My quietline

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dag1450
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My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

So I painted this poor thing over a year ago. Whatever....I'm finally back working on it. My next task is to get the dash tower wired up, dashboard tin looking a little nicer and bolt the assembly to the frame. If I can get that far this winter I will feel like a champion :lol:
First task is fixing some old owner blunders on the harness. I bought a used harness to rob some parts and splice them in. I also want to clean the wires, they r pretty dirty and can't see the color on most of them. I will try different cleaners. After a year and a half I pretty much forgot where everything goes. I was doing some labeling tonight. We will see, it will probably be like Greg Brady's car...the light switch will turn on the mower deck. That episode was the best :lol: Key switch plug is toasty , so I will try changing the plastic housing only. It's a mess.
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cholloway
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Re: My quietline

Post by cholloway »

WOW... Even if I had, I would NEVER admit to watching The Brady Bunch! :shock:
Did you have a "thing" for Marcia? ( I had to Google the spelling on her name since I was not a fan.) :roll:
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Dave C
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Re: My quietline

Post by Dave C »

Dag,

IF you end up with trouble with getting that harness to work i should have all new plastics in stock along with ends if you need to solder on a few new ones. alternatly i have new harnesses under my desk.

dave
Trying to save cubs... one at a time.......

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Colin. ....of course I thought she was cute! If a boy didn't this...well I won't go there. :lol:

Dave .. thanks. A Harness in stock... that's impressive. Is Mike m. the same as "front porch electric"? I quickly looked for those plastic plug ends and found nothing. Do you know we're they a brand of auto manufacturer? Or IH specific? I found the key switch plug wip but it was about $15 for what I need was just the plastic. I bought a harness from eBay ($40) that was complete and had light switch, meter, key switch 2 fuse holders and light harness. I would just use that one but it doesn't have the loom. Mine has the loom in perfect shape so I will use mine. I'm thinking I will buy a new PTO switch mostly for looks and if I remember....it's brutal to get to later if mine goes bad.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Cleaning up nicely. I'm taking the plastic covers off, brass brushing the terminal end. Tooth brush and cleaner cutting the mold/funk off. I want to coat the ends before I place back into the plug. I'm thinking silicone spray or silicone grease. Im just not sure if these will hinder the connection. Any thoughts on this? I want to try being smart...but not shoot myself in the foot. Homemade nail plug remover works great.
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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

dag, dag, dag.... I've lectured for years, and you don't listen!!! Dielectric silicone grease should be used on every connection. In the Permatex aisle of every auto parts store (or should be).

Amazon link: https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-22058 ... 196&sr=8-3

Dielectric grease, meaning it does not conduct electricity, is counter intuitive. The reason you want a grease that doesn't conduct is that way you don't accidentally conduct electricity to somewhere it shouldn't be, no matter how much grease you use.

The grease does not impede the flow of electricity from metal to metal. Microscopically the grease all gets pushed aside when the two mating terminals meet. I've even used my digital ohmmeter on the most sensitive setting and can't detect any resistance from any connections slathered with it.

Bottom line: All electrical connections should get a wipe of this grease before putting together. I also put some on the wire before crimping, but you want a really good crimper so the greased end doesn't pull out. Finally, since it's silicone, you don't have to worry about any plastic connector damage.

And Marcia did have it going on! :lol:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

"Packard 56" connectors I think is what these all are, they came in different terminal configurations.

I think this is the 5 terminal that is used on the ignition switch. Just for show and tell, likely cheaper on eBay: https://smile.amazon.com/Delphi-Metri-P ... 47&sr=8-22

Looking good!
:beer:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

I listen...I listen. I use it ...but it was nice to hear all the data behind it.lol. wow I looked for a little while for connector ends and didn't see, but once you use the right word....all kinds of connectors we use pop up. Thanks. I took every connector apart and shined them up with a brass brush on the Dremel. Then got the tooth brush working with the silicone grease. If something doesn't work it will be nice to blame Tom finally for something. If everything works it will be my dremel shine. :lol:
While taking apart the key switch one set of wires was not crimped and pulled out from the connector and another was not looking to good. So they got some solder action. Main harness and light harness all done. Tonight I will work on the battery and starter cables. Question on how the lights get wired? Let me know if this sounds right. "C" side of Meter to fuse, then fuse to switch, switch to lights.
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JMotuzick
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Re: My quietline

Post by JMotuzick »

Dag
Does the key switch have a wire hooked up to the black wire? Tipicly this short 6” wire is blue. This is for the headlights or for the electric lift. It should be long enough to plug into the fuse holder, then a short wire to the switch and out to the lights.

