Power Steering Seal Kit Number

[EngineMike]

Hello,

I took a look around in the archives and didn't find my anwser so I thought I would ask.

I am in need of the J*** D**** part number for the rebuild seal kit for the power steering columns for models 1872, ect. I remember on the old forum that Bryan Baker listed the part number and said it was much cheaper to buy it from them instead of Cub Cadet. Oh course I wasn't smart enough to write the number down, so I was hoping someone had it saved. I've seen Bryan post a few times, maybe he'll chim in. He did a great write up with all the pictures and part numbers.....dang it!

Hope everyone is well!

Thanks!

[Ike]

Hi Mike,

I don't have the part # but I do have a note stating the kit was for a JD 430.

Also, a note that http://www.messicks.com/ recommended a kit for a Steiner.

Hope it works out. I'm thinking of doing the same on my 1862 this winter.

If you get any info, please post it.

Thanks,

Ike

[EngineMike]

.....I went on their site....ewwwwwww.....I'm going to take a shower


Ike, thanks for the info for what models used that setup. I went on their parts lookup and found this part #AM107078. Can anyone just comfirm that number? I'll check price on Monday, see if I can get it from the local dealer we use at work.

Thank You!

[Tom Scott]

I don't have the number in front of me, but I bought the Steiner kit from Messicks; it was a Steiner part number on a Parker Hydraulics bag, probably the same kit that Cub and Deere is selling for much more. The kit they sold me was correct. Follow the Cub manual exactly, and have the required shim stock on hand before starting. You can't do it right without the shim stock. I also found that the older manual (1872 vintage) was easier to follow, but the newer manual (Cyclops era) clarified some things for me. I think the older manual had more drawings, but some of it was clearer in the newer manual. The holding fixture that you need can be made from plywood and be temporarily screwed to the edge of a wooden work bench. Clear a nice big clean area on your bench (a piece of sheet metal on the bench is a good work surface) and have Hy-Tran on hand for assembly lube.

The worst part is placing the final cover without disturbing the three springs. Put it on in a straight shot, and don't let the pressure off of it until you have the nuts holding it down. Beware that the kit has some extra parts to cover different versions, so take your time and review the exploded view from the kit and from the Cub manuals. Overall, not a bad job, just take your time and keep everything surgically clean.

[EngineMike]

Tom,

Thanks for the heads up, I know all about being clean, I build engines for a living.

What kind of shim stock are you talking about? Does it come in the kit or something I need to pick up? Like just metal shim stock in different thicknesses? I've never had one apart before. I picked up a used column that needs some work and I own two other power steering setup tractors , so I thought I should get on the horse eventually and rebuild one.

Thanks!

[Tom Scott]

Mike - The shim stock is not in the kit, it is something you need to obtain on your own. Just three tiny pieces steel shim (steel feeler gauge quality) of the precise thickness shown in the manual. It is used to precisely center the rotor in the bore during the rebuild. Once it is centered and locked in place, you remove the shims and continue the assembly. If your local hardware stores don't have it, perhaps Grainger, or definitely McMaster-Carr. An individual feeler gauge could be cut into the three pieces.

Please forgive me for over advising, but I figure too much is better than not enough. Many people with less experience than you will be reading our discussion and may benefit from some extra detail.

One other oddity; the Parker paper insert in the kit warns that some of the later outer bodies do not separate into as many pieces as shown in the exploded view. Hard to describe without pictures, but the stacks of metal plates are in groups of like four or five in the early versions, and apparently more in the later versions. (The individual plates have been permanently welded/pinned into building blocks). At first the unit from my 1872 seemed like it was perhaps a later version, but the smaller blocks were attached tight together with the old gaskets. So...you need to carefully figure out where to separate them. Careful tapping and some Kroil during disassembly is useful. It would have been good if they had made the separation points more obvious, but they did not.

And...When reassembling, you must have the little indexing "plate gaps" exactly as shown in the Cub manual. Kind of like their secret code for building it in the right order. Not as hard as it looks, because most of them are locked together in their own "building block". Did I mention you need the Cub manual? For anyone that goes to do this, you really need the manual.

[Ike]

Scott,

Lots of good info. I'm sure Mike, myself, and others will benefit from it.

I may tackle mine this winter, have a M18 to put together, a couple foot controls to do and some Street Rod work to get done, so........
It would be nice to have a spare unit to rebuild but they can be pretty pricy.

