start it up. It’s on a 1864.

Cold oil will cause a wine too.

Maybe a stupid question, but is the fluid the proper cub fluid? (Hytran) Is there a filter, and is it clean?

1864 uses the same pump for lift and steering. While it is running does the whine change when you use the lift? Does it get worse when the lift is fully at the end of travel up or down? A stuck relief valve can make them sing pretty good.

Just started doing it after mowing season. I’ve not changed fluid or filter this year. The fluids looked foamy or milky on the dipstick.

Cubhusband wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 13, 2021 1:23 pm

The fluids looked foamy or milky on the dipstick.

That's a problem. The fluid should be a light pink, not foamy or milky. Milky indicates water intrusion or the wrong fluid.

Change the fluid and filter. Make sure to only use Cub or Case-IH Hy-Tran fluid. For the filter be sure it's the proper hydro filter, not just some "oil filter that fits". Hydro filters are built different and generally have finer filtering. I like Wix brand myself (Wix "51410" or NAPA Gold "FIL-1410"). The factory Cub filters got cheaper with thinner metal cases, but still fine if not man-handled.

With fluid that bad, you should likely change it twice. Change it once, run it around for at least 15 minutes, then change it again. Expensive, but cheaper than wrecking the hydro any further.

If the fluid has been changed in the last several years, I'd have to question how the tractor is stored (I'm thinking rain/snow getting into the fluid). These things can go quite a while without fluid changes if stored properly. Generally just need to change the filter every 100 hours and top off if the fluid looks clean.

The fluid level should be checked with tractor off, cold, and on level ground.

Thanks. I’ll try those things and see what happens.

I don’t have an owner’s manual. Do you run the tractor after changing fluid to fill the filter? How much fluid does it hold?

I would do the full fluid swap like Tom said I would use the tractor a bit. Run the lift up/down drive in circles front/back maybe even more then the 15 minutes. I would say an hour or two. I agree with Tom and only use the wix/Napa 1410 filter. The hydros use about 2 gallons of oil each. A gear drive uses the same oil and about a gallon each. I am cheep though and use the universal tractor hydro fluid from TSC it runs about $30-$40 for a 5 gallon bucket compared to about 60-80$ a gallon of the stuff from cub or caseIH also I believe that your ford new Holland dealer sells the same hy-Tran as well, all part of fiat now…. While talking hytran I’ve used Deere hygarud in the past when a few buckets landed in my truck when I wasn’t looking….

Tim - I'm glad things worked out in your "snow blade topic", but I wouldn't operate that tractor at all until you get that fluid changed. You're hurting that hydro with each moment that engine is running pumping that sludge around back there.

When you change the fluid and filter just top off to the full line. It can be a slow and frustrating process as the air had to come back up from the same dipstick hole. I generally use a small funnel and only pour about a cup at a time, sometimes lifting the funnel slightly to allow the air to rise. Too large of a funnel can impede the air leaving.

Once full, start and run for about a minute, then shut down. Let is sit for another minute and then check the fluid again and add any that the filter used up. There is plenty of extra volume so the amount it takes to fil the filter isn't a concern for initial start-up.

In rears that are real bad, even after changing twice the fluid might look bad again in six months. You might have to change again then if that's the case, but that is a more extreme example. Joe's suggestion of driving around for an hour, making circles in both directions, driving up and down hills has merit, as the higher temps and a bit of sloshing are more likely to rinse it clean before the second oil change.

An 1864 should have a vent on the top of the rear casting. If not it’s a great time to add one! Even so go slow so you don’t make a mess!

Joe - All of mine have vents, but they still tend to want to push air back up through the funnel. Every time I get tricked into filling the funnel too full for too long, a big bubble pushes up through the funnel and splashes Hy-tran at me! Filling the stupid things is the worst part of the job! I fill, let the funnel go empty, repeat... repeat... Seems endless while you're doing it.

I bought a small 12v pump that I’m going to try. The hose on one end goes right down the fill tube.

Just be sure the pump doesn't have any crud in it. Likely "made offshore", even brand new can have bad stuff left behind after manufacturing. I'd pump some hydro fluid into a waste pan first just to flush it out. Other than my concerns about contaminants in the pump, I think it's a good idea!

My abundance of caution is because hydrostatic transmissions depend on very close tolerances and very high pressures. They should ideally be kept surgically clean. The small contaminants are actually more dangerous than large ones.

The drain plug in the rear housing was froze. Tried everything to get it out. Didn’t want to break the housing. That’s when I decided to pump the fluid out from the top.

Pull the rear cover!
The back plate will need to come off and then the rear cover is held on with 9 bolts. Behind that cover is the 2 gallons of oil. I would use a can of brake cleaner to get as much of the nasty white goop off the side walls as you can!

Will the brake cleaner run out also?

Should I have a new gasket on hand in case the old one is bad? Do the bolts have to be torqued?

How do you get the height adjustment handle out of the back plate so it will come off?

Cubhusband wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 24, 2021 12:20 pm

Should I have a new gasket on hand in case the old one is bad? Do the bolts have to be torqued?

You absolutely need a new gasket.

Any suggestions where to get a new transmission gasket for a 1864? Need to remove the rear plate to drain fluid.

Any Cub Cadet dealer anywhere. If getting it shipped to you, I'm partial to Messicks: https://www.messicks.com/

Cubhusband wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 24, 2021 12:49 pm

How do you get the height adjustment handle out of the back plate so it will come off?

Just keep turning it counter clockwise. Take the tunnel cover off and you'll see what it's screwed into.

There’s a nut on the end of the rod . Don’t know if I can get it off.

The nut is left hand thread, VERY easy to damage them if you don't know that. It's job is to keep you from unscrewing the adjuster and then needing to take things apart to get to it. Once you have it apart I like to add a new vent to the case. The factory ones never seem to vent fast enough when filling so I find a nice thick spot on the top of the case, Drill and tap for a common 1/4 20 clean out the shavings. Now you can fill and night fight the burping fluid. Once done take a 1/4 20 bolt, put an o-ring under the head and tighten it in place just enough to squish the o-ring. You need to remove it to fill or add fluid but it also lets the OE vent do it's job the rest of the time.