1811 back from the dead

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Wed Oct 11, 2017 9:12 pm

Had a great time at the Zagray Farm with Joe M last Sunday. He showed me around and gave me the history of the farm. I encourage anyone within driving distance to attend one of their shows. We traded some parts so now I can move forward with greasing my ball and shaft. :lol: Hopeful to get the engine back in the 1811 over the weekend.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:15 am

Hopeful to get an engine back into the 1811 this weekend. I do need to buy a battery, is a good rule of thumb to get the highest cca that will fit?

Also, how much tension should be on the governor spring when the engine is off? I have looked in the manual but couldn't extract that info. I waded through the literature about the flyweights and my basic understanding is that the spring buffer the inertia of the weights(??) At the moment it seems to be really taught. I can move it with my thumb but it takes some effort.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Wed Oct 18, 2017 6:04 pm

Sorry...I haven't been avoiding you...I just didn't have an answer. Without the throttle cable hooked up the governor and spring go back to that "toggle" thing bolted to the intake manifold, and they all should move very freely. But Yes that spring from the governor to the intake bracket will create some resistance once hooked the throttle cable. In the manual they discuss setting the spring I think.
Let see some pics...u owe us some pics of this now famous 1811 ! ;)
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Sun Oct 22, 2017 5:39 pm

image.jpeg

Dag1450, No apologies needed. Most people do avoid me though!! I will go ahead and connect the throttle cable and go from there. Some progress today..I hooked up a new battery to the project and turned the key...I heard the hour meter start to tick so that was good but starter didn't kick or anything. I am sure I have an open lead somewhere so I was not really surprised. But there is a 3 pronged male connector on top of the engine and I can't see where it goes. I am sure it will be a big "DUH" and embarrassing when I figure it out. I really didn't have much time to dedicate to figuring it out earlier today, might try and get some shed time tonight! I will get some pictures posted this week.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:16 pm

The other end of that wire harness is probably down in the frame rail. It can't go to far away as it has to reach up there and it "Ys" out of the main harness.....then the rest continue up to starter and headlights. I think there is also a wire that goes to the engine for ground. I forget where it hooks but again the harness should tell u. I want to say one of the side tin bolts.....idk.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:13 pm

So within minutes of my last post went to the shed and actually used my glasses and a flashlight and found the other end of the pigtail. Dag1450 you were (are) correct!Made the connection, turned the key and......nothing. :( The hour meter ticks and the low engine light comes on as before. Put a screwdriver across the solenoid and still nothing. I tested the continuity of the connection (I think ??) The only slot that did not make the needle on the tester move was the white one coming from under the tin that I think comes from the stator, but would there be if the flywheel isn't spinning and doing the electromagnetic thing?
From here going to look up the wiring diagram to see what I can figure out. As always thanks, and suggestions for direction always appreciated.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby JMotuzick » Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:40 am

If the solenoid/starter is not engaging the safety circuit is not made. Make sure 12v coming from the key switch through the clutch and PTO switches, makes it to the small wire on the solenoid. These wires could be Orange or red. Look over the wiring diagram. Think of it as plumbing, watch what happens as you change valves (switches) to change the flow of water or power. Both the clutch and PTO switches are prone to failure, you had told me it sat outside before you got it. My guess PTO.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:41 am

Thanks Joe, I have had issues with the key switch previously. And, before the great engine seizure in the spring the pto would engage when the switch was flipped up but only for a few seconds so that is suspect as well and lastly I think that this has a safety switch on the clutch/brake as well. That one is covered by a rubber boot that is worn, and I think that the metal ear that is supposed to depress the switch may be out of position as well.
Thanks for the direction..again! I will eliminate those issues one by one and report back.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Sat Oct 28, 2017 8:27 pm

Update on the 1811. Kind of a big DUH moment :oops: I discovered that I had not finished torquing the engine bolts down after I slid the engine in. I am thinking that that may have caused some grounding issues?? But..I think I have the no crank issue narrowed down to the PTO or key switch. I held the brake switch closed with some heavy tape, and with the key in the run position I can jump the solenoid and get the engine to turn over, enough to see there was spark in at least one of the cylinders. The tin is a little tight on the other side so I couldn't get the plug wrench on and didn't have the to mess with it. I Have a new key switch, pig tail and PTO switch ordered so hopeful for some internal combustion later in the week.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:02 pm

image.jpeg

It ain't pretty but we have combustion! I would like to say it was because of my superior problem solving skills but I think it came down to dumb luck. My plan was to pull the PTO and test it with the multimeter. I had messed with the key switch last night and the leads were kind of hanging in a bunch. I noticed the tape had fallen off the brake switch, when I depressed the button to put more tape on it the engine jumped! Scared the crap out of me! :o Sure enough the red and black leads of the key switch were touching. Put a jumper wire between the two leads of the brake switch, then put a jumper wire with alligator clips to the red lead touched the black lead and the engine cranked over again. Sprayed a little starting fluid in the carb, touched the black lead again and it cranked, started and chugged for about 20 seconds!!!!
And just to be sure this means that it is the key switch not the PTO switch??
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:58 pm

