This is just like the old coffee shop, which was like the old coffee shop down the street. Pull up a chair, sit down and enjoy some good discussions. Please, no political, religious or racial posts.
Last fall I got a great deal on a 4' x 8' Triton aluminum tilt trailer. I just tried to load the 125 with the 1A tiller attached onto the trailer but the rear wheels don't touch
pic of trailer
I'm going to go with a 7' length as that be more than the overall length of the 125 and tiller. I was thinking of getting 2 x 8's Will they be strong enough?
Sound good? Thanks
edit--- I know I could back up to bank, then load it but I'll be rototilling a coworker's mom's garden and unsure of the yard there.
Jeff that's what I use for my ramps. I've loaded both into my truck and my trailer and never had a problem. And most of my tractors are weighted up pretty good.
I had 2x10's and one of them broke, so I went to 2x12's; besides being a little stronger, that extra 2 inches width comes in handy -- sometimes I don't get the ramps exactly straight (and a 2x10 is just under 9.5 inches wide). For the extra one-time cost, it's worth it.
Cub Cadet Originals -- Ayuh! (and a couple of 124's, 125's, and a 1650 -- Yep!)
I broke a plank at chapter 34 plow day and was debateing buying 2x12x8ft treated plank but was worried they won't hold up. My 982 is 1400lbs., what do you think? thanks
With the crap they sell today for dimensional lumber they have to many knots in them. I would buy a piece of 4' x 8' outdoor plywood and cut it into 4 one foot strips and use them.
If you want a plank that will not ever break, use engineered lumber. A 1 3/4" x 9 1/4" microlam will last near forever. More money but you will probably never need to replace them.
"a man that started in to carry a cat home by the tail was getting knowledge that was always going to be useful to him, and warn't ever going to grow dim or doubtful"
If you are going to use dimensional lumber I suggest using 2x10 or 2x12 and find a yard that has #1 southern yellow pine.SYP will flex more before it breaks than SPF or Douglas fir.I have used 2x10 SYP for years and never had an issue.If I still hualed tractors in the bed of the truck much I would add some steel angle to the edges to stiffen the ramps even more.
I use 2x10 x 9'.I play with lumber a living and picked out 2 knot free ones.Primed them with oil base primer,added wire lathe for traction,these are heavy.I had them for 2 years now.Used them to put a 127 with a tiller and a 127 with a thrower with 2 sets of wheel weights on the PU.Just in case I have 2 6x6 blocks of wood to shorten the span.Always make sure you have your ramps attached securely to the truck or trailer you are using.
I would go 8' long just to make them less steep. I personally would go with rough cut oak if you want them strong and you can find a mill to cut them for you. I have an old set of 2x8 that are about 20 years old and are about half rotten from sitting outside but still supported my 782 with no problem. I never ride the tractor up ramps anymore. I always walk beside them.
I used 8' 2x10's with a 2x4 support lagged to it.
For safety I used some eye bolts opened up to accept my chain and it can be wrapped around a hitch ball or hooked to the frame/hitch (too bad I don't use this little feature very often).
The ramps are cut down to fit in my bed with the ramp ends attached.
I also walked the ramp with an electric staple gun and peppered the surface with staples for traction.
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We don't stop playing because we grow old....
We grow old because we stop playing.
Scott I like your Idea on the extra support on the underside. I would suggest some cross cleats though for the rainy days. or muddy surfaces.
Although now long gone I made a set for my X FIL Van I used 1' wide X 1/2 " strips spaced evenly to the top. never had one spin off with wet tires.
OH yeah the tractor didn't have much weight on it because a driver on it didn't fit too well going in a van door.walked it in at idle and shut off the key to stop.
Scott , thats good ideal on the safety chain that keeps the ramps from being pulled off the end of the tailgate , but I don't know how much faith I'd have in those 2 cables that hold the tailgate up .
I have heard of them breaking , coming apart , where there attached the eyelets on the end of the cables . I haven't had it happen to any of my trucks , but have heard of damaged tailgate when it does happen .
I see a lot of cub cadets while going down the tracks , its a shame I can't pull over and ask about them .
Yeah, I guess the cables could break. It's a new truck, I hope not, can you say lawsuit? I knew you could......
The old Ford is going to be my new cub hauler anyhow and I'll never have to worry about cables again.
Flat tires? I can't see any of those staples causing a flat. They do do a nice job of taking the "smooth" out of a board.
Ford used to brag about a one ton rating on the tailgate.
the cables have broken twice on my 1996 silverado--rusted right thru in the middle where they fold when tailgate is closed. I now take tailgate off for any heavy loading.
