High, My name is Greg and am new to this site, I purchase a non running 1864 that needs a starter and probably a key switch. I have found several starters and switches online and prices are all over the board, my question is, should I buy the more expensive components or will the less expensive ones work?
Greg
New to site, purchase a non-running 1864
- Tom Scott
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Re: New to site, purchase a non-running 1864
Greg - Welcome! Perhaps post some links to what you are considering purchasing... New vs. used, factory parts vs. aftermarket, etc. will make a difference as well.
partstree.com and Messicks.com are where I like to start for looking up the proper Cub part numbers. I purchase most of my factory Cub parts from Messick's, but the starter is a Kohler part number, no reason to pay the mark-up of it coming through Cub (MTD).
partstree.com and Messicks.com are where I like to start for looking up the proper Cub part numbers. I purchase most of my factory Cub parts from Messick's, but the starter is a Kohler part number, no reason to pay the mark-up of it coming through Cub (MTD).
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
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2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
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Re: New to site, purchase a non-running 1864
Welcome aboard Greg. First thing to do is remove the key switch, then check it for rust on the terminals and check the socket for burnt terminals. 99% of the electrical issues with the Cyclops are from that switch. No startts, no charging, bad lights. All because they routed the power all through the switch.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
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Re: New to site, purchase a non-running 1864
Thanks, I will check connections on the switch. If they are dirty any suggestions on what to clean them with?
Greg
Greg
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Re: New to site, purchase a non-running 1864
Greg
Dirty normally means rusty in this case! A small flat/points file works great if it’s only a small amount a wire brush works. Even a bit of sand paper or emery cloth works good too. Basically just get things back to bare metal without taking any away. Once clean use dielectric grease to coat the surface. This is a must for any shop, I use it after every use of my snow plow on the truck to keep things from getting rusty again it has cut my “stop wiggle the wires” down 99% since I started using it every use.
Dirty normally means rusty in this case! A small flat/points file works great if it’s only a small amount a wire brush works. Even a bit of sand paper or emery cloth works good too. Basically just get things back to bare metal without taking any away. Once clean use dielectric grease to coat the surface. This is a must for any shop, I use it after every use of my snow plow on the truck to keep things from getting rusty again it has cut my “stop wiggle the wires” down 99% since I started using it every use.
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Re: New to site, purchase a non-running 1864
I have used an emery fingernail pad or steel wool. I replaced the PTO, brake and key switches and cleaned all wire terminals on my 1864 CC in an effort to cure the intermittent no crank symptom. A temporary option to get it to run to use is to jump the starter solenoid.