Penetrating Oils

[Paulf]

Did anyone else see the article in “The Best of Farm Show” about penetrating oils? The article said that Machinist’s Workshop “scientifically rusted” a bunch of nuts and bolts and tested different penetrating oils to see which worked the best to loosen the nuts. From the magazine, the results look like this:

Nothing ------ 516 pounds
WD-40 ------ 238 pounds
PB Blaster------- 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench------- 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ------- 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone Mix------ 53 pounds

For the past several years I’ve used PB Blaster to loosen all the rusted bolts on my Cub Cadets. Looks like in the future, I’m going to try the home brew ATF-Acetone mixture. The article indicated it was a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid if anyone else is interested in trying it.

[albie]

Paul I've always had the best luck with Gibbs on my old hit-n-miss engines and it is atf based

[Jlaws]

The results for WD-40 doesn't surprise me , but the fact that Liquid Wrench was better than PB Blaster did . I've used both and thought PB was better than Liquid Wrench , although I've never had my elbow calibrated ....LOL
I too will have to try the ATF- Acetone mixture . Isn't Acetone highly flammable ? I sometimes use heat if the penetrating oil doesn't work .
Paul , thanks for the info .

[SWilliams]

Yes Acetone is highly flammable. The Acetone/ATF works by capillary action. The Acetone thins the ATF enough that it can then penetrate farther into the joint than the other blends which are thicker. You can actually use many other lubes as well as ATF.

[ksanders]

I'm with Jess. I have both PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench on the shelf now and is the only 2 things I use. PB seems to work way better on everything I've done. I've always heard WD-40 is overrated as far as eating rust and quit using it after I saw how much better PB worked. It's also pretty cutting torch safe from what I've seen. It catches fire, but doesn't blow up or get bad at all.

[Jlaws]

I wonder if toulene , or regular laquer thinner might work also as a substitute for Acetone when mixed with ATF . Anyhow they all would have to be stored in a airtight container as they all evaporate and all are highly flammable . I've also wondered if butyl ether would loosen rusted hardware? I've accidentally seen what the stuff does to paint...LOL
Its also a solvent and I happen to have a couple of gallons , I may have to try it out in a well ventilated area.

[J Hayes]

WD - 40 wasn't meant to be a penetrating oil it is to disperse water Hence the W ater D ispersor

[ReicheP]

WD - 40 wasn't meant to be a penetrating oil it is to disperse water Hence the W ater D ispersor

That's partially correct.

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/

http://inventors.about.com/od/wstartinv ... Fourty.htm

[Scott C.]

My mostest favorite is Aero Kroil. In fact I need to get more.

[Scott C.]

I found this can at a flea market (it's empty but still smells like the old stuff).
My dad used to get this from US Steel and it worked on anything. I imagine it was probably toxic in some form or caused brain damage...... Hmmmmm.... could explain a few things.
I used to use it a lot.

[Jeff in Pa]

My mostest favorite is Aero Kroil. In fact I need to get more.

Kroil is my first "go to" followed by the 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF ( it's a favorite of the kawasaki triple crowd since the aluminum cylinders love to corrode fast to the steel studs in the case)

All I use WD-40 for is final honing on cast iron and cleaning my sharpening stone.


Jeff

[Racenitro]

the best I ever had was WHITMORE's WIRE ROPE lubricant that was used at the mines on their wire ropes. Came in big drums and also in spray cans.

[mikeyb]

Anyone ever try "Fluid Film"?
I have heard some good things about it but never tried it.

[VScott]

I was sent a message from another garden tractor forum that I belong to that said


ABSOLUTELY DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC ATF TO MAKE THIS FORMULA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The chemical reaction is said to cause noxious fumes that will knock you out immediately. Be careful with the home brews!

[Tom Scott]

Just another opinion here, but in my comparison, Kroil seems way better than PB Blaster. I ran out of Kroil, figured I would buy PB since it was available locally. After not getting the results I expected, I ordered the Kroil direct from them ( http://www.kanolabs.com/ ). The regular stuff is Aero-Kroil, best for general loosening of the impossible, and the Sili-Kroil is if you want some lubricant to hang around when you are done. It is expensive, but a can lasts a long time. Worth every penny when you need it. I don't know of anything better you are going to buy ready to use.

For the real bad stuff, I am glad to know of the acetone/atf formula. Thanks for the tip.

[junderwood]

Just a thought on Kroil. It is expensive, but if you have friends and can split it buy the gallon can. I got a few of the empty pint cans from work and then a friend and I just split the gallon and refilled the pints. You could use any metal can and even put it in one of the refillable spray units that pump up with a compressor. It seems to be about the best deal.

[wdeturck]

I like the Kroil but it don't like me. I bought the 2 large spray cans and I was working on the M&W mower it fell over and got its self jammed that the can emptied and all I got out of it was a large puddle on the floor. The other can disapeared when i drove my truck with the door open. Went back to PB Blaster.

[mmzullo]

Leave it up to Geezer to waste 2 cans of Kroil. At our old shop we used to use CRC. Good stuff but haven't seen it in a while. I think I'm going to try the ATF/Acetone. Just be careful if you use heat. let it off gas a little(Chumlee) before you apply heat. I'm sure the acetone will disperse before the you apply heat to let it soak in.

[Scott C.]

You can buy Kroil locally if you know where to look.
Places like United Refrigeration, Grainger etc. usually carry it. Just pick a can off the shelf.
I haven't had to buy any since moving to PA so I have to hunt some down, soon.

I need it. We're changing motors in Andy's Ranger.

Gotta swap out some parts like the new timing belt and some other stuff and put the other one in.

[JMotuzick]

Mike
Granger for the CRC products.

[Jeff in Pa]

You can buy Kroil locally if you know where to look.
Places like United Refrigeration, Grainger etc. usually carry it. Just pick a can off the shelf.
I haven't had to buy any since moving to PA so I have to hunt some down, soon.

I need it. We're changing motors in Andy's Ranger.

CIMG2064.JPG

Gotta swap out some parts like the new timing belt and some other stuff and put the other one in.

CIMG2067.JPG

I purchase my Kroil at Seneca Arms Co in Green Lane PA. Yes, I get it at a gun shop. Works good for removing powder residue too.

Jeff