Take Care,

Ike

[427]

What is the steering unit doing? Is it jerky or hard to steer one way?

[Ike]

What is the steering unit doing? Is it jerky or hard to steer one way?

Hi Brian,

No, if it sits for a while you can turn the wheel a ways before it attempts to move the tires. While mowing etc. it seems to work fine, I just notice that it slowly moves where the wheel is centered while going streight. e.g. start out with the CC emblem in the center of the wheel streight ahead next time you look it may be pointing backwards.

Works OK for now but may need rebuilt soon??

I'd like to find another PS lower unit to rebuild and have standing by.

Take Care,

Ike

[Tom Scott]

Ike - It may be that the power steering unit is perfectly fine. What you are describing could be the steering cylinder itself. The steering cylinder is a double acting cylinder, meaning that fluid is pushed in one end or the other to steer the tractor. If the internal seal in the cylinder is leaking, it will do what you are describing. The fluid is passing by the piston seal without pushing the piston as it should. Since it is an internal leak, you won't see any fluid leaking. As it heats up with use, it may seal better and give better steering response.

Even a brand new perfect cylinder is going to have some slight leakage, so the steering cap is forever going for a ride to the wrong position. When everything is in pretty good shape, you should still be able to steer without the tractor running, even the next day, or next month. My 2182 has some noticeable steering drift on long straight runs, but it will still steer with the engine off, so I am deferring the replacement until it gets worse someday.

[vince_o]

Tom

I had to think about this for a moment, but dang did I forget! How many times I drug things up on the truck with blown engs, backhoes, forklifts, ect, and yes they still steer. Looks like I need to do both of my cylinders too!

[Ike]

Ike - It may be that the power steering unit is perfectly fine. What you are describing could be the steering cylinder itself. The steering cylinder is a double acting cylinder, meaning that fluid is pushed in one end or the other to steer the tractor. If the internal seal in the cylinder is leaking, it will do what you are describing. The fluid is passing by the piston seal without pushing the piston as it should. Since it is an internal leak, you won't see any fluid leaking. As it heats up with use, it may seal better and give better steering response.

Even a brand new perfect cylinder is going to have some slight leakage, so the steering cap is forever going for a ride to the wrong position. When everything is in pretty good shape, you should still be able to steer without the tractor running, even the next day, or next month. My 2182 has some noticeable steering drift on long straight runs, but it will still steer with the engine off, so I am deferring the replacement until it gets worse someday.

Tom,

Guess I'll keep running it till?? It realy isn't causing a problem. Sounds like I should keep a look out for a cylinder.
I imagine new ones are pretty pricey.

I don't think you can put new seals in these, can you?

Thanks,

Ike

[vince_o]

Ike

Ill bet you can. Or get a hyd shop to do it for ya.

[Tom Scott]

Ike - If mine were as bad as what you are describing, I would replace, but that is just me. This is a high wear item, I would prefer new over used. Appears to still be available new, with a new giant part number: 717-3041A-0637, $164. I doubt you could get it rebuilt that cheap, as it is a welded together cylinder. I will probably buy one soon, as I never know what is going NLA next.

[Ike]

Ike - If mine were as bad as what you are describing, I would replace, but that is just me. This is a high wear item, I would prefer new over used. Appears to still be available new, with a new giant part number: 717-3041A-0637, $164. I doubt you could get it rebuilt that cheap, as it is a welded together cylinder. I will probably buy one soon, as I never know what is going NLA next.

Tom, We have a shop close to here that does that type work. I'll check and see if they can do it and the $$$. Might be good info for the future. If it's not significantly cheaper, I'll look for a new one to have on hand.

Just finished the foot control and rebuilt M18 on the other 1862, it's steering in a lot tighter.

Thanks for the info,

Ike

[bbaker]

Sorry to be late to the party, but it appears you guys have figured it out. I used the JD kit as it was cheaper. If you ask for one for a 332 you can't go wrong. Some of the early JD tractors had a different steering vavlve, but the 332 was only a 1 or 2 year production tractor and should have the right kit.

My 45hp New Holland tractor got to where it wouldn't steer well at all and has a very similar setup. I had the steering cyl rebuilt and it was like a new tractor again, so it's not always the steering valve as has been previously discussed.

