1811 back from the dead

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eplummer
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1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

My 1811 project came to life this weekend. This tractor had been sitting out in the new england weather for years then under a barn for a few more. Got it to start and run this weekend. It is still in rough shape but on its way back. I did notice there is a ton of the caked on engine oil on the right side of the engine..the culprit is the oil pressure switch(?) Engine oil was spewing out of it. Could someone let me know what I am in for to change this out? Could it be just that there are O rings that have gone bad?
Thanks
Eric

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Jlaws
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by Jlaws »

Eric , the oil pressure switch just screws into the block and is an easy fix . I have seen them leak out of the end where the metal body and plastic terminal cap meet .
You might want to clean that area of the engine good before you change the switch , start it and watch for leaks because if I remember correctly the 1811 also has remote oil lines on that side and they are also very prone to leak from the rubber lines dry rotting and cracking from years of service .
I see a lot of cub cadets while going down the tracks , its a shame I can't pull over and ask about them .

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ReicheP
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by ReicheP »

That leaking switch is a common issue with the 1811, easy R&R, pull the RH engine cover for access.
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eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks for the help. Ordering the switch today. Hopefully will be able to get it cleaned up this week!

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Got back up to Maine this weekend and the 1811 started under its own power (once I remembered to open the fuel line :oops: ) I got the shroud off and replaced the oil pressure switch with out much unexpected trouble. I let it run for a bit and no leaks from the switch but I did notice another leak from the front of the engine area. It appears to be coming from behind the pto and is dripping on to the frame.
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From what I have read it is most likely the front engine seal and is not an unusual problem with this engine. Am I also correct that I would have to remove the pto to be able to visually inspect the seal? It also seems like does not always work the first time??? Is this a mean job or fairly straight forward.
Thanks in advance for any/all advice.
Eric

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dag1450
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by dag1450 »

Good job on the oil pressure sending unit. As to the front seal...i did one a few years ago on my 1811. I dont remember it being too hard. My engine was out of the tractor so i did have that going for me, but dont forget....the cub front-end and hood come off as one unit w only four bolts and a couple wires. There may b enough room to do the job.....but who likes working in or through a grill opening :lol: From the looks of your pic, start lubing things up now...everything that u might put a wrench on. Once the pto is off, u could drill two small holes in the center of the seal on opposite sides to gently put some screaws in to pull on. I then found a piece of pvc pipe to use as an install tool. I would also make sure u check or while its open replace the breather for the crankcase. This is up under the carb area on the top of the engine. It has a tube that runs up to the base plate of the air cleaner. This can get gunked up and cause a build up of pressure to blowout seals....like in my case....when i removed the pto, the seal was already out :shock: Good luck and keep us posted! Dave
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eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks Everyone for the input. Can anyone confirm the part number of the seal I need. Kohler 18 magnum, leak is from the PTO end of engine. Is this the "rear" of the engine but the "front" of the tractor? I think I need KH-52-032-10-s which is listed as #22 seal ?? :dontknow:
Thanks in advance
Eric

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by indy61 »

X-583-5-S is the Kohler # for the rear (pto side) crankshaft seal for the M18.
A better option, in my opinion, is a SKF seal.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0349835347

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks Bill, I have read other posts that agree with your opinion. Also have read that many doing this repair use permatex "glue" the seal in. Do you feel this is also neccesary, or is the napa bearing better fit/quality so permatex is not needed?

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by indy61 »

The SKF seal has a blue bore tite coating on the outer edge, no need for any type of sealant. If my memory serves correct, the KT17 service manual says to use a sealant on the Kohler seal but the M18 manual does not.

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indy61
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by indy61 »

This is from the KT17 service manual.
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eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks everyone for the information about this seal replacement. Haven't taken the chance to dig into it yet but, I am am curious to get a feeling on the amount of time I should expect to dedicate to this task? Are we talking single hours or double digit hours. This will be the first time I have done one so the inexperience factor will probably be an issue.
Thanks
Eric

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dag1450
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by dag1450 »

1 hr to get side covers, hood and grill and mule belt off....2 hrs to get the muffler, pto off & drain oil.....1 hr to get old seal out......1/4 hr to install new seal.....1/4 hr to look at it and question if u did a good job......2 hours to get it back together. Add 4 hrs for one rusted or frozen bolt. Good luck
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eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks everyone for the advice and help. Finally got it home from Maine and now it won't start. Coughs once then nothing, but engine turns over. I think I may have flooded it and run down the battery at the same time so will give it a rest and see what happens tomorrow.
One other question about the pto, does it come off by removing the 3 bolts on the flange behind it or am I after the set screws I understand to be troublesome? I hope I can get to it this weekend!
Thanks

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Jlaws
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by Jlaws »

Eric , No its not the three nuts part # 5 with the springs , its the 4 bolts behind those three nut .
You have to remove 2 hex bolts part # 6 at the bottom and 2 stud bolts part # 13 at the top . The crank bolt and washer #10 and 11 also have to come off . If you take out the crank bolt and the other 4 bolts it should slide right off the crankshaft .
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I see a lot of cub cadets while going down the tracks , its a shame I can't pull over and ask about them .

eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

That is a great diagram, thank you very much!

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

So I got the 1811 from ME to MA with out any trouble....or so I thought. Wouldn't start to drive off the truck???
The issue turned out to be that I did not shut off the fuel line and a significant amount of gas ended up in the crankcase! So...the happy ending to the story is that after new plugs, oil filter, and oil change (with the help of a jumper box because I think I ran the battery down cranking on it) it fired up and was put into service hauling 2 small trailer loads of mulch around the yard! I did hear some whine coming from the rear end so I think a fluid change in the rear end is probably lined up for next weekend and also it seems the forward/reverse lever seems to be hanging up on something. I hope it is just the a matter of something needing lubrication.