Doing a great job....keep at it! I think in one of your pics i see the brake switch "depresser"? Why do u use tape? Does your brake peddle not lock down...using the factory lock down lever?
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Thu Nov 02, 2017 1:44 pm

I used the tape before I smartened up and used the jumper wire. I thought it may have been this switch causing the no crank issue because it looks like the tab on the pedal shaft may not be depressing the switch plunger enough to complete the circuit because the switch tests out ok. I have received the new switch and pto switch and hopeful I will get those in this weekend. Will let you know.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby BigMike » Thu Nov 02, 2017 5:01 pm

Pedal holder downer?.....all Cubs have those?
Dag you are a genius.....well, maybe not genius but smarter than a stump :D
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby BigMike » Thu Nov 02, 2017 5:02 pm

You are making progress Eric!
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:19 pm

Lol.....that's what I was gonna call it.....but I know I would never hear the end of it. I'm tired of always being trampled on :cry:
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby Jlaws » Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:53 pm

Eric , glad to hear your replacing the brake pedal switch , that is definitely one switch I wouldn't leave jumped , especially if you leave the key in it and have young children .
Now the seat switch is a different story . I usually replace them but I might have a couple that PO's have jumped out and still are . :roll:
I see a lot of cub cadets while going down the tracks , its a shame I can't pull over and ask about them .
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby BigMike » Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:58 pm

dag1450 wrote:Lol.....that's what I was gonna call it.....but I know I would never hear the end of it. I'm tired of always being trampled on :cry:

Trampled?....can we have a pity party?......1,2,3 awwww :lol:
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Fri Nov 03, 2017 5:50 am

:cry: Oh yeah Mike....."the jerk store called..... their running out of YOU" :cry:
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby BigMike » Fri Nov 03, 2017 8:06 pm

But you're their best seller :lol:
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Fri Nov 03, 2017 9:15 pm

:lol: :lol:
Sorry Eric....thanks for letting Mike and I have some fun.
Back to the original program!
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby BigMike » Sat Nov 04, 2017 8:49 am

Eric knows, it’s all about levels.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:07 pm

No worries! I enjoy the banter. Did you all know that a new key switch won't shut off the engine if it is not properly grounded??? I bet you did, and now I do too! Yet another DUH moment in the reassembly the 1811. But the engine starts consistently and now that the key switch is grounded it shuts off too. Put the brake switch back in and the "pedal holder downer" is working as it should. Messed a little with the throttle and governor but couldn't get it right. Will check the manual section and see if I can figure it out.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:17 pm

Should have included this observation in the last post. Old key switch was a 4 position. Turn back one position for lights if I recall. New switch is a 3 position and there is not a dedicated light switch as on my 1650. Will the lights just be on all the time? Not a concern at this point just wondering for the future?
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby dag1450 » Mon Nov 06, 2017 9:32 pm

Yes 4 position is correct. Seven connections on back I believe.
I don't think light on all the time would be a Problem if u don't mind.....but did u buy as a replacement for the 1811 and it was the sellers screw up....or did u not know exactly what u were looking for? I would send it back if possible.
It's so exciting that it's running. I'm sure the manual goes over the governor set up....
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:49 pm

The old key switch and the new each have 5 connections on the back, 2 white wires twisted together to one post and 2 blue wires twisted together on another. I believe I got the part # from partstree and then ordered from ebay. I think the fault lies with me in not doing enough research before I ordered it. I am not going to sweat it much right now, the engine runs and the key turns it off so I will consider that success at this point. I still have to get the throttle figured out and send out a relief valve to be rebuilt so the lights are not a hot issue at the moment.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby Tom Scott » Wed Nov 08, 2017 10:02 pm

Eric - If you want another opinion... Get the right key switch; the lights on the key switch works well, no reason to jury-rig something different. Why cobble it together over a few dollars?
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:16 pm

Thanks Tom, I agree. There are a few other things to manage before that though. There is a relief valve that is like old faithful, getting the throttle, choke and governor to play nice, getting the PTO back on, transmission fluid change. The proper switch is short money in the long run.
Eric
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby Tom Scott » Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:30 pm

Just keep plugging along, you're making progress!
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby eplummer » Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:25 pm

Hello Again,
At the point where the 1811 will start consistently and shut off with the key. But my memory is fuzzy on the details of where/how the throttle and choke cables are routed. I looked in the manuals but can't tell from diagrams. Can anyone post here or through PM a picture of the correct way they should go. Also when I thread the transmission fill tube into the hole it is loose. Is there a trick to this?
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Postby JMotuzick » Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:48 pm

Teflon tape?

The cables seam to be different on everyone I see! Just gota wing it! Someone else may have other ideas.
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