1811 back from the dead

[eplummer]

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Could this be the cause of my electrical woes......one step forward, 2 steps backward!

[SWilliams]

Well that's not how the factory wired them.......

[eplummer]

I agree! I count 6 wires and 5 slots on the switch. I looked up the wiring diagram and it looks to me like the two white wires go to the same tab? Does this seem like reasonable logic? or should there be a 2 into 1 then onto the tab in the switch?

[SWilliams]

Both whites get crimped into the same connector. While you're there pull all the connections and clean them and apply some grease to keep them from corroding.

[eplummer]

Hi Everyone,
Put in some time today taking off the hood and other bolts to gain access to the rear oil seal. Things went surprisingly smooth as far getting things loose. I need some advice on how to remove the crank bolt? Is there a way to wedge or hold the collar that is spinning that is behind the pto when I turn the bolt?
Thanks
Eric

[Tom Scott]

Eric - This is that junction in your life where you justify an impact gun. If you don't have an air compressor, then your cost just went up considerably to make the jump.

If do have the compressor (or can afford to buy one), you won't regret getting the air impact gun. You don't need one often and shouldn't be used on many jobs, but this is one of the jobs where they shine. You would have that bolt out in less time than it takes to go hook it up.

Alternatively, there are electric impacts, but I am not a fan of them. Someone may come along that has a good experience with them, mine is just one opinion.

Finally, if an impact gun just isn't in the cards, you can have a helper hold the driveshaft using either the front or rear coupler. Might be able to "carefully" wedge a pry-bar against a the coupler bolts and frame. I'm hesitating as I suggest this, because you could hurt a coupler if your not careful. You might be able to use a strap wrench around the rear rag joints as well.

Resist the urge to hold the driveshaft with a pipe wrench, it will mar it up bad.

Good Luck, let us know how you do!

[JMotuzick]

While I have 3 battery impact guns no wait 4 at home and one at work air is still in the tool box and comes out more often then one would think! Two of my battery guns are 14.4v 1/2" drive dewalts they are both going on 10 years and are well used! One lives in the trailer tool box and is just for the bolts that hold my home made ramps in place. The main gun is a 18v dewalt 1/2 drive. It gets used a lot around here. The PTO bolt would probably come off with this gun, it's newer and still has a lot of power. The last is a 1/4" dewalt. It works great for 1/4" stuff and normally has a 7/16 socket in it. Also very handy for screws for other projects. The air gun comes out for those stroborn big nuts bolts. Like blade bolts that have not been off since ragen was in office.... At work we have other brands of cordless all have there place I think I'm switching to Milwaukee for my next cordless set, I just bought a cordless band saw for work and it sure is sweet!!!!!

[eplummer]

So....I might have to buy a new tool??? That's to bad...not. I did get a black and decker tool kit with various attachments for Christmas. One says it is an impact tool, guess I will check it out.
Thank you again for all the help.
Eric

[dag1450]

Impacts r great....but I don't always feel like turning on the compressor, pulling the hose, bla bla. I try a quick smack w the hand on the end of the rachet handle. If that don't work....I move to a 2' long 2x4. A couple sharp blows sometimes will work. If not....then u need the impact! Yesterday I just took off the PTO and flywheel on my 20. I used my fist for both....but I probably should have used a block of wood To remove the PTO....remove 4 backing bolts..... lubed the crank shaft w penitrat..... Installed the bolt back in the crank a few turns shy of tight....then tapped on the bolt head while pulling on the PTO assembly. It should start to walk off.

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[eplummer]

Thanks again everyone for the input. I borrowed an Impact gun from my brother in law and had the bolt loose in 2 pulls on the trigger. Worked the assembly as suggested by dag1450 and had the PTO off in under 5 minutes.
What a dirty mess! The existing seal was pushed out on one side. I was able to work it out with a mini screwdriver and some patients. I used a piece of pvc pipe to drive the seal in. Was a little unsure at first but it did eventually drive in to the correct depth...maybe a little more? Filled crankcase with oil and put a paper towel under shaft. Hope that it is still a white paper towel in the morning!
Top photo is the before and bottom is the after.

