2284
- SWilliams
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Steve Williams
- Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)
2284
Tractor runs good, has a few wiring issues (Just SHOCKED that a Cyclops has wiring problems.) Couple bulbs not working (not an issue as it's getting LEDs) Hydro lever is LOOSE so I need to adjust the friction disc and then adjust the actual control on the hydro. Need to change out the fluid and filter. Currently the hydro is touchy so I need to figure out if it's just the adjustment, fluid or other issue. Also has a seal leak out the top of the power steering so I may get the seal kit for that.
Cosmetically the rear pan is ugly, I'm not sure what happened but it has areas that look like suction cups coated with brake fluid were stuck on it. The tunnel cover is trashed and it needs a seat. Have a nice fender pan and better seat.
Mechanically the rest of it is good. Needs a serious bath though...
54" Deck - Quiet and in good shape. Missing the pulley covers so I may make some flat ones, I took the ones off my other deck because the grass builds under them and likes to get hot. No extra welds and looks like the wheels and rollers were just replaced. Haven't looked at the blades yet. Missing the discharge chute.
551 Blower - needs a bit of work, looks like it was moved around a lot without a lot of care so the pulleys are dinged up and tweaked. Need to get a better tension spring. Will replace the chute cables as they are not long enough to work with my cab set up. Also need to repair a couple of the teeth on the chute. Looks like something hot was laid on it. Couple small bends in the augers, also from poor handling in the past.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sat Aug 08, 2015 4:49 am
- First and Last Name: Steve Sheils
- Location: Finger Lakes Region, NY
Re: 2284
Congrats on the Super!
2072 w/ 60" Haban & 450 blower~ sold it foolishly. #1 cart. 2284 w/ 325 Haban. 2182 w/374 Haban, 1440- sold. 451 blower. 70 and 126. 2182 4 parts. 2284 4 parts. 1812 with 450 blower + 3 pt.
- Tom Scott
- Chief Moderator
- Posts: 1772
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:11 pm
- First and Last Name: Tom Scott
- Location: Bentley Springs, Maryland
Re: 2284
A worn trunion and the friction disc adjustment (or replacement) is always the first easy look for on a touchy hydro, but I also believe sticking/internally leaking forward-reverse check valves can cause touchy hydro syndrome.
When you transition from forward to reverse (or vice versa), one check valve is opening and the other is closing. If either one is not functioning properly and smoothly, it will cause problems. For example, if a valve is delayed on opening, when it does, it will pop suddenly and give you a launch.
My 2182-2 was very touchy even with a good trunion and new cam plates. I replaced the friction disc and adjusted properly as per the manual (which is stiffer than I thought it would be), and it improved immensely. (Yes, there is a time to read the manual, it provides a spring scale measurement for the lever resistance level.) A hydro lever with a loose friction adjustment is impossible to control no matter how slowly you think you're moving it!
I am attributing the remaining "touchiness" to the relief valves. I will have to come back and verify if I ever pony up the dollars to replace them with new. Too bad they are such crazy money!
Steve, nice to see you get another good one. Post up what you go with on the LED headlamps and how they do. Many LED are good for being seen (tailights...) but not good at projecting light to see by. Also, it is hard to beat the light quality from a traditional sealed beam for seeing what's ahead.
When you transition from forward to reverse (or vice versa), one check valve is opening and the other is closing. If either one is not functioning properly and smoothly, it will cause problems. For example, if a valve is delayed on opening, when it does, it will pop suddenly and give you a launch.
My 2182-2 was very touchy even with a good trunion and new cam plates. I replaced the friction disc and adjusted properly as per the manual (which is stiffer than I thought it would be), and it improved immensely. (Yes, there is a time to read the manual, it provides a spring scale measurement for the lever resistance level.) A hydro lever with a loose friction adjustment is impossible to control no matter how slowly you think you're moving it!
I am attributing the remaining "touchiness" to the relief valves. I will have to come back and verify if I ever pony up the dollars to replace them with new. Too bad they are such crazy money!
Steve, nice to see you get another good one. Post up what you go with on the LED headlamps and how they do. Many LED are good for being seen (tailights...) but not good at projecting light to see by. Also, it is hard to beat the light quality from a traditional sealed beam for seeing what's ahead.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
- SWilliams
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Steve Williams
- Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)
Re: 2284
This acts like a sticking valve. Going forward it's fine and you can go from creeping to full, in reverse you can pull the handle down but it doesn't do much until it's down a ways, then it takes off, but you can then slow it down to a crawl like it should start out at. The steering reacts just like it's a pressure spike as well.
I drained the "fluid" it had in it and I'm not sure what it really is, almost looks like ATF but not as dark red. Plan on using the same stuff I use in the rest and see if it improves any. Did have some water so it will get flushed and drained again. Then a new filter and adjust it up. Spins QUIET so I don't think it's anything real serious. Very possible a broken/weak spring in a check valve.