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Joe... not one blue wire in here, everything but. This series don't use the key switch. I found a diagram and my guess was correct. Pulls power off the meter, then to fuse, fuse to switch. What I am wondering is when the harness was installed in the assembly line. I think it's pretty clear that the battery cable must have been in before paint. I have 3 battery cables and all have yellow paint. It looks horrible so I took off what I think will show. I used sandpaper for this. Cleaned battery end with baking soda...then coated with grease and shrink wrap.
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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Cleaning and painting some of the under dash parts. I forgot the speed control had a welded nut come off during removal. Welded that. More messing around. Painting meter and clock trim. Oh and the dash needed to get a fresh coat as well... that was not too fun.
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BigMike
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Re: My quietline

Post by BigMike »

I don’t think the speed control is the only thing that has a loose nut, :mrgreen:

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

What Mike...no welding comebacks? ..like "nice ground clamp to nothing" or " your ground won't work that far away". That pic made it in partly for you. I can't win :roll:
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BigMike
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Re: My quietline

Post by BigMike »

dag1450 wrote:I can't win :roll:
Do we need to have a pity party? :lol:

Does that high heat paint give a better buzz?

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Has anyone opened up a light switch? I thought for sure with how clean this one was it was in perfect working order. Not so...I need to hold it all the way over for it to make contact. Figures the one in my eBay harness also don't work. These things are pricey. The housing seems like cast. I will find a way to see what's going on. Then I can jb weld it back together. No ground clamps needed for that welding.
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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

So I had another switch that didn't work and had an electric hook up prong broke off, so I figured I had nothing to lose. I cut the back lip off. It was a "rolled in" cast white metal or something like that. I was able to start it open by beating in a screwdriver.... and bending it out ever so slight...then grab it with pliers and bend it open..then off. Once open it was obvious the copper contacts were very tarnished. At that point I cleaned them up and got it working electrically. Now I had to decide if I could save it. I started by soldering on the tab. Then sanded the rough broken edge. I greased it up and held it back together to test. Now I just need to jb the back on and should be good for another few years.
Once I saw how they work and tarnish ....I moved over to my other better looking switch. I moved that one back and forth 25 times and now it works. That one did work occasionally before.... so I lucked out on that. :)
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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

dag - Good job on the autopsy and resurrection. It looks like the contacts are high quality with a high copper content, so I would just keep operating the switch you haven't opened up, it will likely "self clean". If it won't self-clean, then you know you can still go in and do the same as you did with this one.

Good work!
:beer:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Thanks. Yes it seems high quality but I guess when things sit outside... well it's not good. I used a quick set jb for the first time and it's great. Starts to set in about 5 minutes.
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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

I think I'm almost ready to assemble the dash and tower. This little yellow strip was hanging over my head for the past year. I didn't get fancy, I thinned down the paint and used a foam brush. It's basically hidden because the side engine covers but does show if you look for it. The dash tin cleaned up pretty nice. I have a couple nos tins....but wanted to try my hand at painting. Let's just say the painting was the easy part :lol:
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davis2
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Re: My quietline

Post by davis2 »

Dave, looks good!

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Tom Scott
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Re: My quietline

Post by Tom Scott »

dag - Looks really nice. But... Unfortunately your Amp gauge looks to be bad. It should be centered at "0", unless you have current flowing through it in that pic! :lol:
2135, (at parent's)
1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
<><

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Nuts! Why do you have to be so observant :roll: I tested it and it still works.. just not centered. I need to fix this so I can tell Tom that everything is just fine :lol:
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tc429
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Re: My quietline

Post by tc429 »

dag1450 wrote:I think I'm almost ready to assemble the dash and tower. This little yellow strip was hanging over my head for the past year. I didn't get fancy, I thinned down the paint and used a foam brush. It's basically hidden because the side engine covers but does show if you look for it. The dash tin cleaned up pretty nice. I have a couple nos tins....but wanted to try my hand at painting. Let's just say the painting was the easy part :lol:
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nice work- love seeing old things renewed, and this thing looks absolutely new :)

