Scary happening

[Racenitro]

Was working on the height adjustment for the deck on my 2072. Had the engine idling so I could operate the hydraulics and check the height. All of a sudden the deck engages!

The switch is in the off position but the deck is running.

Before anybody says did I have all of the safety overrides connected, the cause would not be effected by anything electrical!

THE PROBLEM or CAUSE....
The bearing in the PTO pulley disintegrated without any warning and locked the clutch to ON!

The cage came apart and the ball bearings jammed together to lock the pulley to the engine shaft!


Now...does anybody have a bearing number for the bearing that the v-belt pulley rides on? I have the bad races out. No damage to the pulley or the collar that holds the bearing on the engine PTO shaft cause the replacement part is well over $200 dollars since you have to buy the entire armature!

[Racenitro]

I can answer my own question...
www.ussander.com/info/?type=help&help=bearings Has the exact bearing. It is Metric sealed bearing No. 6007 and it sells for a little over $10.

The company deals with heavy duty floor sanders so I suspect the bearing will be able to stand up to the Cub PTO needs.

[dag1450]

Yea that will make u poop your pants! Good to hear you did not get hurt. When mine went bad i was luckly sitting on it ready to drive out of the garage....lets just say i had fun digging the black trash bag out from the blades. Dave

[Oak]

I have always used a 6206 double sealed bearing. Any bearing store will carry them. Wow, you were lucky.

[VScott]

Frank,

the 20 hp motors use a different bearing than the 18 hp ones. I don't have the number handy, but if you search back I posted it about May of last year. I got the bearing at O'Reilleys. I was cleaning out a wood pile with a wagon on the 2082 and the deck did the same thing. I actually used the tractor with it locked up for a week or two before I got a chance to fix it. There isn't a lot of area on the bearing to hit it with a punch, and it's a pretty odd angle.

[Racenitro]

Got my bearings today. (ordered 2 just in case) Fit like a glove. Came from KBC with several part numbers 6007ddcsg14 on a sticker and the box has 6206ZZ C3G14.

The inside collar fit perfectly and the bearing fit the armature. Back together and working again.

This was a 2072 so no info regarding 1872.

[dag1450]

Just wondering how or if u secured the bearing. This happen to me twice....one i sold the tractor. The other i made a hole in the seal and got oil in there and has been doing grt, but im sure im on borrowed time. Dave

[Tom Scott]

Dave - The bearing housing is staked in three places around the perimeter of the outer race. It is only a mild stake, as it is just to keep the bearing from walking out the front of the housing. It should fit tight enough that the outer race won't spin in the housing anyway. I had one that was a little loose, so I used Loctite (or Permatex) "Bearing and Sleeve Retainer" around the outer race and it worked great. (This is exactly what "Bearing and Sleeve" retainer is meant to do, secure the outer race to the housing or inner race to the shaft, although most inner races are secured mechanically.)

When you go to replace the bearing you can use a Dremel to grind the factory staking away in the three places before pressing out the old bearing. Just pick three new places for the new staking.

[dag1450]

Thanks Tom....but how am i supposed to make the new stakes....(i wish this were wood)? I have done this before with seals in aluminum, but that was pretty soft and i didnt really want to hit the seal for fear of deforming it. Do i deform the edge of the bearing or the edge of the pto housing...or both. If i remember the factory ones r pretty large. Next would b what kind of chisel to use, pointed or like a blunt pin driver...so many questions......sorry. Dave

[Tom Scott]

Dave - When you are dealing with things like bearing races, they are extremely hard. Think of bearing races as the "glass" of the metal world. Engineering trade-offs; the extreme hardness needed to keep the bearings from wearing make them too brittle to stake directly. You would break it before you could stake it successfully.

There are other times when maybe you have a mild steel pin in a cast iron block, maybe flush with the surface. In that case you might choose to stake the pin close to where it meets the block with a center punch, or perhaps a sharp chisel spanning both the pin and the block.

In this case, you stake only the pto housing, and it just needs to be enough to keep the race stationary and in the housing. Pick three undisturbed places spaced equally around the perimeter. I haven't done one in a while, but a pin punch is probably a good choice from what I remember. Since you are dealing with a sheetmetal lip, don't stake it so hard that you start cutting the metal. A dull cold chisel would be a good choice if the sharp edge of the pin punch starts to cut.

Buy some of the Bearing and Race Retainer and you won't feel like you have to crush it to stay in place. The bearing & race retainer is just another version of the chemical used for threadlocker, it is very strong.

So, whenever you are staking something, the tool and/or method will be varied to match the materials and configuration.

[Oak]

I have replaced many of the bearings. I beat the old one out with a socket and a hammer, clean up the surface with fine sandcloth and lacquer thinner and use red loctite when I tap the new bearing in place. Never had a problem again.

[dag1450]

Good info! Thanks guys. I think i will oil my old one again, maybe i can get a few more years out of it. Dave

[Racenitro]

The bearing is actually held in place by the large washer and bolt in the end of the PTO shaft. Mine was tight on the 3 raised surfaces that hold the bearing. THe only thing that actually happen is the clearance could change if the armature shifted on the bearing. When it is engaged everything runs together so there is no movement between parts.