Cleaning up the 2072

[daraabi]

I thought I would start a thread about my refresh of the 2072. I've got a few things to take care of including:

Sloppy Hydro lever
Sloppy Brakes
Sloppy Steering

So I guess you might say this tractor is just plain sloppy? Well anyway I decided to tackle the hydro lever first. The lever itself is broken just below the control panel so I have a replacement on the way. Yesterday I got the tractor up on jacks to take a look at the adjustments and the trunnion and found this:



Notice something missing? I guess I need a new trunnion now... No wonder the darn thing is impossible to control!

So does anyone know where to find a replacement trunnion?

[daraabi]

Well it looks like I answered my own question. Parts 4,5,6 in this diagram are what I need. Part numbers:

932-3012 (x1)
932-3013 (x1)
911-3033 (x2)



Each of those is alternative part numbers which is odd but it looks like thats what I need!

[PTWannaHave]

Make sure the part that receives these springs and pucks is not worn out...

[JMotuzick]

I like to shim #1 so that there is no slop as well. I order shim shock from mcmaster carr.

[daraabi]

I like to shim #1 so that there is no slop as well. I order shim shock from mcmaster carr.

Do you place it between the trunnion bracket and the hydro like a washer?

[Tom Scott]

It also appears that some animal bent the trunion arm towards the hydro to remove the springs. That arm will need to be bent back to center the springs in the plate "1". As has been mentioned, look for wear in all these pieces. Xtrememotorworks.com has a repair placte that can be welded in to clean up the rectangle.

The same animal looks to have added some sheetmetal to pull and push the trunion without the springs. That piece of metal and bolt in the foreground is a rig job that has been added.

[JMotuzick]

I try to center the to plates on the springs the shim washers will push the vertical plate as needed.

[daraabi]

Well this is how the mower sits now:



I bent the trunnion bracket back away from the hydro so now it looks like this:



Is this upward bend ok, or do I need to straighten it?



Also, the brackets seem mis-aligned. Is that ok as it is?



Also, this rod looks welded, is that factory or has someone repaired it?

[dag1450]

Looks like it was repaired. Each end of that rod should look the same...... threaded with a adjustable rod end or ball joint. One of those on that rod is a left handed thread.....im betting it was that one and they did not have a LH ball joint so that was there quick fix. Might be easier to just find a new (used) rod. Im not sure what the Cub Cadet market is like in FL, but you should find a good cub or tractor salvage yard. Now that i see your mower deflector shoot in these new pics.......it look like its in good shape! Mine looks as though it has found a few trees Dave

[Tom Scott]

Like dag said, you should get a new rod and rod end (ball joint). One end is LH thread so that you can adjust the rod length without removing either end, just loosening jam nuts. If you can't find used, they are still available new. The rod ends should also be available from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. After you get correct neutral position of the linkage by adjusting the bracket that attaches to the hydro up and down (part 7), that rod is used to center the dash lever at neutral. The manual outlines the adjustment well. You can also bias neutral position on the dash to give slightly more forward or reverse travel.

The trunion being tilted up slightly from horizontal should be ok, but the out of square looking straight down needs to be corrected or you will get exaggerated wear of the trunion slot. I would not heat to bend, or the heat could kill the seal at the hydro. Perhaps use a pipe wrench on top that trunion to twist it back into square with the damper spring plate (part 1).

[VScott]

This would be a good time to make sure that all of your rear axle mounting bolts are nice and tight, and that none of the axle mounting points are broken. Keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming...every picture of a super makes another guy want a super!!!

[SWilliams]

Yeah, you really want to check the axle mount bolts. They have a nasty habit of loosening up then breaking! I have to strip one of mine down to remove and replace at least 2 that are broke off. It's also a good time to add a couple braces to keep them from getting loose again.

[daraabi]

Yeah, you really want to check the axle mount bolts. They have a nasty habit of loosening up then breaking! I have to strip one of mine down to remove and replace at least 2 that are broke off. It's also a good time to add a couple braces to keep them from getting loose again.

Braces? How would I go about doing that? Should I use locktight or just get some replacements with safety wire holes?

