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I got the new parts to upgrade crank vent but where does the breather filter set in the reed plate? My did not have one in it. I assume it sets under the hose on top of reed plate under the valve cover. The parts schematic doesn't show how it sets. This is a m18 engine. I wasn't paying attention when I took it apart. Does the reed point to the rear or front of tractor? Should have took a pic duh?

Pretty sure I got it right

That looks right to me. But is the reed opposite of the filter or is it sitting directly under the filter. I wasn't sure if you would want the filter sitting over the moving part of the reed
Thanks again dag!

Yes Opposite. But u can also check out the orientation of the baffle that goes down into the valve box. I think it's meant to kinda protect the hole into the crank case. Give us a couple pics

Ok reed to the front, bafflle towards block, filter to the rear under hose, get it got it good. I hope this will tell me if I have blow by or just a bad vent. Still had rubber version with no filter. That is the deck discused earlier thread. Says cub cadet on it but assume it was manufactured by haban?

Yes, haban made those decks but had the CCC data tag. Much like the 59m chippers made by mikissic with the IH tag in the 70's

Oh man !!.....I forgot to mention.....while u r in there....try to measure your valve clearance to the tappet. That will probably b your next step in trying to keep that thing "on the road". Getting valves done. Oh well. Sorry I forgot.

The thought crossed my mind but i don't know the procedure for adjusting the valves on this so I'm sticking my head in the sand for now. If it still blows oil I will probably ring it this winter and set them up then. Thanks for the thought though

I would check the valve lash now. If the seats recede the lash will close up and you run the risk of burning a valve.

The procedure should b in the manual. U need to get that cylinder at top dead center on a certain stroke.....then use a feeler gauge to check gap. That's the easy part. Adjusting is the hard part. Do your research for maybe this winter. I just learned this before I rebuilt mine....if it's hard to start once it's warmed up....then your valve clearance is surely in need of some attention.

Copy that dag. I've watched guys kick the guts out of motorcycles with tight valves but they are generally very easy to set up. I all ready put it together so I'll know what I'm in for next time I mow and look under the air filter. I think I know what I'll find.

I mowed this evening for an 1 1/2 hours with the 1872, checked under the air filter and low and behold no oil! I think I can give it a clean bill of health for now. Thanks for the recommendation on the vent upgrade. now I can consentrate on getting 109 up and running

Great news. I'm not saying u don't but just want to get this out there for all to hear. Check the oil before every start. This is obviously to keep the oil topped off...but also to look for gas in the oil. There is a huge history of gas leaking into the engine. So if one day u come out and the oil is a little over the full mark.....u have a problem I keep a rag right on the steering wheel as a reminder.
Good luck

Good point. The key on the dipstick works as well. I only use ethanol free fuel in everything I own in hopes that "they" will keep producing it and providing it in our area. Haven't had that problem yet