2182-2: "An Incredible Cinderella Story..."

[bbaker]

I'd keep the same thread. It is after all a Cinderella Story!

[Tom Scott]

Steve, you are so right about the needle scaler! I am familiar with them from industry, but don't have my own. This is probably the first large corrosion job I could have justified having it for, but didn't want to blow half the day running out to buy one. I wasn't expecting the underside to be that bad. I spent a good bit of the day wishing I had one right then. Next time for sure...

I guess I will keep "The Story" going for now, just seems a little anti-climatic now that it is a worker and the big stuff is done. Start throwing tomatoes when it gets boring.

I haven't mentioned the new glass slippers yet; I have been "investing in plastic" for the future of both the Cyclops'.

Cyclops side panels.JPG (515.45 KiB) Viewed 4776 times

Cyclops new grill.JPG (528.4 KiB) Viewed 4776 times

My original saga was about deciding whether to buy another 72 series or Cyclops when I was looking. My only trepidation with another Cyclops was the plastic issue. I figured that if I bought plastic now I would have piece of mind for the future. Now I don't even mind that the existing plastic isn't perfect; I got a backup plan.

I am considering using the air-cooled RH panel to put an extension on the exhaust like the 72 series and turn the muffler up for the loader tractor (-1). It stinks (literally) when the exhaust hits the loader and blows back on me.

[SWilliams]

Going back a few posts I noticed that folks were saying that you don't run the mower decks on the ground. The Cub Cadet commercial grade decks are ground engaging units. The 301 (48"), 317 (48"), 324 (54"), 374 (60") are all designed to be run on the wheels.
From the manual from each "The deck is designed so when in use all 4 ball wheels are always in contact with the ground. Therefore, cutting height is adjusted by raising or lowering ball wheels."

[Tom Scott]

Steve - I did read that in my 54 GT deck manual after my post discussing that. I am a believer in starting with what the people that built it say to do, but I have lots of turning and it is hard on the hanging frame with all the side load.

I started with their recommendation and like I said, it just seemed hard on the hanging frame with all the turning. The hanging frame that came with the deck was badly worn, beat to crap and had been re-welded several times. I got a replacement hanging frame from Ray Weaver that is in pretty good shape.

I don't think these tractors have any problem carrying the deck weight, especially the 54 GT, I just think they were after a better cut. Keeping the gauge wheels hard on the ground is going to give you the best ground contour following.

So, I backed my set up off to where on my lumpy yard at least one of the gauge wheels seem to be on the ground at any one time, sometimes two. I can feel there is a whole lot less fighting going on beneath me when I turn the tractor, and the cut is still fabulous.

As a side note, I mean really fabulous with that 54 GT. I always liked my 50C, but this 54 GT deck gives a cut that is even nicer!

[9803412]

Tom
I have a friend working on water jetting the side panels for the 2182's and 1782's.

[SWilliams]

Tom,
I run mine on the wheels but it does wear some.

I bought an 1863 that had a 317 48" deck under it, I don't know where it was during it's past life but the entire lip on the bottom of the deck was ground off from concrete/stone contact and the hanger was bent like a banana from the constant pressure.

[Tom Scott]

Tom
I have a friend working on water jetting the side panels for the 2182's and 1782's.

Sam, very cool! Give us an update as this progresses.

Steve - Yeah, it's amazing the abuse people will put on these machines. That 48" is the same deck, just a little smaller, should give you the same great performance. Also, if you missed it, I posted a thread in the fall where I had found a later plastic deck plug for mulching. These decks mulch leaves great!

So, my point was that even though we are told to run them on the gauge wheels, I like to mostly suspend them so as not to beat things up so bad. I thought I would like the newer style deck stop at the back of the tractor, but I don't use it. The hydraulics support it fine and it allows me to lower it all the way when parked.

[SWilliams]

Tom,
Yeah this makes the 3rd 317 deck I've had. My 1641 has one and I have a spare that came off an 1864. My only complaint is grass build up in the corner, but the revision parts help with that. I plan on welding in a piece of steel to replace the bolt in part. That will keep the crap from getting behind it.

The only thing I have used the height stop for is to hold the deck full up if I use the rear 3 point or if I'm mowing the roadsides as I cut that higher than the lawn.
On the 1641 I had to trim it a bit because the 3 point would catch the end and stick.

Currently I'm building a blended tractor. Taking a 1641 chassis that had a B&S on it, it has front ports, independent 3 point (you can stack 3 valves easy!) and I'm going to do some "creative wiring" to eliminate all of the interlocks except the brake and PTO. The seat switches and reverse cut out will be gone. Also going to eliminate a few of the inline connectors and add a couple relays so the ignition switch won't carry any real current. Refit the lights with all LED. Bracing for the rear axle. I might even paint it! Been thinking of a Black chassis, red plastic and red fender pan. Oh and it will be getting the 22 horse that is currently on the 1863. Which is another reason for the rewire.

[bbaker]

Currently I'm building a blended tractor. Taking a 1641 chassis that had a B&S on it, it has front ports, independent 3 point (you can stack 3 valves easy!) and I'm going to do some "creative wiring" to eliminate all of the interlocks except the brake and PTO. The seat switches and reverse cut out will be gone. Also going to eliminate a few of the inline connectors and add a couple relays so the ignition switch won't carry any real current. Refit the lights with all LED. Bracing for the rear axle. I might even paint it! Been thinking of a Black chassis, red plastic and red fender pan. Oh and it will be getting the 22 horse that is currently on the 1863. Which is another reason for the rewire.

Build thread please!

[SWilliams]

Well, still working on the blower rig, BUT did discover that I was correct, the xtreme braces will not work with the GT style 388/389 three point.
The brace would be in the way of the factory stiffener that attaches to the bottom of the rear plate and the axle housing. Probably wouldn't be hard to weld a tab on to connect them up.
Might be something to add to a revised part.