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Hey guys, i installed some LED lights on my tractor tonight, got them wired up and did a wire wiggle test to be sure everything was good, lost everything unable to get back up. hot wired my blower and tractor light to get the snow off the driveway, where is the fuse located? i have one fuse that i know of on the left side of the battery box but that one is good, im really frustrated at the moment. went to the wiring diagram section but was unable to find a diagram for my 2086. im stumped

Joey - Just one fuse, for any of the 82 Series and Cyclops. Without looking at the diagram, I think you will find that the battery feeds starter solenoid directly, then the power is directed to the fuse that protects the rest of the tractor. The power should leave the fuse and go to the key switch which directs the power to the three circuits (start, run, and run with lights, as well as to the pto).

Bad grounds are a constant enemy, but if you lost both the pto and lights, is is probably not a bad ground as they are grounded separately. At this age, these tractors are notorious for corroded connections.

You really need to go through all the connections and clean any corrosion mechanically (file, wire brush, sandpaper), chemically (plastic safe electronics cleaner), then most importantly, use dielectric grease on every connection. Push the dielectric grease up into the connector then put back together.

Since you lost multiple circuits, start with the connector on the back of the key switch. I just worked on one with a friend that was so corroded we had to replace the key switch and connector.

Check for 12V coming from the fuse to the key switch. Don't trust a visual on the fuse, as sometimes you can't see when they have blown. Keep checking for 12V as you work through the system. Until someone (hey Steve Williams!!) comes up with a wiring diagram for you, use the 1882 diagram we have here, it will be the same except for the ignition feed instead of grounding the magneto with the key switch.

If you blew a fuse, you either wired something wrong or inadvertently touched a hot to ground while working on it. Don't increase the fuse size or you will melt wires next.

Let us know how you do.

Here you go, 2086 wiring. There are a couple connection points in the wiring for the lights, the most common issue is losing the ground. Easy way to test which you lost. Take a test light, turn on the headlights and touch both light terminals. If your light lights when you touch the terminals but the lights themselves don't come on, you lost the ground wire. If you don't find power there, you lost the battery feed from the L terminal on the switch (Blue wire. feeds both head and tail)

Now if you lost ALL power, no starter/lights/clutch, look at the Red wire (battery feed to switch) and the red/white wire (power from switch to tractor) The B terminals LOVE to rust as they are brass plated steel.

FYI most of the Cyclops series are wired very similar on the tractor side. The engines may be different.

Thanks for uploading the schematic that will come in handy
i am suspecting the key switch as Steve has said. I ran back to work last night and grabbed my test light, its a power issue, i grounded the circuit and nothing happened, but i can put power to it and light it them up. now i should state that my lights on the blower are tied in to my tractor lights, i have a relay powering the blower lights and the tractor lights are the trigger to switch the relay, so when i lost tractor lights i lost all my lights I am wondering if its not worth rewiring and starting fresh im sure being my blower tractor the water from snow dose not help things. so i figure if i rewire everything is getting coated in dialectic grease for good measure.

thank you guys.

Joe

I have rewired and replaced those dam% connectors and switches so many times I don't any longer. I buy a new switch, then wrap and solder on new wires that have the correct wire colors. Then a dab of liquid electrical tape and self sealing shrink wrap. I go about 10 inches from the switch and install weatherpack connectors. I also like to go through and replace every connector I can with new ones and I've soldered those and painted them or used shrink tube as well. I HATE wiring issues.
http://www.weatherpack.com/

I also do the relay updates that CC did on the 2182 as it helps on the other models as well.

problem solved, kinda embarrassed about this but here goes. i took my side panel off and touched the wires on my key switch... the lights came on. wtf....talk about a son of a gun moment
so alittle emery cloth and some contact cleaner is in order now but, i figured i better fess up and let you guys know what i found!

Corroded key switch connections... On a Cyclops... NAAa never happens...
When you start having "Turn the key, hear a click but no starter" you will discover that is a rusted battery terminal on the same switch...
Or the battery light on with the engine running....

Been there, got the shirt....

Clean them and goop them with some sealer to keep the water/air away. Or solder the wires on.

What Steve said, but I prefer dielectric grease as "sealer". You can't use too much, pack both ends of the connector to keep moisture out of the crimp area as well.

Remember, the point of dielectric grease is that it covers and protects the metal but won't conduct electricity to where it shouldn't be and doesn't interfere with current flow on metal to metal contact.

Pull the connector off, fill all the holes with dielectric grease, reinstall. Can also smear some on back of switch to prevent corrosion on the terminals where they are riveted to the switch. Fluid Film is also a good dielectric grease for areas that are easier to spray into.

Glad it is all fixed!