Whoops! I've got to take it back off anyway to paint that seat pan white. Tks.ReicheP wrote:Seat mount is on backwards?
New Guy, 108 Rebuild
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- First and Last Name: Mike Martin
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
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- First and Last Name: Mike Martin
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Getting closer. I appreciate the help from this forum. My wife cannot understand why I like lawnmowers! These little CC's are special.
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
About to get the hood on.
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- Don Bellamy
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Mike, it's safe to say don't try and clear the snow on your pool cover with that beautifully refurbished Cub Cadet.
Keep up the good work you're almost there. Great looking Cub!
Keep up the good work you're almost there. Great looking Cub!
My IH's are like family
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Decals mostly on. Got the clutch and PTO rebuild kits. CC probably needs both as those have never been rebuilt.
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
We were trying to get the Power Take Off mechanism off and it would not come. We took the 4 Allen screws out but it would not come off. We broke the pulley housing trying to get it off. Can one buy the housing? Any idea why that will not turn loose? We used penetrating oil on it tks for any ideas.
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Well, we got it off. There was a retainer in there that had another Allen screw on it and we didn't know that. When it was loosened it came apart. We are going to try to braze the cracked pulley housing. Tks
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
There should be 6 set screws. One flat tip and one pointed tip in each hole. The other part you found is the lock collar for the bearing. It locks the bearing the crank. The other set screw lock the PTO to the bearing. PTO info is available in the repair manual for the tractor here:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20Q ... Manual.pdf
I can't tell from the picture but there is supposed to be 2 springs on there. It looks like there's only one. Don't know if I'd trust that pulley spinning around at 3600 RPM.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20Q ... Manual.pdf
I can't tell from the picture but there is supposed to be 2 springs on there. It looks like there's only one. Don't know if I'd trust that pulley spinning around at 3600 RPM.
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Doug: The old original PTO had just one spring. The rebuild kit they sent has, as you say, 2. The breakdown in the parts manual shows just one spring. So, advise: 1 or 2?mortten wrote:There should be 6 set screws. One flat tip and one pointed tip in each hole. The other part you found is the lock collar for the bearing. It locks the bearing the crank. The other set screw lock the PTO to the bearing. PTO info is available in the repair manual for the tractor here:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20Q ... Manual.pdf
I can't tell from the picture but there is supposed to be 2 springs on there. It looks like there's only one. Don't know if I'd trust that pulley spinning around at 3600 RPM.
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Both springs. One on top of the other. Looks like you had a puller on it. Might want to consider replacing the center button if it didn't come with the kit. That hole will probably eat up the fiber button on the actuator lever.
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Yes, they sent a new center button. We will put on both springs.mortten wrote:Both springs. One on top of the other. Looks like you had a puller on it. Might want to consider replacing the center button if it didn't come with the kit. That hole will probably eat up the fiber button on the actuator lever.
Tks much.
Mike
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Mike, send me your address and I'll mail you a decent used pulley.
Cub Cadet Originals -- Ayuh! (and a couple of 124's, 125's, and a 1650 -- Yep!)
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Ben: Thanks so much.Ben Morong wrote:Mike, send me your address and I'll mail you a decent used pulley.
Address removed by bad-guy moderator, sent via PM! Don't need the whole world sending Mike unseemly stuff...
Advise me the shipping cost and let me reimburse you, at least, for that.
Mike
- Tom Scott
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Mike - As you move forward, slow down, read the manuals on here and ask questions. Bad surprises like breaking the pulley can be avoided if you know about things such as the secret extra set screws! Also, you will need this type of knowledge to reassemble properly.
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Ben: I sent you a private Message.Ben Morong wrote:Mike, send me your address and I'll mail you a decent used pulley.
Tks,
Mike Martin
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
It's in the mail.
Cub Cadet Originals -- Ayuh! (and a couple of 124's, 125's, and a 1650 -- Yep!)
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Well, I do go too quick at times. I appreciate the comments and direction from this site. I have two JD 345's also. Now those are almost 20 years old too. I had bought one in '98 and then caused my neighbor to also buy one. He got too old to keep up 3 acres and sold his house and moved this year. He gave me his 345 that had 600 hours on it. It needed new hood and side panels but otherwise was real nice. These are heavy use units like the CC 108. My 345 has 900+ hours and runs like a top (water cooled Kawasaki twin-just about bullet proof). If one will just take care of these type units they will last a long time. At 68 the finish line is in sight! My son in law bought the neighbor's place and bought my other's neighbor's EXmark zero turn (now that is a cutting machine!) and so I now claim it too!. So we are covered up with big mowers. Thanks for the help from this site.Tom Scott wrote:Mike - As you move forward, slow down, read the manuals on here and ask questions. Bad surprises like breaking the pulley can be avoided if you know about things such as the secret extra set screws! Also, you will need this type of knowledge to reassemble properly.
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- First and Last Name: Al Thomas
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Great pics, the 108 is looking awesome !!! I've got a 108 with a Danco loader on it . Not anywhere near nice as yours !! Love that butternut yellow vet on the lift !
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
I had wanted one of those 'mid year' ('63-'67) Corvettes since '63. It took about 50 years but I finally got one. This is a real original, stock car. I am the third owner. Came out of Ca and has 83k miles. 327/300hp/Powerglide car. NCRS judged car scored 96% original (Top Flight). A real comfortable driver made when GM was making some pretty well built cars.althomas wrote:Great pics, the 108 is looking awesome !!! I've got a 108 with a Danco loader on it . Not anywhere near nice as yours !! Love that butternut yellow vet on the lift !
