1572 rear end

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BigMike
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by BigMike »

wtgvr4me03 wrote:
BigMike wrote:Dave, what I see in the pic is he did not have much luck because he did not put much effort into the repair.
BigMike,
I was kind of surprised how quickly he gave up. It was very windy and cold and we were attempting it in the driveway. I did offer to move the car out of the other side of the garage to block the wind... Impressive how you knew that minimal time was spent on the attempt!!
Hmmm.....I wonder why he did not produce a good result? :roll:
Did he (try to)weld this with a spoolgun or did he TIG it?

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Tom Scott
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by Tom Scott »

Minimal clean-up at the weld area, minimal joint prep (groove), and wind blowing away the shielding gas...No way it is going to get welded like that.

One day to and from a proper weld shop could make the difference here. Dave, consider loading it up and taking it to a good shop.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

I am certainly going to think about taking it to a shop. I got to work in it for awhile today. I have everything cleaned up and ready to install. I got the brace kit painted today also.
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wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

BigMike wrote:
wtgvr4me03 wrote:
BigMike wrote:Dave, what I see in the pic is he did not have much luck because he did not put much effort into the repair.
BigMike,
I was kind of surprised how quickly he gave up. It was very windy and cold and we were attempting it in the driveway. I did offer to move the car out of the other side of the garage to block the wind... Impressive how you knew that minimal time was spent on the attempt!!
Hmmm.....I wonder why he did not produce a good result? :roll:
Did he (try to)weld this with a spoolgun or did he TIG it?
He tried to TIG it. He did complain about the wind blowing the gas off. I then suggested moving the car out of the other side of the garage. He did mention about taking it to his shop and trying it indoors but wanted to research if 4043 was the best fit for it. I have not heard back from him.

JMotuzick
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by JMotuzick »

Your that far I would find a difrent shop and have them weld it in the shop not outside! Then reassemble and forget about it for the next 30 years

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Tom Scott
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by Tom Scott »

"Your that far I would find a different shop and have them weld it in the shop not outside! Then reassemble, check the bolt torque regularly and enjoy it for the next 30 years."

There Joe, I fixed it for you!
:beer:
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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stevet
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by stevet »

Since you are that far, you could also check around to find one that's not broken and replace as well. I found my adapter house for $50, tore down to where you are, reassembled and back in the tractor. Just keep in mind, it has to be the house for a Super as the gearing is different between the standard garden tractor and the Supers..

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SWilliams
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by SWilliams »

I've welded on those housings with no problem. They have to be CLEAN, that includes flushing out the crack with solvent to remove any oil/crud that is in there. 4043 will work as filler. That weld looks like a cold weld (low amperage) with no gas. go in there and clean it out, flush the area with brake cleaner and then use a propane torch to heat that area up, then flush it again. Now go after it with the TIG.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.


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9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

SWilliams wrote:I've welded on those housings with no problem. They have to be CLEAN, that includes flushing out the crack with solvent to remove any oil/crud that is in there. 4043 will work as filler. That weld looks like a cold weld (low amperage) with no gas. go in there and clean it out, flush the area with brake cleaner and then use a propane torch to heat that area up, then flush it again. Now go after it with the TIG.
Bad plan using brake clean. Read this http://www2.worksafebc.com/i/posters/2013/ws_13_09.html

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

Dave

If you still have the axle tubes off you may want to take a couple minutes and drill a couple holes at the bottom of the trans case to allow the water that condenses in the tubes to drain back into the center.
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Tom Scott
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by Tom Scott »

Sam is 100% right about never using Brake-Clean on anything that will be heated! I have read some sad stories of people damaging themselves permanently after welding on a surface cleaned with brake cleaner.
The holes at the bottom of the housing for drain-back are always a good idea. :beer:

Steve - The adapter housing from any GT or SGT can be used if you re-use the SGT guts like I did in my Cinderella thread.

It is well known that I am an advocate of replacing the housing, just need to makes sure ring and pinion shimming is still correct. Most of the time you probably won't need to change the shimming like I had to. Mine was just built bad from the get-go, clearances were all wrong.

Walk that thing into a real weld shop and you will probably have it back the same day, good to go.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

My impatience got the best of me today. I decided to just but it all together with the brace kit and see how it does. I only cut grass with it... The brace kit is very nice! However it would have been nice if I didn't need to drill two holes in each bracket. So my paint job got scratched up. I am going to wait a day to two to put fluid in it. Last time I got in a rush and put fluid in an hour after and had leaks. I had to drop it about two years ago for the broken bolts at the frame.
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9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

You installed the plates that bolt to the frame backwards. This is how they go.
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wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

I didn't want to drill any new holes in the tractor. Either way it seems very solid and I expect it will work fine.

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

Dave

You shouldn't need to drill any holes in the tractor. It's designed to line up with existing holes. You are working on a Super are you not?

wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

Yes a 1572. My tractor does not have the holes required to install the bracket the way in your picture. I flipped the bracket every which way prior to install. Also I noticed one of my holes was slotted where yours was not. I do not have a hole close to the fender as the one in your picture does with the bracket installed. My tractor has no holes in front of the front mount holes that I used. EDIT... after taking another look i could have ground out part of the fender and i could of used that hole. However I can easily drill I hole now and not touch the fender area to make it more secure. I guess beer and repairs don't mix lol. Thanks.

