1872 Hydro Cork Seal Peplacement

This is where we can discuss all the stuff made after IH's sale to MTD.
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mferris72
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:25 am
First and Last Name: Mike Ferris
Location: Mineral Wells, WV

1872 Hydro Cork Seal Peplacement

Post by mferris72 »

Pressure has bulged the gasket at the port holes
Pressure has bulged the gasket at the port holes
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I'm in the process of replacing the Hydro Pump cork seal due to a leak. When I removed the pump I noticed that the clear cellophane protector that is supposed to be peeled of before install was still present. Probably why it leaked. My father-in-law has owned this tractor from new and says it has never been worked on. Might just be a factory mistake. My real question is about the new seal. As you can see from my pictures the 3 holes in the old gasket are not over the 3 holes on the pump. Should they? Tractor ran well and Hydro lift for the deck and steering worked also. The front ports have never been used so not sure about them. Should I line the gasket to the 3 holes? Oh yea and peel off the clear protector so it sticks to the pump is a given.]
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Tom Scott
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Re: 1872 Hydro Cork Seal Peplacement

Post by Tom Scott »

Mike - I believe the clear plastic you show there is actually the carrier for the adhesive. I vaguely remember the last one I bought might of had a white peel off, and the clear is what the adhesive was on. I could be wrong, it's been a little while. You will figure that out, report back to jog my memory!

The three holes were originally there for the first generation hydros as drain back holes. For all later tractors all the drain back is directed through the bearing that surrounds the output shaft in your picture. (Note that your hydro does not have any drain holes that correspond to the holes in the adapter housing.) Covering the holes with the gasket makes a weak design a little better.

The flaw in the design is that there isn't much gasket surface between the holes in the adapter housing and the outside edge. When I have done this job I have chosen to smear a thin layer of Permatex #2 on the non sticky face of the gasket. I would have been a much more robust design if those holes had been filled in the adapter housing, which I actually did on one of my threads here, but you have to remove the adapter housing from the rear housing to do this.

Long story short, replacing the gasket in the way that you found it is slightly better in my opinion.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors:  1541, 2135
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mferris72
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:25 am
First and Last Name: Mike Ferris
Location: Mineral Wells, WV

Re: 1872 Hydro Cork Seal Peplacement

Post by mferris72 »

Answers my question Scott. Thanks for the explanation. Got my gasket today and had hoped it was the new composite type, but it the cork type. The peel off protector for the adhesive is brown paper so I suspect your right about mine being the glue itself. I'm a big Peratex #2 fan so I will do that. This one lasted lasted almost 30 yrs. so should be good. I almost made my own gasket and now that I know it doesn't need the holes I might just do that and eliminate the weak areas by the holes. Thanks again!

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chzuck
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First and Last Name: Charlie Zuck
Location: Elizabethtown, PA

Re: 1872 Hydro Cork Seal Peplacement

Post by chzuck »

I wonder if your dealer had old stock. The last one I replaced for a guy was cork and rubber combination. As a precaution I applied a thin bead of RTV around the outside edge of the gasket on the non-sticky side.
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