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
My opinion is that they were the best looking style of vette ,buddy had a blue 64 coupe we use to run to work at the steel mill back in the mid 70's !course you could buy one then for 2500-3000 bucks !
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Got the 108 cranked for the first time in about 5 years. Not far from behind through. Not sure what to do them but just look at it!
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- cholloway
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
That's lookin' real nice.
How about I send my 147 to ya for a make-over?
How about I send my 147 to ya for a make-over?
Official Member SCCG
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Send that baby on over here.cholloway wrote:That's lookin' real nice.
How about I send my 147 to ya for a make-over?
What is the Southern Cub Cadet Club?
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Done. Now what am I gong to do? I appreciate the help from this forum on getting this 108 redone. I broke the PTO pulley trying to get it off and a fine member of this forum sent me one saying to 'pay what I wanted' for the purchase. (I paid and hope it was enough) Now that is someone really helping.
I stated I sold the 108 one time to a friend (for $500). It was not powerful enough to do the job he needed to do so he asked if I would take it back. I had had 'seller's remorse' real bad after it left so I was glad to take it back. The throw out bearing was seized up and that might have been one reason it wouldn't do the job like it should. Thank goodness for that. These units are real fine and real tough. This one mowed 3 acres of grass for 20 years before retirement. They do not get enough respect (and mowers in general also do not get much respect.) But I like them.
I stated I sold the 108 one time to a friend (for $500). It was not powerful enough to do the job he needed to do so he asked if I would take it back. I had had 'seller's remorse' real bad after it left so I was glad to take it back. The throw out bearing was seized up and that might have been one reason it wouldn't do the job like it should. Thank goodness for that. These units are real fine and real tough. This one mowed 3 acres of grass for 20 years before retirement. They do not get enough respect (and mowers in general also do not get much respect.) But I like them.
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- dag1450
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Well done! It's like a homemade Christmas gift to yourself.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
- BigMike
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Very nice Mike!
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
We put a new clutch disc in this 108. It is not working very well. the tractor doesn't want to 'take off' at times. Seems to have too much slack between the clutch disc and the steel pieces on either side. The shaft going to the trans turns all the time. Is that correct? Can one of you fine folks tell us how to adjust this clutch? The PTO which we rebuilt works fine. Thanks. Mike
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Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Mike, your doing a great job!
Go to our documents and manuals section located toward the upper left hand corner of the home page just under the header logo.
Left click to open.
Left clock on 86- 1650 Service manual Part 1.
Left click download to open.
Scroll down to page 2-24.
It will tell you there that the clutch release lever must have .050 clearance.
Adjust lower nut as necessary at clutch fork bottom.
I think that your adjustment is out of spec.
Go to our documents and manuals section located toward the upper left hand corner of the home page just under the header logo.
Left click to open.
Left clock on 86- 1650 Service manual Part 1.
Left click download to open.
Scroll down to page 2-24.
It will tell you there that the clutch release lever must have .050 clearance.
Adjust lower nut as necessary at clutch fork bottom.
I think that your adjustment is out of spec.
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- First and Last Name: Mike Martin
- Location: Madison, Ms
Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
ken: Thanks much. Can you (or anyone) advise if the drive shaft going back to the transmission should be turning all of the time (with the clutch engaged or not engaged). Tks, MikeKlapatta wrote:Mike, your doing a great job!
Go to our documents and manuals section located toward the upper left hand corner of the home page just under the header logo.
Left click to open.
Left clock on 86- 1650 Service manual Part 1.
Left click download to open.
Scroll down to page 2-24.
It will tell you there that the clutch release lever must have .050 clearance.
Adjust lower nut as necessary at clutch fork bottom.
I think that your adjustment is out of spec.
- Merk
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- First and Last Name: Dale Merkle
- Location: Middle Point, Ohio 45863
Re: New Guy, 108 Rebuild
Good looking 108.
Several areas on your clutch to look at:
I notice paint on the part of the driveshaft that goes in the bushing in the 3 pin driver. That will cause drag.
Did you trued the pressure plates?
Is the driveshaft new or an used one?
Check the area where the throw out bearing for wear If it is a used driveshaft. Paint in the throw out bearing area could cause the problem you are having.
The rear slotted pressure should move freely on the drive shaft and spiral pin. I check for pressure plate movement before I install the big spring on the drive shaft.
I notice paint on the spiral pins on the 3 pin driver. That may or may not cause problems like you are having. The disc needs to be able to float a little.
Several areas on your clutch to look at:
I notice paint on the part of the driveshaft that goes in the bushing in the 3 pin driver. That will cause drag.
Did you trued the pressure plates?
Is the driveshaft new or an used one?
Check the area where the throw out bearing for wear If it is a used driveshaft. Paint in the throw out bearing area could cause the problem you are having.
The rear slotted pressure should move freely on the drive shaft and spiral pin. I check for pressure plate movement before I install the big spring on the drive shaft.
I notice paint on the spiral pins on the 3 pin driver. That may or may not cause problems like you are having. The disc needs to be able to float a little.
Last edited by Merk on Thu Dec 28, 2017 5:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.