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

wtgvr4me03 wrote:Yes a 1572. My tractor does not have the holes required to install the bracket the way in your picture. I flipped the bracket every which way prior to install. Also I noticed one of my holes was slotted where yours was not. I do not have a hole close to the fender as the one in your picture does with the bracket installed. My tractor has no holes in front of the front mount holes that I used.
Dave

You shouldn't need to drill any holes in the tractor. It's designed to line up with existing holes. The slotted hole makes it easier to install on a Cyclops because of the fenders. This pic shows the Haban bracket (painted white) on a 1572. All I can think of is that for some reason your frame didn't get drilled like every other Super frame I've seen.
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wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

idk... my frame certainly did not have the required holes.. strange... I was complaining as I drilled through the bracket with two torn shoulders and no drill press lol...

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

I hear you with the torn shoulders, I had a torn rotator cuff. If you decide to flip the bracket around I would drill the 1/2" and one of the 3/8" hole through the frame. I wouldn't worry about the 3/8" hole closest to the fenders. The 3/4" hole is for the stabilizer used on the older Haban decks or the snow plow mount.

wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

It is strange that mine doesn't have the holes. I may just drill the 1/2 inch through the frame on both sides and leave it as is. I am scheduled for surgery in may, so trying to get this done prior too. Although I think it will be fine as is. the braces really beef up the setup. Cub should of done something similar from the get go. Than we would not have all those with the broken front mounts! If this doesn't work out I am not pulling it back out until I have a cast iron swap available!

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

Dave
Take your time after getting the surgery. Do the therapy. Took me about 9 months. If you can get in a pool the resistance from just working the shoulder as hard as you can stand it helps a ton.

wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

Thanks for the tip. I am hoping to get the first one right within a year, then getting the 2nd surgery done. Proof that lifting weights while out to sea is not a good idea! Hit rough waters while I was working out and the rest is history....

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

Dave I sent you a PM with my contact info.

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

Do you have a pic of the side of your frame without the brace bolted to it? Just looked at more pics of the 72 series and the bolt that is behind the fender on the Cyclops is in front of the fender on a 72 series. Pic is from a 1572, the bolt is circled in red. This is where the slotted part of the bracket goes. Do you have this hole in your frame?
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wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

9803412 wrote:Do you have a pic of the side of your frame without the brace bolted to it? Just looked at more pics of the 72 series and the bolt that is behind the fender on the Cyclops is in front of the fender on a 72 series. Pic is from a 1572, the bolt is circled in red. This is where the slotted part of the bracket goes. Do you have this hole in your frame?
Yes I have the hole in front of the fender as in the picture. I will take one side back off in the next few days and get a picture. Thanks

wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

9803412 wrote:Do you have a pic of the side of your frame without the brace bolted to it? Just looked at more pics of the 72 series and the bolt that is behind the fender on the Cyclops is in front of the fender on a 72 series. Pic is from a 1572, the bolt is circled in red. This is where the slotted part of the bracket goes. Do you have this hole in your frame?
Sam,

I am officially a moron! I really didn't notice that hole in front of the fender! Once you pointed that out and I pulled the bracket back off it was plain as day. Thank you for your patience with me! Also the tractor feels amazing! It is now so much smoother while idling it is crazy. I need to get more fluid to top things off since starting it, then pull the deck back off and change the oil and filter and I should be all set. Also Tom thanks for the input on the sealants from your thread! So far no leaks. The last time I used silicone based and it was already leaking at this point. Thank you to all for the input. I know that it should of been welded also, but I think it will be just fine with the braces. I hope to do a cast iron swap in the future anyways.
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9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

Dave

Glad to help. Let me know how it feels once you get time to run it. :beer:

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dag1450
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by dag1450 »

Sam, thanks for helping Dave out on his rear bracket/braces.....but the way I see this, it all could have been avoided if u would have designed some instructions to go along w said braces! I mean come on....even Chinese hardware gives u a piece of paper. :lol:
Although maybe u should have your legal team weigh in on this before u start telling the public where and how to put on there braces.
I got it....u could write them in Chinese! :beer:
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

wtgvr4me03
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by wtgvr4me03 »

9803412 wrote:Dave

Glad to help. Let me know how it feels once you get time to run it. :beer:
Cut the grass with it after work today and it feels great. It honestly feels better than prior to the mount breaking. So I am happy. Rear is leak free also.. Now the ---- fuel tank has a leak at the valve on the bottom. It had me freaking out when I came home from work and saw something wet under the rear end!!

9803412
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Re: 1572 rear end

Post by 9803412 »

dag1450 wrote:Sam, thanks for helping Dave out on his rear bracket/braces.....but the way I see this, it all could have been avoided if u would have designed some instructions to go along w said braces! I mean come on....even Chinese hardware gives u a piece of paper. :lol:
Although maybe u should have your legal team weigh in on this before u start telling the public where and how to put on there braces.
I got it....u could write them in Chinese! :beer:
Well for what it's worth when I sold the design to Xtreme I did include the installation instructions. If he is not including them with the product then the problem is with Xtreme. :beer:

If any of you guys have any questions about the SGT or GT brace kit feel free to contact me. I no longer have any financial interest in them but I do like to see people get the correct info about what they will do and how to install them. :beer:

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