Back on Feb 22nd, I began posting about a ’92 1440 cyclops I bought that had sat since ’21 that the PO advised it smoked a bunch having blown a head gasket. After checking for price/ availability of repowering, I opted to open the engine up but first I must be able to “see” the engine. This engine was filthy with baked-on crud. After several power washing I dismounted the engine and cleaned, scrubbed, chiseled etc. Having removed the heads, I found the valves had severe carbon build-up as well as chucks in the chamber. After decarb, valve grinds and head resurfacing, I took to the the cylinders and pistons. A little bit of decarboning and all looked surprising good. I was tempted to just throw the heads back on and run with it. But, I decided to deglaze the cylinders since I had to spend the $ for gaskets and rings so why not…. After all that I did, the hot water bathings to remove the stone debris, I finally decided to look at the engine’ feet. The picture is what I found. I did file just to right of my pointer to see if just superficial (wishful thinking).
All that scrubbing to remove the baked-on crud, I missed seeing the crack that was covered with dirt. Internally the crack has not penetrated but surely that is just a matter of time. My thought is that due to the Cub Cadet engine mounts that suspended the engine rather than the base feet in full contact with the frame, this allows the base to flex.
Any “ low cost” but effective suggestions to get this cyclops running again?
1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
- Tom Scott
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Re: 1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
Ken - So sorry, that is tough luck. I was in the same boat a few years ago, discovered my latest "new to me" tractor had a broken transmission case. A shave and haircut turned into a major project before I could use it.
I'm not intimately familiar with this particular engine, but I'm assuming that crack is at the bottom of the oil reservoir area and it does sound like the mounting method was a major factor in the stress that caused it to crack. If it is indeed just an oil reservoir area and not near a cylinder wall or such it could be potentially drilled at either end to stop crack propagation, V'd out then TIG welded. No guarantee of how long it would last, but a good welder should be able to make short work of that for not too much money. Since it hasn't cracked through we'll hope the metal deeper in isn't oil soaked which would make welding more of an issue.
The punt position is you find another donor engine with a good block so as not to waste the rest of your good work. Myself, I'd go for the TIG weld, likely not very expensive at a good local weld shop.
Keep us posted, update this thread as you go. We want to see success!
I'm not intimately familiar with this particular engine, but I'm assuming that crack is at the bottom of the oil reservoir area and it does sound like the mounting method was a major factor in the stress that caused it to crack. If it is indeed just an oil reservoir area and not near a cylinder wall or such it could be potentially drilled at either end to stop crack propagation, V'd out then TIG welded. No guarantee of how long it would last, but a good welder should be able to make short work of that for not too much money. Since it hasn't cracked through we'll hope the metal deeper in isn't oil soaked which would make welding more of an issue.
The punt position is you find another donor engine with a good block so as not to waste the rest of your good work. Myself, I'd go for the TIG weld, likely not very expensive at a good local weld shop.
Keep us posted, update this thread as you go. We want to see success!
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
- BigMike
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Re: 1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
Can we see a pic of the inside?
Cast aluminum is a crap shoot to weld but I have done it sucessfully. Welding over those ribs would be a PITA but if the inside is smooth with some prep it can likely be welded.
Cast aluminum is a crap shoot to weld but I have done it sucessfully. Welding over those ribs would be a PITA but if the inside is smooth with some prep it can likely be welded.
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Re: 1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
As requested---Here's a pic of inside. Scratching with pick I think I can feel an imperfection...
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Re: 1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
QUESTION for the forum: Would the additional height of the 1/8"ish plate steel cause any issue with shaft alignment ? If so, I would then need to cut the 4 spacers shorter.
- BigMike
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Re: 1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
If it helps and you want to, send me the case and I will see if it's weldable. I welded a green transmission case that was cast and that welded pretty well.
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Re: 1440 w/ cracked B&S model 29 V-twin
Thanks Big Mike for the offer...been busy with new job and have put projects on the back burner. I will surely be back in touch when the dust settles !