brake hydro control linkage adjustment

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childressj
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 6:30 am
First and Last Name: Jim Childress
Location: Greenville, SC

brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by childressj »

I searched for this topic and found nothing. I have a suspician this is a common problem. Hopefully I did not overlook something staring me in the face, if so I apologize.
I can adjust my hydro linkage to a variety of lengths and the same with the brake link and while I can easily get the brake to return from forward to neutral it will not return from reverse to neutral or I can adjust so it will easily return from reverse to neutral but not from forward to neutral. Must one replace a bunch of obsolete parts to get the thing to work correctly? Not that it matters I suppose, but the machine is a 1512. Thank you for any observations, advice (including to ignore it)

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Tom Scott
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Re: brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by Tom Scott »

Jim - Try adjusting between those two extremes. I have not run into this, but I suspect you are just adjusting too far in either direction.

You might be expecting the return to neutral to happen too quickly. Generally you are most of the way down with the brake pedal before you get to neutral. Try adjusting just halfway back from "only works returning from forward" and "only works returning from reverse". Sorry I don't have more for you, I just haven't run into this problem.

Let us know how you do.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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SWilliams
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Re: brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by SWilliams »

It's a common issue depending on how the brakes were used and if the linkage was ever lubed to prevent wear. When new the slots and pin slides easy. Step on the brake and it goes to neutral, then step harder and the brakes apply. The problem is that isn't the way it's supposed to be used. You're supposed to move the hydro to neutral first, then apply the brakes. Sadly many used the first option. That wouldn't be a big deal but if you look over the linkage it is probably sloppy and DRY. The slots are worn, the pin is worn and the brakes are probably out of adjustment as well.

What to do. I've welded up the wear, ground it smooth lubed the surfaces then adjusted it. On the other tractor I just smoothed out the rough spots, greased it real good and called it "close enough". The reason that is there is to protect the hydro and gears. They don't want you stopping both wheels with the hydro trying to turn them. It causes problems.
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Farmallgray
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Re: brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by Farmallgray »

Are you using the procedure from the service manual? Usually you don't adjust the threaded rods. The return to neutral is adjusted by moving the bracket where the linkage bolts to the pump up or down. It isn't real apparent just by looking at it. You really need to go by the manual or you are just peeing in the wind. I believe we have copies of the manual here on this site for download.
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Jlaws
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Location: Independence , Ky

Re: brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by Jlaws »

Jim , for safety sake before you do any serious hydro linkage adjusting , I'd have the rearend up on jack stands .
I once bought a 682 from a guy that had just swapped rearends and hadn't got around to adjusting it .
It hadn't been running for a while , so when I got it I was just interested in how it ran or if it smoked any .
Even though I had the brake pedal locked down , the darn thing almost ran over me and through the garage door before I got it shutdown...LOL

Todds right , there is a step by step procedure for adjusting the neutral ( center position ) and from memory it starts with that bracket mounted on the pump . Then you adjust the threaded rod to center the handle . I think the manual tells you to have the rearend off the floor before you do any adjusting .
I see a lot of cub cadets while going down the tracks , its a shame I can't pull over and ask about them .

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Tom Scott
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Re: brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by Tom Scott »

As Todd says, moving the bracket that bolts to the pump up and down is the heart of the adjustments, as it controls where hydro neutral really is. You adjust the up and down of that bracket (with the rear on jackstands as per Jess) until the wheels don't creep in either direction. Double check for creep when pushing the brake down when returning from reverse and again in forwards. As Steve mentions, you won't get perfect if it is worn, so get the best compromise and clean and lube the system up. I like white spray lithium grease, ends up pretty dry and attracts less dirt.

Pay no attention to the dash lever for neutral position. The brake/hydro return and no wheel creep determines neutral position. After that is right, then you adjust the threaded rod going from the hydro forward to the hydro lever just to get lever the position to neutral with the brakes on. When you do this you can bias the lever more towards forward or revers if you wish to gain more speed in one direction or the other.

I'm just paraphrasing from memory, you should definitely look at the manual and follow the procedure. If worn, new parts are worth it and will last many years if lubed. I do sometimes use the brake pedal only approach to return to neutral, but only if my hands are busy on the loader or something else. As Steve says, best to make the hydro lever the main method of controlling the tractor when possible.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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childressj
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2012 6:30 am
First and Last Name: Jim Childress
Location: Greenville, SC

Re: brake hydro control linkage adjustment

Post by childressj »

Thank you all for your thoughts. You are all correct that I did not attempt to adjust the bracket up or down. I had not moved the bracket at all to perform the R.H. trunnion seal replacement, and neutral at the lever provided no creep so I figured it was OK as is. I had disconnected both the hydro control rod as well as the brake rod, so limited my experiments to those parts. I will take the advice of all and do the complete procedure.

I need a new instrument panel. If anyone has an extra one that they would like to find a new owner for at a reasonable price, please contact me. A previous owner trimmed away much of the forward flange from this one probably to use a larger battery. He may have failed to note that the hood will not allow a taller battery anyway and now the hood lacks proper support to insure it is kept off of the battery terminals.

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