Next question, does the key slide into the groove first, then the pto ? Or pto first then slide the key into the groove? If the key goes in second how far down the groove?

[dag1450]

Not exactly sure what u r asking but I think this is what u want. Put the key in the shaft...as u r sliding the PTO on the shaft line the key up in the groove. As u push the PTO back it should set the key just where it needs to b. I'm telling u this from memory... I will look tomorrow.

[eplummer]

Thanks. I think that tells me what I need to know. Kind of 1 step forward and 2 steps back today. Bought a new breather element but discovered that the gasket had a tear in it. Of course I broke it into 2 pieces. It was really brittle. So I will try and get a new gasket tomorrow and get the breather put back together. I did manage to clean out some more of the dirt, grass and caked on oil that had built up over the years.
Thanks again for the help.

[Tom Scott]

As far as the pto removal method, it is safer to tighten the crank bolt back down on some washers that are small enough for the pto to slide over it.

By doing this the entire crank snout takes the force, which is where you want the impact anyway, and that way you are not relying on the threads to take that kind of force. Also, best to use a shot filled no bounce or a brass hammer, best to avoid steel-on-steel impact so less likely to damage object being struck.

Good job on the progress!

[eplummer]

Update on the 1811. No visible leaks from the oil seal when the engine was running....did notice a pool of oil on the right side engine rail but not until I had shut the engine off so don't know if it was just a drip or a leak? Maybe will figure it out this weekend. I am suspect of the external oil line. Also some leaking from the left nut on top of the hydro. I hope that is as simple as an o ring. I guess I have a few (more) things to investigate.
Dag1450-Thanks for the advice on the key way. I did a test re install and it seemed to be perfect.

[eplummer]

Hi Everyone, Could someone please confirm/deny a few questions I have regarding wide frames?
IH wide frames (1650) have a cast iron rear end, CCC wideframes (1811)have an aluminum rear end?
The IH wide frames are more rugged and could take the weight of a rear mounted tiller, the aluminum rear ends..not so much
Will the lift bar and rear casting of the 3pt hitch from the 1650 fit and operate on the 1811?

I have an agri-fab box scraper with a sleeve hitch that I would like to pull behind the 1811 as it closer to being operational than the 1650 and will "borrow" the lift components from the 1650. Being able to raise and lower it will sure make things more enjoyable.
Thanks
Eric

[dag1450]

Let me start by saying I have no 3 PT hitch... So this is just me thinking out loud. The upper cast piece will probably work on the 1811. The the lift rod I have no idea. My main concern and I think yours would be mostly where the lower part of the hitch bolts to the cast aluminum rear housing. That sounds like trouble. They make a rear frame plate ( recently heard it referred to as a bagger plate) that u could install first then some how bolt the lower part of the hitch to that. That would transfer most or all the stress up to the frame and not the rear. But....u may then have to cut out for different things to work with that plate installed. Rear braces would also b a must. I would not bolt directly the rear without some major beefing up somehow. This is a good topic Eric.. Maybe others have done this and lets hope they can shed some light on this for u. Dave.

[stevet]

What you can actually do is buy a 3 pt hitch for a 782 with the Frankenstein bolts and buy the lower bracket from xtreme motorworks designed for the aluminum rears. It will have 2 tabs that attach to the axle tubes as well as the back plate, which I've heard of people having good luck with. The 782 3 pt will have the correct casting and lift bar for the 1811. I think your casting from the 1650 will work, but you definitely need the Frankenstein bolts. The lift bar I'm not certain about.

[eplummer]

Thanks for the input. In any event if I want to do much more than pull a garden cart I should make some changes to the rear end. So..working from the rear end out I would need the back/bagger plate which the 3 point hitch would attach to, then the brinly sleeve hitch would attach to that, and the scraper blade/scarifier would attach to the brinly hitch.

