2084 Questions

[sacky07]

Im looking a 2084 with mule drive but no deck for $800. I don't know a thing about the Cyclopes or any super. 20hp kohler with 500 hours. Single owner. where does this sit in the price range for these? I see supers with decks with sellers asking 1800-3500 depending on motor and deck. Id like to have the 60"er for it. am I better off finding the complete setup or is this a good start for the price? Thanks

[JMotuzick]

Why are you asking just buy it!
If not tell me where it is!

[dag1450]

Its hard to say without knowing or seeing the condition, 500 hrs is low. It may have been well cared for and b a good deal or it could have sat outside.....and be a mess. Dave

[Tom Scott]

Dustin - Your question is broad so I will just ramble on and touch on some points that may help.

The Cyclops series was the same frame and running gear as the previous generation (1872, 2072, etc., "72 series"). The Cyclops offered many improvements over the 72 series: Larger battery moved to the front closer to the starter, fuel tank in the rear (lower, easier to fill and larger), tilt steering, CV joints instead of rag joints in the drive-line and larger stronger rear fenders.

The Cyclops also brought one glaring deficiency: The plastic front end. The plastic is a shame with all the other improvements, and generally with the age of these machines it is rarely in perfect condition. The hood cracks where it mounts to the hinge. The two forward posts tend to break off the side panels. The grill (the entire front nose is considered the grill) cracks down low above where it mounts.

If you can get by the plastic issues, they are great machines. I owned my 1861 Cyclops for about 12 years and the plastic was as good as the day I brought it home because I handled it with care and didn't run into anything.

For the air cooled engines all the plastic is still available, albeit at a fairly high cost. The hood and side panels can be repaired by tapping out the hollow posts that tend to break and screwing in metal studs.

For me, the grill is the most serious and most overlooked plastic defect. The cracks aren't as noticeable, but I consider the grill the most important piece for the strength of the front end. The grill ties it all together and would be difficult to repair properly. In my book, long term ownership means signing up to buy an new grill now while they are still available. I have done so for both of my Cyclops.

Price: Condition is everything. In addition to the plastic issues, the Cyclops shares the same aluminum rear issues that the 72 series has. Over time the two upper axle tube bolts on both sides that connect the tractor to the frame tend to loosen. Original owners don't notice this happening and can strip the threads out of the center section. The forward transmission mount has two more bolts on each side that attach a hanger bracket from the frame to the aluminum adapter housing. These can come loose over time as well and strip and/or break or crack the ears of the aluminum adapter housing. A crack can very difficult to see when looking over the tractor before purchase, so you might have to take your chances here. See my "Cinderella Story" thread for my 2182-2. That crack was just not visible without very close inspection.

$800 might be a pretty good price even if you have the rear and plastic issues, but you need to be prepared to fix them.

It is fine to buy without a deck, but having a missing deck raises an eyebrow and would make me look closer at the deal. Still having the mule drive but not the deck hints at a careless ownership history, so just be more observant when checking out the tractor. The mule drives are generally particular to a specific series of decks, so it might not be of much value unless it matches the deck you are seeking.

The 2084 has the 20 hp Kohler Command V-twin and is a great engine. All the Cyclops Supers had good engines, but the 20 hp and up is a better choice for the 60" deck you are considering.

I could keep droning on, so ask whatever question this spurs. You can see by my signature line that I am not bothered by the plastic issues. I have dealt with it by investing in some new pieces that will probably last the life of the tractors for myself.
I hope it turns out to be a good deal for you!

[sacky07]

Thanks Tom. That's a lot of useful information. I will definitely check out the plastic.

[sacky07]

finally got some pics. what do you think?

[bbaker]

That's the mule drive for the GT decks. If it's in good shape and you want a super I'd say go for it. Go rub 600 bucks under his nose and see if you can buy it.

[sacky07]

Id like to have it, but I got too many irons in the fire. Plus I was looking for a complete set up a little older then this one. BB, oh yes, I chew on em hard. heres the CL link. http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/grd/4428510632.html

[sacky07]

Well good things do come to those who wait...at least 48 hours that is, hehehehe. I stumbled across this one this morning in the local trading post on FB. Happened to be right down the road from the dentist. Going to the dentist usually sucks, but not today!!! I think I scored for a cool $800....

[Jlaws]

I think you did great for $800 . I'd much rather have the 1872 than a 2084 any day .
Dual hydrolift , dual brakes , power steering , wheel weights , super 60" haban deck .......

[dag1450]

Good Deal on the tractor....... But do i spy a sweet 78-9 pickup ??? Dave

[bbaker]

well there ya go... Cubgrats!

[sacky07]

Is there a checklist of things I should look at and inspect on this thing? Ive read about bolts coming loose in rear and breaking where it mounts to frame. Is there anything else?

[VScott]

Nice snag!!!! If I was buying another here is what I would look at on a preventative maintenance basis.

The rear end is the big deal on them. They aren't all bad, so don't obsess on it, but don't overlook it. You can feel it shifting in the chassis when accelerating forward or backward if it is loose enough.