I cannot stress enough to NOT TAKE the steering vavle assembly APART if you do not have a MANUAL!!!!!! I used the JD manual as I had that available and it was pretty easy if you paid attention to the detail, and followed the manual. I did not use the any shim stock and the steering worked just fine. The one I rebuilt was puking oil out from under the steering wheel which is a pretty common failure.

I don't post a lot anymore as I have lost a lot of interest since the switch to the new site.... and if I ever see Mark Bowersox, you guys have to keep me from kicking that theif in the balls....

it's just a shame....


That said 82 series tractors were the best IH made and the purtyest!

[Tom Scott]

Bryan - I respect your mechanical abilities, but please don't encourage people to skimp on following the directions . The shim stock is necessary to center the rotor. It is pretty much impossible to eye things up to within less than 0.001". I am not sure what happens if it is not centered, but not touching the walls either; it might create an accelerated wear or uneven turning effort situation.

I was in the middle of rebuilding mine when I hit the part where it said I needed the shims. Fortunately I had some on hand. I have warned others that they need it so they get it in advance. It is not expensive or hard to find, but if you don't get it first, you will be tempted to skimp.

As far as the other, more sensitive subject goes... I too wish the transfer to the new forum had been smoother, and I was never privy to the story of why the new forum didn't have access to the old ihregistry name. We lost a lot of good people in the process. I am glad you have been hanging out a little lately.

This new format took some getting used to, but I like it now, and it seems like we eventually got most of the registry guys back with us.

[bbaker]

It's been a while, but I honestly don't remember having to center the rotor. I maybe did, and just don't remember. Going back to school to finish a master's degree has clouded my memory!

I should probably keep my other comments to myself, it just irritates me to this day. You are correct though this is a nice site, and once getting used to it, it works out well. Still lots of good folks arounbd with lots of good info.

[427]

Parker still makes those steering units. I dont think they are as exspensive as you would think if you buy from them.

[Racenitro]

If you are talkint about a new unit...it is nearly $800......

BB.....better save up your nickles and dimes...all of my cub stuff and a nice 318 will be part of my auction I am planning for May.....
Selling the Farm-House-Pole Barn, Swanwick property, farm equipment, garden tractors, dump truck, trailers, tractors, tools both metal and wood, welders, skid steers, loader/backhoe parts, excavator, antiques, Corvette Pace Car, F-350, Super Cubs, parts, attachments, and a LOT more......
Will probably be two rings most of the day....

Also selling the Missouri 40 Acres as well as Omaha Condo...

This will be the end of my Cub hobby. Retaining my Mineral rights on the Farm and the House I live in. Everything else is going......
Retiring after 51 1/2 years of doing the same thing....

After the Cub Patch fiasco, I switched to buying and selling backhoes....have done much better since the cub market has fallen to nearly Zero.

[bbaker]

by all means let me know the dates... I have always said when somehting is no longer fun, it's time to switch to something else.

[Ike]

Ike - If mine were as bad as what you are describing, I would replace, but that is just me. This is a high wear item, I would prefer new over used. Appears to still be available new, with a new giant part number: 717-3041A-0637, $164. I doubt you could get it rebuilt that cheap, as it is a welded together cylinder. I will probably buy one soon, as I never know what is going NLA next.

Tom,

I just ordered one from Smith's Cub Cadet super store Shelbyville Tn. http://www.cubcadetsuperstore.com/
Internet price of $149.85 no shipping charge. Est. delivery is Feb 8th.

Foot control is done on one 1862, starting on the second one (wifes mower)

Take Care,

Ike

[Tom Scott]

Ike - Thank's for the tip on Smith's. Free shipping and their prices are below list; that's pretty good.

Let us know how they do; shipping speed, package condition, etc. It looks like they may become my cheapest go-to source.

[Ike]

Tom,

Will do,

[Ike]

Ike - Thank's for the tip on Smith's. Free shipping and their prices are below list; that's pretty good.

Let us know how they do; shipping speed, package condition, etc. It looks like they may become my cheapest go-to source.

Tom,

New cylinder came yesterday, was promised today. Could have been packaged better, one end was sticking out of the box.

Should have been padded better and in a rectangular box. No damage thou.

It shipped from MTD in Shelby, Ohio.

[vince_o]

BUMP

[BigMike]

Excuse you Vince