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Wow....that's a great offer Joe. I hope that works out for him!
What kind of show is this Joe? Get some pics for us.....

We do 3 shows a year at the old Zagray homestead. Big flea market for old iron, the "sand box" is about 2 acres for all the bigger toys, mostly cable. The sawmill is the oldest in the state with a 54" circular blade. Our newest attraction houses old
Engines, we are working on a 22 ton 4 cyl. Fairbanks and a 6 cylinder atlas both from the 20's. For more info http://www.qvea.org. This is all I have in my phone, check out the web site for more info/pic!

Sorry I missed the show! I will make it to one someday!
Swapping some external components from the seized m18 to the new to me m18. I need some help, specifically with the fuel pump/gasket. Looking at the manual diagram it shows a gasket with a rectangular shaped cutout.( KH-52-041-17)

I don't think this was present when I swapped it over. Although I was expecting to see one I didn't look at the diagram until after I had done the swap. The fuel pump looks like it may be newer than original, was there a design change in these pumps that would eliminate the need for this gasket? Or...if this gasket should have been there and if had been missing would it contribute to the massive amount of carbon build up I have found.
Thanks for any input.
Eric

Most of the newer pumps have a thin "spaghetti" gasket that fits into a groove on the base. The couple I have installed have been a red rubber kinda material.

Eric - This gasket seals the fuel pump to the crankcase to prevent oil leaks and to keep dirt out. As dag says, I believe the replacement pumps have an o-ring type gasket pressed into the pump body. It would be nice to know that your pump is indeed sealed, as you certainly don't want dirt in the crankcase or oil leaking out.

You may be able to look at the donor engine and see the thin outline the o-ring type gasket would have left. If so, you should be fine, you shouldn't need the paper gasket. If not sure, then if the engine is still out and it is convenient, just unbolt the pump and take a look.

Either way, this would not have anything to do with carbon build-up. The gasket simply seals the crankcase from the outside world, keeping oil in and dirt out.

Thanks for the info. The red spaghetti gasket is there. Didnt know if there should be the other one as well. Won't bother with the paper gasket then. Hope to get the heads and air cleaner, and starter on today.

Yeah, you're good to go, the "red spaghetti" is the gasket!

Take a look at the Magnum manual for the head and new head gasket installation procedure, the manual will have the proper torques specs and torquing pattern. The starter bendix should be cleaned with something that dries without residue (like Brake Cleaner) and only lubricated with dry graphite powder. Any other lube will attract dirt and lead to a non-working starter. The starters are known for needing this graphite service, so now is your chance to take care of it.

Thanks for that tips. I have not even picked up a wrench today, the honey do list really cut into the cub list! Maybe tomorrow???? Happy Mothers Day Hon...the kids got you a new torque wrench. Let me show you how to use it!

Good one Eric..... I guess we r all the same!

After a long layoff I was able to get some time on the engine swap process on the 1811. The donor engine was resting on 2 steel slabs and the engine cradle looked somewhat tweaked so took the cradle and spacers off the seized engine. Not much of a struggle...but 2 of the bolts had washers on them and 2 did not?? Did I just lose 2 washers or is there a specific pattern for the bolts with and without washers. I poked around the manual section but didn't find anything that specific.
Thanks for any input.
Eric

I would install a washer on all 4. Clean up the nuts and bolts with some carb or brake clean then use a thread locker on them. Does that have the "fancy" nut with the finger behind the starter?

Got the engine plate on to the new to me m18, does it look correct? Put a washer on each bolt, finger tight at this point. Hope to get it tightened up and engine back in frame this weekend.

Hard to say but.... washers, spacers, and locktite and should be good. Next....make sure all cylinder cooling fins r clean then install tin. I have even installed muffler box tin before install.....it's much easier on the bench. Keep the pics coming. Let's see what u r using for an engine lift.....every one uses different stuff.....

eplummer wrote:

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Got the engine plate on to the new to me m18, does it look correct? Put a washer on each bolt, finger tight at this point. Hope to get it tightened up and engine back in frame this weekend.

Eric, what is the lighter for? Kind of an "in emergency-Break glass" thing in reverse?

Not sure why the lighter is there?? I Could have been sneaking a cheap cigar out in the shed. Only to keep the mosquitos away of course! Sadly no forward progress since this picture was taken. Has some issues with the Ariens ride on that drew my attention away from cubs.

Dag1450 thanks for the insight to put the tins on before in goes back in the tractor. I would have not thought to do that. Not sure I will be completely comfortable doing it the easy way first!

