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I was sitting there with the camera playing foreman while my son was up on the roof doing some chimney work for me.
The 2072 was parked there and just looked mean. Well, it couldn't just sit there. I put the cultivator on and did a little pre-seeding prep work in an area beside the driveway.
Gotta love a super.

Scott

I didnt now you could put a sleeve hitch on the 2072. I thought they had to have the cat O's

Vince,
You can with a little fab work.

And, the incentive is high if you have nothing but sleeve hitch attachments!

Well Im guessing this would be the time to do it as the rear will be coming out some time this week. What do I need to mae it work? May be a a lot cheaper than 500 bucks for the cat O

Vince,
I took some pictures of when I did it.
It didn't cost me more than 10 bucks. I had the wide frame casting and flat stock for the lift arm.
I bought some brass sleeves at TSC to make bushings for both ends of the lift arm.
The rest was spare angle iron, and old drawbar and U-bracket.
It is not bolted to the rear at all, instead I used welded 1/2" nuts to the inside of the frame and four 1/2" bolts to hold it on.
I figured I would have to make supports to bolt to the rear end but so far (with some pretty hard abuse) it hasn't flexed at all.
If I can't find the progress pictures, I'll take some more of it mounted.

I used a wide frame piece,filled in the notch with an old frame chunk,and bought a 11/2"x1/2" bar stock. I welded pieces of the bar stock on the inside of the frame for strength and spacers,the fit was perfect Then cut the lift bar to length,done in a couple hours.

Finished picture

not as cool as Scott...but my tractors are!..LOL...

So Nate -
Which one pulls the plow better? The 1572D or the IH built 982????

well..prolly the 1572..but the 982 ain't lazy a bit either.the both plow awsome...can't wait to see how the 1872 pulls, but it keeps having issues..i put a bigger better carb on it..and now it needs a starter..it also has a cast iron rearend.

Randy

Than you I think Ill be doing that! I have many more atachments for this set up and the cat O stuff is so high!

Another way to do the sleeve hitch on a super is to use a 1x6/1x7 lift setup. From what I hear, the bracket that is required for that series of tractor will bolt up to the super frame with no problems. Plus it seems that nf lift parts are easier and cheaper to buy than wf ones. You would just need to fab something up for the lower bracket. One more option is a bracket that Andrew Zurn makes that bolts directly to the fame and uses the wf parts. His setup has a integrated lower bracket. he had them at AW's last year and they were a very nice setup. $150 for one with a lift bar included. The only thing you had to supply was the wf yoke. The only problem with Andrew's setup is that with the ihregistry gone, I have no way of tracking down his e-mail address.

AJ

AJ, I saw the brackets at AW's last year and talked to Andrew about making some custom pieces to attach to my custom A-frame. We talked and emailed back and forth after plow day and he sent me some photos of some designs. I sent my A-frame with him back to Iowa to fit the pieces. Well I have not heard from him since around Thanksgiving last year. I have sent numerous emails which do not bounce back and have left numerous voice messages on his cell phone. He has not replied to any of my messages since last year and I may never see my A-frame again. For what it's worth, the email I have for Andrew Zern is atoz12@yahoo.com. If anyone can correspond with him, I would really like to know. Thanks, Tom

Tom That is the email I have in my contacts for Andrew . Try (641)774-2217 , That is the number listed in the phone book. Hope this helps Bruce S.

I made a sleeve hitch for my super.
The basic frame is angle iron which I cut to fit the casting and drilled for the Frankenstein bolts.
I reinforced it with flat stock running up the edge of the angle and as a cross brace.
The U-bracket is welded to the angle with the draw bar welded to that.
I drilled four 1/2" holes in the frame and used weld on 1/2" nuts to fasten it, it does not attach to the rear end anywhere, frame only.
It was built on the fly so I have no dimensions but I plan to build another no that I know it works.
I plowed, disc'd and cultivated the neighbors front yard this spring with rocks big enough to stop the super.
I plowed at plow day and hooked the chain to the sled.
Plus other normal abuse......
It has not moved, twisted or tweaked at all (I'm surprised too!).

Rich Patton and someone else had told me about this. I parted out, what was left, of a 147. I think this will work for now. I saves the rear to do the CI change over on it.

Vince,i did that with my 982 with the cast rear,i sheared the 3/8in. bolts off on one side at FT Allen last year.I drilled out my frame and mount to 1/2in. bolts and fixed that problem,i can pull 12in. plow up to 10in. deep no problem + i get to run my super to plow!

Thats good to know. I dont know if this will plow as much as just being used for the other sleve hitch atachment I have. One being a box blade.

I agree, they do look cool! This is my 2084 along with the 1864.

Is that a "Mid Mounted" snow thrower??

Is that screening on the rear of the side panels. jglass

Amigatec wrote:Is that a "Mid Mounted" snow thrower??

Yes, a 48" snow pulverizer. I'm running gator blades to chop up the snow better!

I had it out because I brought the 2084 from work where I had fit up the hydraulics and blade, was bringing the 1864 back with me. I figured it was a good chance to take a few pics of them side by side.

jglass wrote:Is that screening on the rear of the side panels. jglass

That's the way the side panels are stock on these tractors, no modification by me.

Thanks, Dave, I often wondered how enough air was drawn up through the bottom to cool the engine and transmition. I run my 782 without the side panels for that reason. I have never seen that addressed on this cub site. Any in put from other members? Jglass

John,
You engine is probably running hotter without the side panels. Without the side panels the hot air comes out through the grille and right back around into the flywheel screen. So you are cooling the engine with pre-heated air. Years ago I remember someone on one of the forums tested one with a non-contact IR thermometer and it was quite a bit hotter with the side panels off.

It's funny that you guys are talking about heat. I just came in from mowing 3 acres with the 2072 and when i parked it i thought it seemed hotter than normal(maybe the grass was to long). I was thinking it would be nice to have some vents on the top of the hood for cool down when engine is turned off. Maybe some of those hotrod louvers or how about a big hoodscoop.

Dave

If you put the hood scoop on, will there be plans for a blower down the line?

That would be really cool. I know what you are refuring to ,but i had to think for a second ,because you are on a cub cadet web site that should be a model 450, qa42a ,qa36a .

Dave,
If it seems hot, especially at the beginning of the season, check the tin work around the engine.
You could have had a mouse or some other critter build a next in the shroud and that will restrict air flow (cooling).
Check the flywheel screen to make sure it's clean also.