[Tom Scott]

Adam - You might want to peruse the build thread I had for my most recent 2182 (which I have named 2182-2...).

At any rate, when I got the tractor I discovered a cracked adapter housing where it mounts to the factory front tranny mounts. This is common on these machines, especially when the bolts that have been discussed are allowed to become loose.

In this thread I detail the task of tranny removal and replacing the adapter housing. I decided to add braces as I put it back together. Xtrememotorworks.com sells a bolt on set, but I decided to build my own for a lot less money. The merits of each and a discussion is in the thread.

Link to the 2182-2 build: viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5282&start=60 This lands you on the page where I build the braces, but you might want to follow from the beginning if you get bored.

In case your not familiar, the 2072 is the same machine in most ways as this newer Super I worked on, so the same discussion applies to your rear.

All of the 3/8" bolts (9/16" hex head) in the rear should be torqued to 30 ft-lbs. In the thread I also discuss my thoughts on threadlocking, and due to the cyclical nature of the application I prefer Permatex #2 or #3 as they stay gummy. #2 is easier to work with, #3 is a more liquid version. All these bolts for the axle carriers (tubes) and tranny mounts should be checked with a torque wrench yearly (30 ft-lbs).

[daraabi]

Tom. Thank you for the info. I get the idea on the brackets and will look into it.

Back to the hydro linkage - I took some additional pics because I'm still confused. I tried prying on the black bracket you see in the pic below (the vertical one) and didnt like the creaking I was hearing. I'm not really sure how to align things at this point. My only idea would be to grind off that washer-like thing in between it and the next bracket forward in order to get better alignment with the trunnion bracket on the hydro. Does that make sense?

Or is it the upper bracket (with the question mark) that is bent? If everything is supposed to be nice and parallel, it looks like that upper bracket is the one causing everything to go all catty-wampus. Thoughts?

[dag1450]

Adam.....it looks like things are all messed up there for ya.lol If u look at the parts breakdown that is up on Jan 29th. Part #1 is supposed to interlock or pin into part #10 in the slot. From your pics it does not look like this is happening. IDK.. Dave

[daraabi]

Adam.....it looks like things are all messed up there for ya.lol If u look at the parts breakdown that is up on Jan 29th. Part #1 is supposed to interlock or pin into part #10 in the slot. From your pics it does not look like this is happening. IDK.. Dave

It is in the slot, its just hard to see. The entire linkage works you might say, just stiff. I just want to make sure that everything is aligned ok before I go and install a brand new trunnion.

[dag1450]

Adam, I have not looked at mine to see exactly what it looks like. If u say the two parts r working together that is good but is that a washer or spacer under your red "x"? I don't see that on the part breakdown and looks like its throwing your geometry off. If things r still very tight try loosening the one nut on the pedistal # 23. Maybe use some lube on the some of the linkage.Dave

[dag1450]

Finally got out to the shop. Here r some pics of the 1572 linkage. This has almost no wear on any parts. Things kinda move and "float" around real easy.Dave

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[dag1450]

Maybe i was just seeing a shadow on that "pin" under your red X. Once i looked at mine, it has that same shoulder/spacer that i said may have been throwing yours off. idk Keep us posted. Dave

[daraabi]

Maybe i was just seeing a shadow on that "pin" under your red X. Once i looked at mine, it has that same shoulder/spacer that i said may have been throwing yours off. idk Keep us posted. Dave

Dave - awesome pics. Very helpful! Couple questions though. I've circled a couple things on your pics. First - do these two bolts allow for adjustment of the forward bracket?



Next it would appear I have something wrong with this pivot here. The entire bracket wobbles significantly on the shaft. Do you think I'm just missing the lock ring? I wont be able to look at it until Wednesday so I'm just trying to get an idea of what I'm looking at first!