Tom, I know what you mean on the disc, when I did my 1641 I was thinking, gee that's stiff, but it holds speed great.
Need to go through the wiring and sort out that rats nest. The seat switches are bypassed but not very clean. Someone tried to redo the switch but used all cheap crimps and didn't clean the old switch very well. May replace it but not sure, will depend on how loose it is. Nothing I haven't done before.
I drained the "fluid" it had in it and I'm not sure what it really is, almost looks like ATF but not as dark red. Plan on using the same stuff I use in the rest and see if it improves any. Did have some water so it will get flushed and drained again. Then a new filter and adjust it up. Spins QUIET so I don't think it's anything real serious. Very possible a broken/weak spring in a check valve.
Tom, I know what you mean on the disc, when I did my 1641 I was thinking, gee that's stiff, but it holds speed great.
Need to go through the wiring and sort out that rats nest. The seat switches are bypassed but not very clean. Someone tried to redo the switch but used all cheap crimps and didn't clean the old switch very well. May replace it but not sure, will depend on how loose it is. Nothing I haven't done before.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
- SWilliams
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Steve Williams
- Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)
Re: 2284
Well that was fun......... Pulled the battery tray, go into the wiring, what a mess. I had a major problem, the darn gremlins kept stealing things, I'd set down the knife, it'd disappear, Fixed the socket for the rear light but the bulb vanished, I bought like 4 of the 5 pocket wire connectors for the Indak switches, think I can find them? NOPE... I've always had a spirit bell in the car and on the bikes, Anyone know if they work in a shop???
Anyway, started the rehab parts list.
Going to reverse the two check valves and see if the hydro actions reverse as well, that would point me to a bad valve at least.
Went after the friction disk, loose would be an understatement. Same thing with the actual linkage parts on the hydro. Almost as stiff as a jellyfish! Doesn't look like wear from use but more from neglect.
Anyway, started the rehab parts list.
Going to reverse the two check valves and see if the hydro actions reverse as well, that would point me to a bad valve at least.
Went after the friction disk, loose would be an understatement. Same thing with the actual linkage parts on the hydro. Almost as stiff as a jellyfish! Doesn't look like wear from use but more from neglect.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
-
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2010 2:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Bob Gausman
- Location: Madison VA
Re: 2284
Steve,
How is your project going?
I have a 782D which did not have reverse last fall. Just got around to working on it again. Could not find out on the Internet which valve was for forward and which one was for reverse. So happens last summer the R/S check valve was leaking oil from the weep hole on top. Bought two used check valves from Patton Acres (Both valves had silver paint on them). Replaced the leaking R/S valve and problem fixed.
Last night took the spare check valve and place my air blow gun nozzle into tip of the valve and gave it a blast of air. The steel ball inside the valve oscillated open/close. Swapped out the older L/S check valve on the tractor with the spare valve just tested. Repeat the air blow gun test on the old check valve and steel ball would not move.
Start the tractor up and now had reverse again. Took the Cub out for spin on the road WOT and also going up/down hills. I am now able to use the hydro to creep down steep hills without using the brakes. Before the Cub would just freewheel down steep hills before I lost reverse all together.
I plan to rebuild my two defective check valves. Already chuck one valve in the lathe and remove the crimp on the valve tip. Going to order the new o-rings from McMaster-Carr.
Bob Gausman
How is your project going?
I have a 782D which did not have reverse last fall. Just got around to working on it again. Could not find out on the Internet which valve was for forward and which one was for reverse. So happens last summer the R/S check valve was leaking oil from the weep hole on top. Bought two used check valves from Patton Acres (Both valves had silver paint on them). Replaced the leaking R/S valve and problem fixed.
Last night took the spare check valve and place my air blow gun nozzle into tip of the valve and gave it a blast of air. The steel ball inside the valve oscillated open/close. Swapped out the older L/S check valve on the tractor with the spare valve just tested. Repeat the air blow gun test on the old check valve and steel ball would not move.
Start the tractor up and now had reverse again. Took the Cub out for spin on the road WOT and also going up/down hills. I am now able to use the hydro to creep down steep hills without using the brakes. Before the Cub would just freewheel down steep hills before I lost reverse all together.
I plan to rebuild my two defective check valves. Already chuck one valve in the lathe and remove the crimp on the valve tip. Going to order the new o-rings from McMaster-Carr.
Bob Gausman
Anything diesel: Cubs, Onan generators, etc
782D #1 w/ 55C mower, 782D #2, IH #2B Tiller, QA-42 SnowThrower + John Deere 435, Farmall BN, Koering 1350 Skid, Bobcat x320
782D #1 w/ 55C mower, 782D #2, IH #2B Tiller, QA-42 SnowThrower + John Deere 435, Farmall BN, Koering 1350 Skid, Bobcat x320
- SWilliams
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Steve Williams
- Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)
Re: 2284
Still working on it. I'm trying to add all the items on before I start using it. That way it will be "done" and I don't need to tear into it for a while. Currently I'm working on mounting a second lift cylinder in the tunnel to work the rear 3 point.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
- SWilliams
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Steve Williams
- Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)
Re: 2284
Progress update. The 2284 sort of got put on the back burner for a while. Had a death in the family, then my FIL (82 years old) fell off a ladder at a paint job he had and broke his hip. They replaced that, now he's having cataract surgery in both eyes. That is going real well, he went from a barely legal corrected 20/40 vision to almost 20/20 and shouldn't need glasses !!