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by JMotuzick »

Eric
When u have the rear cover off to drain the oil out be sure to add a breather to the top of the trainsmision. To do this you will need to remove the fenders and battery box a bit more time but well worth it as if you don't every time u add oil it will just burp right out of your Funel! This mod is needed on 80's tractors but by the mid 90's was done at the factory.

Tell your dealer you want a creeper heather for a 126 122 1806 etc all the same part. Don't forget oil a rear gasket and a hydro filter.
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by ReicheP »

How is this breather installed? Anyone have a part number for this breather?
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by JMotuzick »

Paul
It's threaded 1/8 pipe you'll need to drill and tap. P/n 723-3021

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks for that advice Joe. Is the breather neccessary for the transmission to work properly or is it so that you can add fluid without it making such a mess burping out of the funnel?

Maybe this is a quesion of preference but should the tractor remain at idle with the throttle lever pulled all the way down or stall out?? Earlier today the engine was running up a little and then backing off at 1/4 throttle but smoothed out at 1/2 throttle. Because it smoothed out I was thinking I should adjust the carb screws but wanted to ask first.

This 1811 is the first "rescue tractor" that has followed me home. I think someone tried to get to the oil leak previously but threw in the towel after a few hours of exploratory wrenching. The more I get into it the more parts and pieces I find missing. I am sure there is a pile of nuts/bolts/screws in a pile somewhere that should go to this jewel!!

Thanks aginn for all the help

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by red82s »

It should idle smooth with the throttle lever all the way down. Also your rpms shouldn't fluctuate if you're not moving the throttle control. I had a similar issue and had to rebuild the carb and reset the governor arm.
Adrian

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by ReicheP »

JMotuzick wrote:Paul
It's threaded 1/8 pipe you'll need to drill and tap. P/n 723-3021
Joe thanks, so I assume these rears are only vented through the dip stick?
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by JMotuzick »

Paul/Eric
The only vent is through the top of the dipstick tube. Once you take the cap off and fill that tube with oil it makes a mess when filling. the breather was added as standard equipment later on in the cyclops series. I add them to all my 82 seres workers when i do flip changes.

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

I am really liking this 1811. It is still in rough shape but I have been using it around the yard to do some light hauling. The steering is sloppy and still runs a little rough but I can see the potential of this machine.
Now that I have a reasonable idea of what I need to do regarding the basic mechanical issues (thanks to this forum :thumbsup:) I am starting to think about the implements I have and what will work. That sadly lead the discovery of other shortcomings with parts and pieces...
1)I have a front blade for a wide frame, that should not be a problem to use.
2) Model 1 ? rear mounted tiller. Can be used but needs adapter which is hard to find. Also alumimun rear end of 1811 may be an issue?
3) Agri-fab rear mounted blade/scarifier. Sleeve hitch needed so lift arm/3pt hitch needed. I DO have a lift arm/3 pt hitch on my 1650 skeleton, will it swap over to the 1811?

Anyone is welcome to confirm or deny!'
Thank you

eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Hi Everyone,
I need a little direction. On my 1811 the speed control lever will only push about half way up the slot for forward speed. I started the hydro neutral adjustment as I thought that might be the issue but had no wheel spin when the tractor's rear wheels were off the ground so I didn't proceed. I have poked around the forum but can't seem to find what a next step would be to get more speed.
Thanks in advance

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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by Tom Scott »

Eric - Look for something binding. Referring to the following diagram: http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cade ... -controls/

Disconnect the rod linkage ball joint (17) and check the hydro control lever/cross shaft (20) for binding. If so, check for problems where the friction disc (21) and other end of shaft connect. The tightness of the nut (23) puts the pressure on the friction disc, it is possible that is too tight, but not likely.

If that is fine, turn your attention to the hydro control cam (10) and how it is interacting with the brake control rod. (Remember the parking brake must be off for it to move.) Disconnect the brake rod temporarily if needed to diagnose. Something is likely worn/binding in there somewhere. Less likely is that the hydro itself is binding internally and won't allow the full throw.

Trouble shooting is divide and conquer. Take your time and see how it is all supposed to work and see where it is hanging up.
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eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Thanks Tom,
I have referenced that diagram a dozen times and all looked in order until today when I looked at things with the diagram in my hand. I suspect my trouble may be that the ball joint on the hydro end of the connecting rod is on the wrong side of the plate causing it to be at an angle and the end of the ball joint is hitting one of the othe pieces when the speed control lever is about half way up.I will give it a go tomorrow and report any success. Thanks again for the tip.

To be fair this tractor did sit out in the finest of New England's seasons for years so I have not ruled out completely the chance of the hydro being the issue.
Eric

eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

So I got a little time in today on the 1811. No improvement in speed lever travel but I did notice that the stud on the control arm hits the cam pivot bracket before it moves completely into the corner as I push the speed control lever up.
Is this a situation where I should move the cam pivot bracket of adjust the control rod? My neutral does not have any creep in it and speed seems to be steady when in motion.
Image is taken with seed control lever pushed as far up the slot as I can get it to go.
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Thanks
Eric

eplummer
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Re: 1811 back from the dead

Post by eplummer »

Swapped batteries on my 1811 because I was not getting much in the way of cranking rpm, even with a jumper box. Reversed the leads DUH :oops: :banghead: Swapped them so they are connected correctly, oil light comes on as normal but on full cycle of key switch ....nothing and oil light does not come back on. I did figure out that I blow the fuse each time I cycle the key. Could I have fried the key switch or solenoid? Tried laying a screwdriver across solenoid but nothing from that either.

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