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My 1862 was well worn - While rebuilding the engine I decided to take off the flywheel, when I did one of the permanent magnets fell of the inside (alternator) which appeared to have been glued in place, I cleaned it and the flywheel surface. I tapped vigorously on the other weights with a small plastic hammer and one of the other weights came loose that was next to the one first off, both had s slight film of rust on the mounting site (flywheel) which I polished off with fine emery cloth, and the magnets themselves. I then reattached the magnets with Permatex permanent stud locker. The magnets appear well attached and did not dislodge when tapped on. My question ( I have not completed the rebuild) should I have replaced the flywheel as my parts guy advised or just suck it up and forge on?

Next the 2554, which is a decent tractor but suffers from a (in my opinion) poor mower deck, it is a 50" I think. I bought this tractor/mower while my 1862 is down for repairs. It just flat doesn't mow well and can not be set below 4" mowing height. I had the deck off and fiddled with all the mower suspension adjustments to no avail. I suspect it is all in the adjustments but am not sure. This deck has eccentric mounted wheels on the front and both the rear wheel/mountings have been replaced but are useable. The rear of the deck sits too high in the rear when the deck is lowered and is too low in back when the deck is raised! Any hints short of blasting materials use would be appreciated.
Phil Mc

Phil
I can not comment on the 2550.
As for the 1862 as long as the magnets are in the right location/polarity I would just use the flywheel you have. It sounds to me like you have done the right thing by checking the other magnets and I belive that permitex was the original adheiseve used to mount the magnets.

Thank you MJ on the magnet issue.... Phil

Good job on the magnets Phil. What I'm wondering is more about the engine rebuild in general. Is yours a magnum 18? I have a tired but still running good mag 20 that I would consider rebuilding if I knew there would be no road blocks from lack of parts......and if it does not exceed my skills. I don't have any real special rebuilding tools. Could u go into a few details on some of the more complex jobs. Are u sending any jobs out like machine work....valves....? Did u need to do any crank work like turning....or just put in stock bearings....connecting rods? Thanks much. Dave

Dave - I know you hate it when I bring up factory manuals, but if any job demands a factory manual, it is an engine rebuild.

I am sure you can find opinions about doing a "lesser job", but skipping any of the proper steps in rebuilding any engine is just likely to cost you more money, heartache and time than doing it right.

So what is "right"? In simple terms, rebuilding means tearing down and checking all wear areas for and comparing them to the acceptable tolerance. Rebuilding an engine doesn't have to mean replacing everything, but doing it properly must mean checking everything.

My experience is automotive engines, but the same ideas apply. In general, you will be disassembling and comparing all the measured and observed conditions of the engine to the specs given in the manual. The manual will tell you the maximum/minimum sizes for all the wear items. So things like rod and crank journals are measured and compared to given specs. If within the specs and meeting the observed conditions (like free from scratches, galling, etc.) you may choose not to have the crank turned, or replace certain other parts. But, most tired engines will need cylinders bored and honed, over sized pistons and rings for the new bore, crank journals turned and new bearings to match the turned crank, and probably valve work. And with any Magnum, don't forget the all important new governor, no matter how good the old one looks!

The point is, you want to make informed decisions during a rebuild. If you find that the crank and rod journals are well within tolerance, you could make the decision to leave them be. But if you find that the crank is close to the acceptable limit for wear, you wouldn't want to reinstall it without having it turned and replacing the bearings with the correct "new size". The time and labor investment is big enough that you want to do it right while you are there.

I guess that was the long answer. The short answer is "Yes, you will need a machine shop to do the likely required boring and honing of the block and turning of the crank. You may also need their help replacing valve guides and getting the valve seats in spec again." The Magnum manual is available on Kohler's site and is probably in our manuals section. It gives a step by step guide of disassembly, measurement, repair and reassembly.

From what I have heard, the Magnum parts are still available, but not cheap. But...nothing I have bought for these things has ever been cheap!

Couple of books

dag1450(Dave), Tom S., Swilliams.
Thanks for all your posts and good information regarding my Kohler 18 magnum.
I have acreage to mow and rely on a Woods F 21 D, 72" for that. I use the 1862 for light hauling, spraying and some blade work, only occasional use for rough mowing. I could only find standard sized piston's and rings. The lower end parts were all still tight and bright and were reused. I honed the bore a bit and installed the new standard pistons and rings ( they will have plenty of clearance ). New valve guides and a couple of new seats were installed ( by a local machinist). A couple of the valves had to be clearanced ( to tight) the other 2 were a bit wide but I think OK for my needs. Replaced gaskets and re-brushed the starter and that's as far as I've gotten. I have gotten good use of the on line manuals for this engine.
As the metal and plastic parts need to be repaired and repainted I am going to change the colors to IH red and white, unless convinced otherwise! I am hoping the Hydro is Ok, it seemed good when I stopped using it and I will change the fluid and filter.. The wiring which I have read is problematic on these will be inspected and repaired if not to hateful.
Thanks for looking and helping... Phil
P.S. Apparently I need a good manual on adjusting the mower on the GT 2554!

Thanks guys for your help. Good luck Phil and make sure u keep us posted on the rebuild.

1862 Wiring - 2554 Owners - 2000 Series decks -

SWilliams: Thanks for the PDF files. Have used all 3 to good advantage... Phil