Cub Cadet Electrical System
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- First and Last Name: Dwight Pilon
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Cub Cadet Electrical System
Hello,
I am new to this forum and hope someone out there can help me out. I am currently restoring a 1971 Cub Cadet 147.
All the wiring was totally worn out so I installed a new wiring harness. I hooked it up according to the manufacturers
instructions and also double checked my work using a 147 wiring diagram I found online but when I touch the battery cable to
the battery it sparks and the engine begins to turn over. This happens with the ignition off. I have tried everything I can think
of including replacing the ignition switch, solenoid, and regulator. For some reason the starter is getting power without going
through the ignition switch. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Dwight
I am new to this forum and hope someone out there can help me out. I am currently restoring a 1971 Cub Cadet 147.
All the wiring was totally worn out so I installed a new wiring harness. I hooked it up according to the manufacturers
instructions and also double checked my work using a 147 wiring diagram I found online but when I touch the battery cable to
the battery it sparks and the engine begins to turn over. This happens with the ignition off. I have tried everything I can think
of including replacing the ignition switch, solenoid, and regulator. For some reason the starter is getting power without going
through the ignition switch. Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Dwight
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Welcome!
I would start by checking the voltage regulator. Likely the grey and blue wires are not correct, it’s not the location on the side of the regulator, it’s the letter on the terminal. Not all replacements are the same. It’s possible your old one had bad contacts inside, the new one in the working locations.
I would start by checking the voltage regulator. Likely the grey and blue wires are not correct, it’s not the location on the side of the regulator, it’s the letter on the terminal. Not all replacements are the same. It’s possible your old one had bad contacts inside, the new one in the working locations.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Hello BigMike,
Thank you for your response. I did try switch the blue and gray wires on the regulator and it is still doing the same thing. So I switched them back.
Currently I have the following connections to the regulator.
Gray to the post marked Batt
Blue to the post marked L
Yellow to the post marked F
One thing I am questioning is my connections to the amp gauge. I have the following
Red to one side
Gray and light green to the other side.
If I disconnect one side then the starter does not turn over when I touch the cable to the battery, however is doesn't turn over by using the key either.
Thank you for your response. I did try switch the blue and gray wires on the regulator and it is still doing the same thing. So I switched them back.
Currently I have the following connections to the regulator.
Gray to the post marked Batt
Blue to the post marked L
Yellow to the post marked F
One thing I am questioning is my connections to the amp gauge. I have the following
Red to one side
Gray and light green to the other side.
If I disconnect one side then the starter does not turn over when I touch the cable to the battery, however is doesn't turn over by using the key either.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Blue is in the wrong spot, L should have nothing on it. I believe this is your issue. Yellow and grey are correct. The amp gauge is correct, unless it is reversed witch would show a negative charge once running. Keep us posted
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Thank you for the information. I disconnected the blue wire from the L post on the regulator and was able to connect the battery without it sparking and the starter turning over. Also I noticed that when I turn the key the amp gauge does move now, however when I turn the key to start nothing happens.
Also do you know where I should connect the blue wire to now? The other end is connected to the A post on the starter/generator along with a red wire.
Also do you know where I should connect the blue wire to now? The other end is connected to the A post on the starter/generator along with a red wire.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
There should be a 4th terminal on the regulator it might not be labeled. Sometimes under the regulator sometimes on the opposite side depending on the new manufacture.
As for starting check the orange wires from the key switch to the soloniod, one should have a black Tracer. Make sure with the pedal down you have continuity between the key and solenoid.
As for starting check the orange wires from the key switch to the soloniod, one should have a black Tracer. Make sure with the pedal down you have continuity between the key and solenoid.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
I did find a 4th pole to attach the blue wire to. I checked the wires coming our of the ignition switch and they are routed as follows
Black goes from the IGN pole to the + on the ignition coil.
Dark Blue goes from the IGN pole to the electric lift switch.
Green goes from the BAT pole to the amp gauge.
Orange goes from the ST pole to the safety switch. On the other pole of the safety switch a orange and black wire goes to the solenoid.
With the switch on there is no continuity when touching the poles on the safety switch. (I'm not sure if there is supposed to be)
With the switch on there is continuity when I touch the meter on the orange and black pole on the solenoid and a main pole on the solenoid.
Starter is non reactive when turning the key.
Black goes from the IGN pole to the + on the ignition coil.
Dark Blue goes from the IGN pole to the electric lift switch.
Green goes from the BAT pole to the amp gauge.
Orange goes from the ST pole to the safety switch. On the other pole of the safety switch a orange and black wire goes to the solenoid.
With the switch on there is no continuity when touching the poles on the safety switch. (I'm not sure if there is supposed to be)
With the switch on there is continuity when I touch the meter on the orange and black pole on the solenoid and a main pole on the solenoid.
Starter is non reactive when turning the key.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Just the orange on the key switch to the orange with black on the solenoid, pedal locked down do you have continuity? If not try putting a temp jumper across the clutch pedal switch. If it cranks over fix the switch! Don’t leave jumpers across safety circuits !
- dag1450
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Yes as joe has mentioned the safety switch on the foot pedal can give trouble. On my 127 I had the spring steel flapper that pushes the switch down break in half. Sounds like your getting close. Good luck.
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Houston we have ignition! I put a temp jumper on the clutch pedal switch and now the engine turns over like it should. Funny thing is that when I dug into the safety switch there is nothing that comes in contact with the plunger when the pedal is pushed in. Thank you so much for all of the awesome advice! Next comes the fuel/carb. I might be back.
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Well now I have another issue. I have no spark. I have the spark plug out with the wire on and touching the engine head but there is no spark when I turn the motor over. I have a new ignition switch, new points and condenser, new plug wire, new plug and new coil. Anyone have any ideas?
- BigMike
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
I would start with a 12volt test light. Start at the key switch and test for power, if you have power move to the next connection.
My hunch is that you will find a loose connection or a bad ground.
My hunch is that you will find a loose connection or a bad ground.
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- Posts: 10
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Re: Cub Cadet Electrical System
Thank you for the advice. Turns out it was the points needing adjustment.