[dag1450]

Sure is nice u put up that parts breakdown early as we keep going back to that.Yes Adam bracket # 7 has adjustment for "dialing "in the hydro controls, forward/backward/creep and speed of each i think. There is a procedure to do this that involves getting the tractor up on jack stands and all. I only did this one time, it was not hard, but someone else would be better to walk u though if needed or find it in a manual. My Part # 1 at your red circle is somewhat loose.... not sloppy but not tight......dont know how else to describe it . Hope this helps. How r u making out on gathering any new parts? Dave

[daraabi]

Sure is nice u put up that parts breakdown early as we keep going back to that.Yes Adam bracket # 7 has adjustment for "dialing "in the hydro controls, forward/backward/creep and speed of each i think. There is a procedure to do this that involves getting the tractor up on jack stands and all. I only did this one time, it was not hard, but someone else would be better to walk u though if needed or find it in a manual. My Part # 1 at your red circle is somewhat loose.... not sloppy but not tight......dont know how else to describe it . Hope this helps. How r u making out on gathering any new parts? Dave

Well I've found a guy online selling a complete bracket system off of an 1811 that looks close enough. I'm just trying to figure out if the brackets will fit. If they do, I'll probably do a complete replacement and just fix it all in one go. I have a new shift lever (Part 20 in the diagram - yea I like having that too - makes it easy) so that will be fixed. I'm working on cleaning up the battery tray - it was trashed. My wife is taking it to work to sand blast it then I'll get a good coat of paint on it. Probably POR-15 since I have some left over from another project. I'm hoping to get some period-correct CC paint to re-paint the fenders so I can put everything back together. I'm trying to keep things cheap at the moment so I probably wont be able to get to some other things I'd like to do for a while yet.

And yea what you described for Part #1 is definitely NOT what I have. "Bang-around loosely" would be the term I would use!

[dag1450]

Most parts will work for ya.....except the two rods #15 and #13. Hard to tell if they have less or more wear than yours......when looking at a computer screen Dave

[daraabi]

I thought I would update on my progress. I pulled the linkage apart and scrubbed the crud off of all the pivot posts. I then pushed (actually POUNDED) part 1 onto its post. The reason it was all wonky was that it had slipped off of it's post. So I pushed it back into place and re-bent the trunnion bracket into place and everything seems to line-up nicely. I just need to get a few snap rings, a new trunnion, and a replacement control rod (15/16/17). I also installed a new control handle (part 20) - which was a total pain. I think you are supposed to take the tractor apart to do that job - but I got it anyway. So once I get the new parts I should have a fully functional control linkage! Thank goodness!

[dag1450]

Wow...now that u said that i went back and looked, your second pic on Jan 31 looks as though its all most off. Sorry i did not see that earlier. Still not sure about the pounding......lol. Hey if u want to earn some money....i just saw a 60 inch deck discharge shoot sell on ebay for i think close to $80. Wow. Dave

[duke]

This is a very interesting thread

Once you get this big guy ready to go again.What are your plans for it?

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3235,1882 cat 0,1872,2284,2165

[daraabi]

I was also very surprised by how hard that sucker was to get on that post - but its on and it looks like it will work. I'm POR-15ing the battery tray today and I'll likely finish up the linkage next week and then adjust the neutral bracketry. I'm thinking I should be able to drive around in the next couple weeks. Which is good because it looks like we will be moving out of our apartment into our new house towards the end of march - so I gotta be running by then! I'm really hoping to get some paint on this beast by then too so it will look a little nicer. My wife is good with paint so I'll see if she can help with that too.

To answer the question of my plans - well I plan to mow our new yard with this monster which is kind of funny because its all of 1/4 acre... Overkill I know but I figure go big or go home! At least I know that 60' deck will make short work of things!

[daraabi]

More progress... Got the battery tray painted with POR-15-



I also got the old wheel weights out (dang they were HEAVY) and started doing some cleaning. While these are opposite wheels the pics give a good example of before and after:





I also got that big 60" deck off:



And finally here is how she sits now. My friend finally sold his '81 Vette I was storing for him - so the Super get its own spot!

[dag1450]

Adam...... thanks for gettin some work down there, cause i dont feel like doing anything right now w the tractors up here....too darn cold! What was your method to the madness for mower removal.....jack up the front, rear, both, or start removing wheels and tires...... i have not done the last but i thought it might work....idk That 60" is big and heavy! Dave