So the Ariens is back in service and I am back to cubs. Tightened the engine plate bolts, swapped over the governor arm and spring, gathered the engine tins. Some patina to scrape off but not to bad. The little progress I have made has raised some questions though.
#1 When I look at the diagram of the tins it shows 2 types of screws but not much in the way of where to use the different types??
#2 Is there an specific order of reassembly for the tins.
#3 does it make sense make sure the engine at least is getting spark etc before it gets tins and before it goes into the frame?
As always thanks in advance for the great insight and knowledge.
Eric

On the tins....just start messing around and look for clues as to paint wear patterns. Flywheel first....then sides...then pto end. Screws....not sure I have seen different ones. I remember a few Really short ones...they go under the pto end I think under the oil lines? Maybe one holds the engine ID tag too....idk.
As far as testing the ignition coil in the mag.....the Kohler manual has it in section 8.3. It's a bench test with a muti meter. Good thinking Eric.....there might be some other test in there that u should proform as well.

As dag says, the tins should make sense as they go. Just don't manhandle anything, and you will be fine.

On the magneto, the tests in the manual are simple with a mult-meter and will identify a magneto that is bad at that time. I only mention this because you could have a magneto that doesn't show bad until the engine gets hot, but I think this is rare. When mine died, that was it, it was not intermittent. Manual is linked through our "Documents and Manuals" section in the blue header bar above. Here is a shortcut: downloads.php?view=detail&df_id=17

Keep plugging along, you'll be done before you know it!

Thanks for the advice. Good thinking is not a response I am used to hearing!! I thought I had done a good job of bagging and tagging the old screws but don't know where they are! I was thinking of starting the engine on the bench but using a multi meter sounds like a way better idea. I will start plugging away.

1/4-20 1/2 just buy a 50 pack from macmaster-Carr I use the wiz bolts 3/8 head almost the same
As what kohler used. Same bolt for all the tin work.

Got the tins on the 1811 and oil lines connected. Swapped over the drive cup but have a question about the drive shaft assembly. I think that this piece fits into the assembly flange and the drive shaft slides into it. One of the sides looks shiny and I think that side is the one that fits into the flange?? Everything else looks fairly straight forward. Thanks for the input.

Oh man... . Part # 903-0204. You need a new one....that's not supposed to come out. eBay has after market for $25. Cub is probably $30 something.
I apply grease to everything on re assembly.

It did look worn on one side. Am I correct in thinking it should be part of the drive assembly flange? 903-0204? I can push it back in with my fingers and hear a little click and it will stay there but it is not to hard to knock it back out. I guess $ 2O-30 is fairly cheap for piece of mind.

Eric - +1 on dag's advice. Buy a new complete part, yours is toast.

A whole loaf of toast so far! But I am enjoying the learning curve although it has been a steep one. Just to check my understanding....the drive shaft slides into this flange...which is screwed to the drive cup.....which is bolted to the rag joint? Thanks for the for the help!

Yes sounds like u have it right. Make sure the nuts on the rag joint r lock nuts. Factory ones have a square indent on a side of the hex. U should b able to start threading them on but then u won't b able to got to far without wrenches. These nuts don't hold the whole tractor together....so make sure u don't over tighten. Have to find a happy medium. If unsure of order ... reference a pic on the web. Parts tree comes to mind.
Make sure u grease the ball and shaft....

Those after market balls are made by the OEM that makes them for CCC. One of our forum guys right here is the seller. He gets about $10 each

Hi Again,
The replacement engine I bought for the 1811 did not come with a carb. No problem I swapped the one I had from the seized engine over. Went to look for the choke linkage and couldn't find it . Thought it would be similar to the QL set up. After consulting parts tree I didn't even see a part listed that would serve the similar function. Then the cob webs cleared a little, does the choke cable connect directly to the choke lever on the M18??
Thanks
Eric
P.s.Have not greased the ball and shaft yet....waiting for payday to place an order.

eric
let me know if you want a ball i'll make a call and one will be there Saturday.
choke does hook directly to the choke shaft, QL is the only series it does not!

I would appreciate if you could have the part there for the weekend. It looks like Sunday will work out for me after all. Is the ball a separate piece or is the whole flange assembly part of the ball? Either way I need one. In fact if you know of a used parts dealer that will be there on Sunday I will get together a list and contact them directly. I need a few odds and ends. Will also try and bring some parts and pieces to swap or trade. If, that opportunity is part of the show.
Thanks
Eric