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

So I ordered some goodies. Decals from maple Hunter and at a glance in the package they look pretty nice. Also placed an order for some small things from a "d1gger" cub store. Everything looked good with the exception of the steering column gromit. I know the write up said aftermarket $12...but this looks like it is put together with pieces and then rubbed with black silicone. I'm not sure if I will use it or not. Old ones have little bit of dry cracking but that might be lesser of two evils. Win some lose some.
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Klapatta
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Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

We should all be aware that as time marches on more of these smaller items are becoming NLA. There are folks out there doing what they can by stepping in with their efforts to sustain a decreasing demand for such items. CCC will continue on it's path of phasing these smaller items out. They have kept these machines in the supply chain for over 35 years but that time has come and is going. Best I think to contact the seller and inquire if something other than a reproduction can be had that would better suit what you expect. This was not misrepresented in any way and the seller will stand by any incorrect, incomplete, or defective shipments from my experience. I think Ray Weaver could be a big help with that item as well.
Good job with the project. My .02 with old with harnesses is that they are what they are. That said the plastic coated wires like yours stand up much better than the earlier rubber coated and loomed ones. Those were made from left over spools from the fifties handed down from the auto makers once the improved plastic coated stuff hit their market. Also 16 bucks for a connector and some terminals is an outrage, that is one fifth the cost of replacing the entire harness.
Good thread. Good job. Keep us posted.

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Yeah thanks for chiming in Ken. Yes I do appreciate Charlie's store. It might be only my second time buying from him but it's by far one of the nicer websites and seems well stocked. Another one I have bought from in the past ihccw, but they changed the format of the site couple years ago and I find it very hard to navigate. I decided I am going to use the gromit as I feel it will be fine at a glance. Lol. Every time I work on a cub I feel I should run out to Ray's. I have never had him ship to me as I like to look at the used part before I take it. He is cool that way. Got some assembly done. Oh...and the ammeter, you'll have to find out once I get a picture of the front. :shock:
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Klapatta
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Re: My quietline

Post by Klapatta »

Standard Packard 56 terminals can still be had from Napa.
packard terminal.jpg
The Brillman Company, http://www.brillman.com carries a wide size assortment.
These were in common use well into the 90's for washers, dryers, ranges etc.
They can be crimped with a bit of effort using using a standard Thomas and Betts type crimp tool but the professional will want the correct crimp tool for the job.
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DaveKamp
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Re: My quietline

Post by DaveKamp »

I guess it's kinda late, Dave, but one thing you COULD do to help make the switches last longer between work, is to fill that cavity with dielectric grease... fill it up so full that there's no room for air, and there'll be darned little ability for moisture to get in, hence, the contacts will not oxidize much...

Most of the time, I find ignition switches fail where they'll crank and start, but not run... that's because the ignition RUN contact has worn out... but the ignition START contact is still good. Very frustrating. Always handy to have a jumper wire with alligator clippies to bypass the battery to coil when that happens.
Yes, I'm a Mad Scientist... but I'm usually happy, even when things ain't goin right.

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dag1450
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Re: My quietline

Post by dag1450 »

Yeah good idea Dave. I was going to try that with a shrink tube once on the trailer wiring but I was running low on grease. Anyone ever try generously coat a joint then shrink tube? Sounds good to me! Will the silicone grease liquify as it gets heat applied? I have been using that idea of "filling with grease" on sandwiching of steel. With assembly of ...anything really...coat both sides with grease then mate together. This should preserve as you said. I did this on a couple mower decks and the Kubota. On the Kubota I have a small dirt and dust line at every ajoining body panel and frame fitments. I like the look cause I know it's in the name of preservation. :)
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 x 2 . A mower, blower and blade for each.

JMotuzick
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Re: My quietline

Post by JMotuzick »

Dag
I don’t think I’ve ever used it on shrink wrap, it does work well on stake on type termanal ends. I’ve used it here and don’t know of a issue. I used it on both the built in shrink wrap type and “dry duty” terminal ends.

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