A fuel shut off valve should be installed between the tank and filter (and used anytime the tractor won't be used for more than a couple of hours). The fuel pump diaphragms tend to get pinholes in them and will fill the crankcase with fuel. The tank is higher than the engine, and gravity will take over. The 82 series all had one on the fuel tanks, but you have to remove the left side panel to gain access to it.

Blow out the cooling fins and air passages of the engine. If there has been an old oil leak, or a previous owner didn't keep the cooling system clean it could cause overheating, and big trouble as far as engine life.

Check out the drive shaft couplers, roll pins, etc. The input yoke to the hydro can start to wobble on the shaft and wear out.

I like to make sure that the governor is properly adjusted, and that the pinch bolt is properly torqued. Over revving them can be disastrous.

Take a look at the pto bearings. Make sure that the plastic seal is intact, and the pto is quiet, and properly adjusted.

Make sure the direction control lever has the right amount of drag. It can be adjusted by the cross bolts in the dash tower.

It's a royal pain on the 60" decks, but I would take it out from under the tractor and clean and lube it up, and check the mounting points for cracks. Check the belt condition, too. They are heavy monsters, and banging around under a tractor for years is a lot of stress.

Inspect and lube the front wheel bearings, they do wear.

I couldn't see if there is a 3 point hitch but if not, a hitch plate off of the cyclops models will bolt right up, and gives you a lot more rigidity to the frame, and I can't help but think that it reduces the stress on the rear axle mounting bolts, and lessens the chances of them loosening. On my 2072 I could feel the frame flexing when the tractor got in certain angles...going across a ditch, etc. the hitch plate really made a difference.

If you have a good maintenance history on the tractor, you could figure how long ago the hydro fluid and filter were changed. I have used both hytran, and aftermarket fluids with good luck, but I have learned from experience that Cub Cadet filters and Fleetguard brand filters always work.

[sacky07]

V scott, thanks for the reply. thanks to all. This has been very helpful. I was able to try this mower out for the first time last weekend. Its big. Too big for all the nooks and crannys in my yard, but it did knock out the flat spots fast. Almost looks like a stripper kit on it. So this deck is designed to ride on the 4 casters? Man is it noisy, caster wise. I read about jamming a wooden wedge in the front casters to quite them down. is there any thing else I need to look out for? or is this just the nature of the beast?

[dag1450]

I'm not sure how that 60 inch was intended to be used, on the ground or off ? I know around my yard i would not be able to let the casters ride on the ground, There r just to many imperfections in my yard that would "swallow" a caster never to b seen again. So in light of that i set the height where i want the grass to b cut, then move the casters so they hit the ground about 20% of the time on bumps or inclines and things like that. They look like they r riding on the ground most of the time but that is the grass just spinning the wheels. I made pvc "wood" spacers to sit behind the front casters and that helps with noise and wear. Good luck. Dave

[sacky07]

oh, and yes dave. that's my brothers 78 custom. bought it from original owner, 60K miles on it.

[bbaker]

I spy a fox body in the background too..

[dag1450]

Sweet !

[sacky07]

that's mine. bone stock, except for the 4.10's and a blower. only pic I have on this computer.

[BigMike]

800.00 for a Haban equipped 1872?......you my friend SUCK!

Nice Cub,car and truck.

Short bed, 1/2 ton and it probably has a 460. My '78 F-250 had Dana 60s front and rear(heaviest GVW that year) and had a lowly 400. My '79 F-350 had a Dana 60 front and a Dana 70 rear and it had a lowly 400.

[sacky07]

truck originally had 390, now has 400m

[VScott]

Can we talk about the caster wheel mod? I am really interested in it.

I am pretty new to the 60" decks, but it doesn't take long to notice the noise from the front wheels. I have one on a 2182 and one on a 2086. The 2086 lifts the wheels a lot higher than the 2182, and I haven't investigated why. One of the left fronts have been bent and re-welded on the 2182 and it rides slightly lower. I have a 50" on a 2082, and you could sneak up on someone with that one it's so quiet.

351/400m wasn't much for power, but they sure do sound good with some old cheap glasspacks and dual exhaust out the rear, but there's nothing like the sound of a 360/390. Dad had a 73 and a 76 when I was a kid, both 390's. My buddy had a 78 with a 351M. I sure miss the sounds of the old junk that we drove back in the 80's. It's a wonder I'm still alive.

[dag1450]

I will post a picture of my spacer blocks behind the front casters. I made them so you really cant see them back in there and i think it really quiets it down.....although i do wear radio ear muffs while mowing.

Vinny, Yea they say those engines were too full of early pollution control and they really suffered in hp. Back as a crazy teen i built a 351 Cleveland in my 1980 pick up but then chickened out and went with regular mufflers for the duels. I was always secretly jealous of a buddy with a 78 or 9 that had the glass packs........when he would get on it ......heads would spin!! I knew from then on the next p-u i build is getting glass packs. Dave

[dag1450]

I just screwed two blocks of pvc trim wood together and made the one against the mower deck thick enough to take up any play so the caster cant hit the deck. Mine r a few yrs old, worn a little and now just starting to touch i see. U could use a hard wood and it might last a bit longer but the softness may help with the sound. The bottom of the block looks just like the top. I painted them silver so they blend in. I also installed bolts with lock nuts as my pins were worn too.

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[VScott]

Ahhh...mine are the newer model 100 decks.