Johnson Loader piston rebuild
- Dave C
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Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Well after a few years of using my newly built 882 diesel with johnson workhorse loader. i have been disappointed by the cylinders leaking down within seconds with minimal load. and not really being able to dig much. So After some hard digging for new cylinders, all came up short. I decided to try and rebuild the pistons myself. So far i have gotten one almost down. Not so tough of a job.
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Trying to save cubs... one at a time.......
- dag1450
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Nice. Good job. I did my Kubota a few years ago. On that cylinder I had to boil a pot of water and heat some aspects of the seal to expand it and get it on. That was pretty tough for a beginner but it all worked out.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
- BigMike
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Dave, could we get some play by play on how to get them apart?
- Dave C
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- First and Last Name: David Chester
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Ok i got a video of the takedown so far.
Trying to save cubs... one at a time.......
- dag1450
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Good Dave.... big Mike does better with instructions in a video. The less reading the better
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
While dave is working on a Johnson I pulled the pump off my old 125/danco today I’m looking for part numbers for seals for the pump and for the pistons. I had them and lost them! Once I find the numbers again, I’ll get a new thread with pictures... I don’t do video!
- BigMike
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Interesting Dave!
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video.
- BigMike
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Dag, you might want to ventilate better when you're painting......the fumes are getting to you.dag1450 wrote:Good Dave.... big Mike does better with instructions in a video. The less reading the better
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Re: Johnson Loader piston rebuild
Dave- if yours has an ordinary snapring, then it's different from mine. Loader-Mutt's Johnson Workhorse 20 has a wiper ring/dust seal that needs to be removed first, then the spiral snap ring... then the end gland assembly.
The wiper ring/dust seal looks like an ordinary wheel bearing seal, but it's designed for lateral, rather than rotary applications. I made a simple driver... just a piece of tubing that slides over the rod, with a flat plate to distribute pressure around the seal to drive it in square. To get them out, I had to pick through the seal and pry them out with a flat screwdriver.
The ring makes two full wraps, the ends have a relief cut into them for extraction. Takes a dental pick to get it out, start at the end, lift it up, and drag it towards the opening, then work in a circle around the inside of the tube.
Once the dust seal and ring are out, push the end gland IN (I used a piece of plastic tubing to push it in a little bit) then a light scrubbing with sandpaper, hit it with some WD-40 (to rinse any abrasive out), then pull the rod, piston, and end gland out.
My seals included plastic flat washers sandwiching the O-ring, on both the piston AND the gland ID. I'm pretty certain the gland outer O ring was stand-alone. The spiral ring and lip-seal/wiper were all replaced too. I sourced my parts from a local family business (Rodgers Industrial), and Kathy probably has her father's records on the parts I used on my last two re-seals. If they're the same as mine, I'm certain she can get more lined up.
www.rodgersindustrial.com Kathy will probably answer, tell her you need the same stuff I ordered from her dad about 8 years ago, she'll call me to figure it out.
The wiper ring/dust seal looks like an ordinary wheel bearing seal, but it's designed for lateral, rather than rotary applications. I made a simple driver... just a piece of tubing that slides over the rod, with a flat plate to distribute pressure around the seal to drive it in square. To get them out, I had to pick through the seal and pry them out with a flat screwdriver.
The ring makes two full wraps, the ends have a relief cut into them for extraction. Takes a dental pick to get it out, start at the end, lift it up, and drag it towards the opening, then work in a circle around the inside of the tube.
Once the dust seal and ring are out, push the end gland IN (I used a piece of plastic tubing to push it in a little bit) then a light scrubbing with sandpaper, hit it with some WD-40 (to rinse any abrasive out), then pull the rod, piston, and end gland out.
My seals included plastic flat washers sandwiching the O-ring, on both the piston AND the gland ID. I'm pretty certain the gland outer O ring was stand-alone. The spiral ring and lip-seal/wiper were all replaced too. I sourced my parts from a local family business (Rodgers Industrial), and Kathy probably has her father's records on the parts I used on my last two re-seals. If they're the same as mine, I'm certain she can get more lined up.
www.rodgersindustrial.com Kathy will probably answer, tell her you need the same stuff I ordered from her dad about 8 years ago, she'll call me to figure it out.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.