The 2284 is almost complete, need to finish the rewire yet. I'm adding in a few relays to get the problematic switch out of the way. When done the charging voltage will no longer go through the switch and there will be relays to turn on the lights, a new relay for the starter. The harness will now be in wire loom. as well plus all items are getting dedicated grounds. Changing the inline diodes over to a better design for the charging system and added an actual fuse panel.
Hydraulics wise I need to re-seal the steering box. Then finish the third valve install in the dash, have the valves just need to extend one line and run the new ones to the front. Once completed I'll have the ability to have front outlets, middle lift and rear 3 point all on their own valves.
The only other big item is extending the steering shaft to make up for the added seat height on the supers. Don't really like the wheel down near the knees.
The 2284 is almost complete, need to finish the rewire yet. I'm adding in a few relays to get the problematic switch out of the way. When done the charging voltage will no longer go through the switch and there will be relays to turn on the lights, a new relay for the starter. The harness will now be in wire loom. as well plus all items are getting dedicated grounds. Changing the inline diodes over to a better design for the charging system and added an actual fuse panel.
Hydraulics wise I need to re-seal the steering box. Then finish the third valve install in the dash, have the valves just need to extend one line and run the new ones to the front. Once completed I'll have the ability to have front outlets, middle lift and rear 3 point all on their own valves.
The only other big item is extending the steering shaft to make up for the added seat height on the supers. Don't really like the wheel down near the knees.
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
- Tom Scott
- Chief Moderator
- Posts: 1772
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 9:11 pm
- First and Last Name: Tom Scott
- Location: Bentley Springs, Maryland
Re: 2284
Steve, sorry for your loss in the family. It is nice to hear your how your FIL has rebounded! Good for him still being active!
Sounds like you're doing a great job on that 2284. Your addressing all of the known electrical design flaws and improving a lot of things. Keep us posted, maybe throw some pics our way! We like pics!
Sounds like you're doing a great job on that 2284. Your addressing all of the known electrical design flaws and improving a lot of things. Keep us posted, maybe throw some pics our way! We like pics!
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
- SWilliams
- Posts: 806
- Joined: Mon Sep 06, 2010 7:14 pm
- First and Last Name: Steve Williams
- Location: Fort Plain NY (Upstate NY near Cooperstown)
Re: 2284
I would be glad to take pictures, BUT at the moment I'm not even wandering outside in the cold.....
The next item is going to be putting together a good blower for it. It seems like every version they used have their issues. My current thought is to strip the 551 shell, blast it and add some steel to stiffen the weaker spots, like the shell around the impeller. I'm making a steel replacement for the chute adapter and the chute, the plastic just doesn't hold up real well (blew a rock through it on the second use!!!). Am playing with different drive ratios as well, I'd like the impeller speed to be closer to the 451 to throw farther, and I plan on tightening the clearances and adding rubber edges to it as well. I like the shell height better as it is high enough to cover 90% of the snowfalls we get, where the 451 tends to dump snow over the top a lot. Then I'm adding electric rotation and chute tip controls, the mechanical ones just make it a bit complicated when you have 2 hands but need steering, hydro, and chute directions. I figure the electronics are easier than having a couple extra arms grafted on...
I've had people ask "Why not just buy a newer tractor that already has the things you want" Well the main reason is, nobody really makes one!
The next item is going to be putting together a good blower for it. It seems like every version they used have their issues. My current thought is to strip the 551 shell, blast it and add some steel to stiffen the weaker spots, like the shell around the impeller. I'm making a steel replacement for the chute adapter and the chute, the plastic just doesn't hold up real well (blew a rock through it on the second use!!!). Am playing with different drive ratios as well, I'd like the impeller speed to be closer to the 451 to throw farther, and I plan on tightening the clearances and adding rubber edges to it as well. I like the shell height better as it is high enough to cover 90% of the snowfalls we get, where the 451 tends to dump snow over the top a lot. Then I'm adding electric rotation and chute tip controls, the mechanical ones just make it a bit complicated when you have 2 hands but need steering, hydro, and chute directions. I figure the electronics are easier than having a couple extra arms grafted on...
I've had people ask "Why not just buy a newer tractor that already has the things you want" Well the main reason is, nobody really makes one!
Owner of an 1863, 2263 (1863 W 22hp engine!) 2084 and a 2 - 2284s.
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."
"In God we trust, All others pay CASH..."