I noticed on the xtreme website they have a 3 hole and a 4 hole option for the u-shaped piece, is it just a matter of more holes more options?
Thanks

[JMotuzick]

I made my own super bottom link for the sleeve hitch. I have been running it on my 1872 for like 5-8 years now with no issues. The 3 point has its own "bagger plate" it will cost about 500. Then the a-frame adaptor is about 1-150 more. Just use the sleeve hitch and the cast aluminum rear bottom plate from extreme attritional bring the adapter and then you can run your greader box....

[eplummer]

Hi All,
I have been using the 1811 Frankentractor through out the fall for light duty, pushing leaves and dirt around to make a walking path through the woods. Not having 100% confidence in my task of replacing the engine seal I did not replace the pto 6 months ago. Now, the shaft has a lot of surface rust and I am thinking I should put the PTO back on as my seal replacement seems to be a success. ( I might want to push my luck and run a snowblower on it??) Can anyone offer a process to remove the rust? Chemically or physically??
And, a related concern....before I took it off the pto would engage when the switch was engaged but would stop after a few seconds even though the switch stays on.
As always thanks to everyone for their input!
Eric

[dag1450]

Good job on the seal! As for the rust, If your brave.....No I will not suggest that . Plan b would b sand with a like a 220 wet paper and maybe use a light oil as u sand. I can't believe it's that rusty. It might not get back to the shine of fresh turned....But should get the pto on. I would hesitate using chemicals unless u r super careful around the new seal.....And u already own them. Try the paper....Like u r shining a shoe.

[Oak]

+1 on what dag said.

pto, look in the manual and check/adjust the air gap. It is an easy job to do.

[eplummer]

I think the shoe shine method is excellent advice and the direction I was leaning. Will give it a go later today, hopefully!

Oak...what is this "manual" you speak of??? Thanks, I have it downloaded so will reference. Don't know what an air gap is or what it is for but I will research that too.

Thanks again for the help!
Eric

[eplummer]

Hey Everyone, Got the PTO back on and there is power to it, at least I can hear the click when I engage the switch. Tractor wouldn't start. But it has been in the 20's here in Massachusetts and was in the single digits yesterday when I tried. The engine would crank but I don't think fast enough to generate spark. I have not changed over to the winter weight oil, could the cold temperatures make the engine oil so thick it would lug the down the engine?

[JMotuzick]

eric
oil temps in both the engine and the rear end and a weak battery all will make it hard to start!
A few years ago i bought a magnetic block heater at tsc it works good and when stuck right on a rear over night it makes a hard starter fire right up!

[dag1450]

Joe is right.....Cold and tractors don't mix. I just want to point out..The block heater is a grt idea on the rear. And one would think do it on the engine also....Well that's not as easy. There is Litterly no spot for a stick on block heater. Now they do make dip stick heaters. A couple years ago....For an experiment..I aimed a hair dryer right in the front exhaust tin work to blow on the cylinders if u will. Had it on for about a half hr I think. Most times when it's cold like this....It takes something creative to get them going.
One last thing. All batteries r not created equal. For winter u need the best lawn tractor battery u can get. I think it might b like a 340 CCA?

[eplummer]

Thanks once again for the input. I had thought about redneck engineering an old heating pad by adding a couple of magnetic strips to accomplish the same thing, but haven't done it. Less hassle if I buy one! I used a dip stick heater on my car years ago when I lived in Maine without a garage, it worked pretty well. Will check out the CCA's on the battery.
Temps are supposed to reach the low 50's here on Thursday, maybe that will be a good day to try again.

[michael]

not its not a parachute.its my solution to cold weather cranks. 800cca.

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[eplummer]

So..This didn't look just right...I didn't think that there should be a gap between the top and the bottom of the plate on the back of the PTO. My take away is that I should not try to reassemble anything from memory

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The plate is not flush after reassembly but much closer...I must have pulled it out of shape when I put the PTO on the first time. The gap is still bigger than I am comfortable with so might try to persuade it back to flat with some sort of press. Will update as (if) progress is made.

[dag1450]

Pto sets flush against the block. If it's not....I would bend it back till it does

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