New member with 1512

[JohnWR]

Hi guys new member here i have a 782 and when i bought the deck for it the seller recommended this forums i going to need some help with this adventure i got today.

Well i just opened a a can of worms here just got back from Maryland with this 1512. I have a feeling at first i am going to have some regret with this but after i get this fixed i am really going to enjoy this thing.

Got the 1512 (i do have the side panels and trans cover just pulled them off when i got home came). It came with a cat 0 3 point hitch, newer 50" deck nice it's quiet and a nice leaf collector. It does start right up and runs nice. The hour meter worked when i looked at it but didn't survive the 5 hour trip home.

Needs some work.
cooling fan bearings
cooling fan belt and tensioner pulley
general service
front end work needs spindles and tie rods
then the worst issue of all the input shaft seal is leaking and the shaft has some wobble to it so most likely going to need a rear end. Anyone with a cast iron rear end that would work want to want to sell it to me.

Any input is welcome.

[dag1450]

Welcome John! Wow ...way to jump right in! Diesels r sweet but like u found out....more moving parts and the drive lines r a little light. They r not too hard to rebuild. Some guys get crazy w all kinds of cv joints and stuff.....im not sure its worth it but thats your call. Now that trans input shaft.....thats not an easy repair. Nice find and keep us posted on your progress. Dave

[ReicheP]

John welcome to the party! Nice way to start, enjoy!

[JohnWR]

Welcome John! Wow ...way to jump right in! Diesels r sweet but like u found out....more moving parts and the drive lines r a little light. They r not too hard to rebuild. Some guys get crazy w all kinds of cv joints and stuff.....im not sure its worth it but thats your call. Now that trans input shaft.....thats not an easy repair. Nice find and keep us posted on your progress. Dave

I don't think i'm going to do a CV shaft this time around i have a line on a cast rear that i'm going to steal the hydro pump out of. I agree diesel is a little much for one spiral pin. I've already contacted someone for a new yoke that also uses set screws. I'd love to use the whole cast rear end but from what i can tell it wont work on this due to the tank location.

My goal is PA plow day but if i miss that with this i'll be there with my other cub.

[dag1450]

Yes....this cast iron rear topic came up a week or two ago...and it was my memory that the fuel tanks shut off/ pick up won't clear the cast iron. Dave c chimed in and said he has one or two of these swaps under his belt....but nver responded to my questions about the fuel shut off clearance. It would b nice to hear his take on this or some pics?? A new trans is your best bet for the input shaft. I have never had this issue but Tom S just went through this on a super.

[JohnWR]

Thanks i am going to get a bunch of parts ordered tomorrow. The first thing i need to address is the drive train but while the drive shaft is out i'd be stupid to not do the alt belt. I plan on just swapping the pump for now and storing the rear i can always install it later down the road.

I was looking at the steering the gear box has some play i think i might be able to adjust that out. The spindles and wheels bearing and axle pivot are all showing a crap load of wear what the best way to tackle this.

[JMotuzick]

Welcome!
I e done the cast iron swap with no issues. The only thing to remember to do is drill and tap for the dip stick with the rear cover off! With the 3 point you need the dip stick as you won't be able to get to the rear fill plug. I didn't have any issues with fuel shut off locations. If you swap pumps be sure to get a ported pump I like the newer ones from the CCC era as they seam to have used a Better quality steel for the trunun..... Lewis isn't far from you and has parts, Steve Mitchel isn't either if you want Steves number shot me a PM/email...
Joe

[JohnWR]

Welcome!
I e done the cast iron swap with no issues. The only thing to remember to do is drill and tap for the dip stick with the rear cover off! With the 3 point you need the dip stick as you won't be able to get to the rear fill plug. I didn't have any issues with fuel shut off locations. If you swap pumps be sure to get a ported pump I like the newer ones from the CCC era as they seam to have used a Better quality steel for the trunun..... Lewis isn't far from you and has parts, Steve Mitchel isn't either if you want Steves number shot me a PM/email...
Joe

Thank's your actually who i got my deck from a few weeks ago you mentioned the forum so here i am. I hit lew up already he doesn't have anything at the moment. The guy i found with the rear end in in New milford CT say 100 bucks for the rear end with ported pump.

[JMotuzick]

Didn't relize that was you! How did the little car do!?
I've got a text out to Steve in PA to get you a price and availability.
Steve in new Milford has a great museum of stuff! Well worth the quick tour!

[JohnWR]

Didn't relize that was you! How did the little car do!?
I've got a text out to Steve in PA to get you a price and availability.
Steve in new Milford has a great museum of stuff! Well worth the quick tour!

Scion did alright was fun getting the 44C out of it by myself. For this trip i took a rental tundra i don't think the scion was up to this load. I met steeve a few years ago got the push blade for my 147 i had from him.

I am going to order most of stuff tonight as i really would like to take it to PA plow day. If i have to keep the aluminum rear end i'm not worried as it's just going to be used for plow days and running a blower in the winter. I'll leave the pushing for the 782 as it has the cast rear in it. I finally got the stuff for the sleeve hitch so the 782 is going to PA plow day regardless.

[Oak]

Keep the aluminum rear. There is nothing wrong with them. I tranny slam the heck out of my 882 with 2 sets of IH weights and tires filled with water and never had a problem. The rears stay together better with the cat 0 on them because the frame doesn't flex as bad. Get you a set of GT braces and check your bolts with a torque wrench and you'll be good to go.

[JohnWR]

Took the fenders off to clean the tank and replace all the fuel lines and filter today as it stopped running on me yesterday. 14' of fuel line later today and 2 filter got this little kubota back up and running.

I am going to keep the aluminum rear end it has no broken or stripped bolts and for ease i think i'll just change the pump.

In the last day i ordered a gear reduction starter, got everything for a tune up, fan bearings, the cork gasket for the pump, light switch, flex discs, new coupler from jeff, side panel springs, both engine belts and a trans filter.

[Dave C]

are you still looking for a replacement ported pump... i should have a few

[JohnWR]

are you still looking for a replacement ported pump... i should have a few

Thanks i ended up getting one from an 1811. I got it from steve's IH parts, Also got a newer front end for it as well all for 100 bucks can't complain

Did a oil and filter change yesterday and changed the air filter. Today after i got back from steves with my parts i pulled the cooling fans jack shaft out tomorrow i'm going to change the bushings my new idler pulley should also be here. Just waiting in my IHCCW parts order to come in and i can get this thing really going.