my new toy

[stevet]

I didn't use additional braces when I fixed mine. I swapped out to a good, used housing ($50) and when I reassembled everything I used the red Loctite to ensure the bolts don't back out, especially where the front mounts are. This is what usually causes the mounts to break in the first place. I will also qualify this by stating that I do have a Cat 0 3 pt hitch on mine which helps stabilize everything from the rear of the tractor. I wanted to have the housing replaced and taken care of correctly instead of leaving the broken housing. In addition, there were other areas of the old housing that had been compromised by not being repaired correctly over time, so just seemed like the all around best bet for me.

[9803412]

I'm not going to get into an argument over if you should or should not buy the Xtreme braces. Your $$$$ and your tractor. Just so that you know I do not make anything from the sales of them, I sold the design rights to Xtreme so I'm out of it. If you enjoy rebuilding rear ends don't let me stop your fun. I've done enough of them.

Joe I sent you an e-mail. Holler if you need more info. See ya.

[JoeK]

the only thing that is going to "work" this tractor will be plowing and maybe a blade on the front from time to time, until i get a place of my own a 60" mower is just over kill in town heck my 54" is overkill in town

[dag1450]

http://www.pattonacres.com/cub-cadet-re ... 1810-1811/ This should fit? but im more just showing as a reference. I think mine is off a cyclops model i found at a local cub salvage yard. All this hot air coming out of me....and i dont even have mine installed.

[Tom Scott]

This thread has gotten a few days old, and I am too lazy to re-read it all, so random comments from me here based on my memory of the discussion...

It is my opinion that while the rear frame hitch plate (bagger plate) helps tie the two sides together, it is not enough on its own to prevent aluminum rear and adapter housing breakage. My 2182-2 obviously had the factory hitch plate and still came to me with the broken adapter housing. The full Super factory 3-point hitch setup is better as it helps tie the rear into the frame, but I doubt it is enough on its own to be safe.

As good as these machines are, it is just a bad design for long term use with the aluminum. From what I have seen, I believe the best insurance is to install braces, be it a simple flat bar type that I made or the swank XMW ones. The biggest problem is with what Cub added for Supers to try for more strength; the front brackets for the adapter housing mount with two bolts, vs one for a standard GT. If there is any movement due to loose bolts, the front brackets can't pivot, and break the weakest link which is the adapter housing. It is tempting to leave one of the two bolts out of the frame connection so that this binding cannot happen, or...

Install braces. That being said, as much as I believe in them, I only have them on the one tractor. Somehow all of the rest of life's pressures comes before proactively adding braces to the other two Supers. I hope I don't regret not getting to it sooner one day. I do have the factory 3-point on 2182-1, but I still want to add braces.

Steve's point of making sure the bolts stay tight is very important. I chose to use Permatex #2 on my bolts as the tough gum resists turning but is not disturbed by retorquing. Red Loctite is much stronger, but not as dependable if it turns on retorquing; choose your own poison...

I try to make it a fall ritual to set the torque wrench to 30 ft-lb and hit every 3/8" bolt attaching the axle tubes, frame connections and adapter housing hanger bolts. Keeping the bolts properly tight is the easiest, best bang for the buck maintenance item.

[stevet]

Good suggestions Tom. I wasn't at all suggesting braces weren't an alternative route to go, unfortunately I don't have the ability to make them myself and I felt it was important to start with a solid housing first.

I do like the idea of Permatex #2, I hadn't given that any consideration when I reinstalled mine. As you said, checking the bolts periodically will crtainly help alleviate the problem.

[Tom Scott]

Steve - Check my Cinderella thread; my braces are just made from flat stock, no bending or welding required. Some flat stock, a hacksaw and a drill are all you need. I made a wood template from thin plywood veneer to get the sizing correct first, makes for less mistakes. My buddy keiths here made a similar set in his "NUsed Adapter Housing" thread.

I also like the Permatex #2 for the threads of the bolts that retain the axle tubes. Permatex #2 will seal in the presence of oil residue, and often you are in a situation where it isn't practical to get every last trace of oil out of the housing threads. Since it never hardens and becomes a very tough gum, it is vibration resistant and continues to work if disturbed by retorquing. The worst product you could use is RTV/silicone; RTV is a good product for the right applications, but often tends to be used where it isn't a good choice.

Permatex #3 is the same stuff as #3, but in a more liquid form, more solvent. I have been leaning more towards #2 lately to get more sealing product and less solvent. As an aside, Permatex #1 is a similar base but dries rock hard and does not retain any flexibility; not a good choice for this application.