451 blower shave plate

[TractorDan]

Just repainted my 451 Blower in preparation for the winter, and can't remember if the shave plate/cutting blade is mounted on the inside of the shroud or on the backside underneath the shroud. Parts diagram aren't real clear....and help would be great!

[SWilliams]

Outside, Carriage bolts go through from inside as well. If you don't have the correct length make sure you cut them off. Did you also check both gearboxes for wear?

[TractorDan]

Thanks Steve. Yes, several moving parts were replaced due to wear. However, the previous owner maintained it very well. Hopefully, we get enough snow this year to see if the this 2-stage was worth the time and extra $$ to rebuild. If not, it will be & look brand new sitting in the garage until next year.

[SWilliams]

If your used to a single stage you will find the 2 stage throws farther and works the tractor less. The only time I don't like the 451 is in WET snow (I mean the stuff that is slush with water running out of it). Then the self cleaning of a single stage would be nice.
Take your time setting up the blower as well. I like to adjust the feet and shave plate with the blower mounted. I set the feet all the way up then adjust the shave plate so its level and on the floor. Then adjust the feet so you get the clearance you want. Make sure you have enough weight also. The 451 is HEAVY, chains, loaded tires and wheel weights are not overkill on the tractor.

[TractorDan]

I have wheel weights, 50 lbs. per rim. Also, chains for the turf tires. However, I'm thinking about using a pair of Goodyear Terra tires for the winter, thus eliminating the chains. I have an asphalt driveway and noticed in the past that the chains, using a plow, would damage some areas of the driveway...it's old driveway, to which I'm not looking to replace. What do you recommend for loading the tire?

[SWilliams]

I loaded mine with RV antifreeze (was on sale cheaper than washer fluid at the time). Between them, two link chains on turfs, the steel cab plus 50 pounds a side in iron and another 100 pounds on the back along with my f@t a$$ in the seat and it just pushes. As Bryan says you won't have much traction in reverse, just too much in the front that it has to drag around. Make sure you have good rubber on the front, steering with the blower down can get interesting.

[Tom Scott]

Dan - My view on this is similar to that of Steve and Bryan. You will need more weight than you might expect, and hills and or non-paved areas are the hardest to get traction on. For myself with a Super and a 450 blower, I am looking at about 500 lbs of rear weight for an extremely steep asphalt driveway and a less steep cross country traverse to my neighbors gravel driveway. I have only ever used turfs with good two-link chains, but others here have pretty much universally agreed that any other combo will not give as much traction as turfs with chains. The key to not injuring the asphalt is to have enough weight that the chains don't spin on the driveway. I have had minimal driveway marking on the asphalt from the chains.

Wheel weight and loading the tires is your best first strike because the tractor does not have to carry any of that weight through the bearings. I like RV antifreeze for loading the tires, and I don't feel the need for a tube with RV antifreeze. RV antifreeze generally has some anti-corrosion additives and is not corrosive by nature. It is also different than regular antifreeze in that you don't add water to it. Use it straight from the jug.

As Steve points out in particular, steering suffers with the blower lowered into operating position. One trick on a sharp turn is to briefly lift the blower just off the skids to put the weight on the front tires, then lower it again after the steering responds.

[TractorDan]

Thank you to everybody that posted a reply. I gather there is some wisdom in your replys. Or as I say "GOOD ADVICE COMES FROM BAD EXPIRENCE". I will load the tires and add more weight. I got stuck twice susing a Zero turn with a plow, dead stuck needed a pickup to come get me.

Also, is a Extension kit needed to attach a 451 blower to 2082 SGT. The manual says yes, but I can't seem to locate the parts. More help need?
Thanks, Danny

[TractorDan]

After reading the post twice to digest the details, I must ask How do I get Liquid in the tire, and 26x12x12 tires, about how much can be added to each? Is there a specail tool that is used to connect to the air stem?
Danny

[Amigatec]

Here is how i did it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkJKTGg70-U

[SWilliams]

Yes you need the lowering kit. Without it the blower will not set down properly. There are a couple folks in the vendor list who have/make the kits.

Loading the tires :
With a tube you're stuck using a slow method that takes a custom air chuck that lets air out while you pump in the fluid. Basically a funnel, rubber tubing that will fit the valve stem diameter and a smaller tube that air can escape through.

Or if you don't use a tube, Pull the tire/rim off the tractor. Break the bead down just enough that you can pour the fluid in, then inflate the tire to seat the bead and set the pressure.

There were plans on the old site of a tire filling tool made from pvc pipe and a few fittings. Not sure if anyone saved those or not.

[Amigatec]

I used a pump that came with a jug of Tire Slime, remove the valve core, slide the hose over the stem and pump away. I had to stop a few times and let the air out. It took 15 minutes per tire.

[Tom Scott]

26x12x12 SGT tires hold just over 11 gallons each; for RV A/F (propylene glycol) you will get 8.5 lbs/gallon x 11 gallon = 93.5 lbs per tire.

After searching what seemed like most of the internet, I settled on using one of those portable 5 gallon compressed air tanks:

1) Remove the pipe threaded fitting from the tank
2) Using funnel, fill tank with 4 gallons of RV A/F, replace fitting, charge tank with air.
3) With axle supported and valve stem at 12 o'clock, remove core from tire valve.
4) With portable tank upside down, fill tire with liquid.
5) Pull chuck off of valve stem occasionally to allow pressure back out of tire through the valve stem.
6) Recharge portable tank with air as needed to get quick flow of fluid.
7) Refill portable tank with RV A/F as needed.
8) Repeat process until the liquid spits back out the valve stem when pulling the chuck off. Tire is now filled to max capacity.
9) Re-install valve core, pressurize tire.
10) Realize that you now have limited air space in tire, so even a slow leak means quick pressure loss. No leaks in tire allowed.
11) Remember to only check your air pressure with valve stem at 12 o'clock each time.

This method worked well for me and is now my preferred method.

[Tom Scott]

Ray Weaver has the SGT kits for the 450/451 blowers. The 551 doesn't need a kit.

Ray's info can be found in the vendor area of the for sale section of this site.

[TractorDan]

Watched the youtube video, and that answered alot of questions. Thanks for posting that demonstration. I'll have to search for that kit for the SGT. If I load the tires with wiperfluid can it stay in the rim/tire from year to year? Or should it be drained after each winter?

[SWilliams]

I keep mine loaded year around. It helps when mowing as well because the tires don't slip as much and it also keeps it more stable mowing banks.