Rear Oil leak in my 682

[rjarvis1961]

Hello! When last running I noticed oil leaking from the bottom of the machine in the rear. I shut her down promptly. The machine has been sitting since and no more oil has leaked out. I have included a couple of Pics. An ex-Cub dealer who now works on them and sells parts etc. advised I remove the center plate and check the relief valve for oil leak. I did so and all was bone dry, although I am not exactly sure where the relief valve is located (see pic please). At this time I do not know if I should start the machine again or what? Based on Pics and what I am describing can anyone advise further ? Thank you.

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[JMotuzick]

The two most common points of leaks are the valves as noted. They are on the top of the transmission 1” hex shaped and are just under the front lip of the fender. They only leak when the tractor is running.

OR:::: The dreaded cork gasket between the transmission and rear end. The whole rear needs to come out and the transmission unbolted from it. The gasket is between the two.

[rjarvis1961]

Thank you. Let’s hope it’s not the latter!

[dag1450]

Oh man ...that stinks! When you said it hasn't leaked since you parked it...i was thinking the check valves. But then I zoomed in on your first picture and I see the edges of the check valves. The look pretty dry to me. Others please chime in if I'm missing something. So based on that I'm thinking it's the cork gasket. Replacement of that is a big deal but it's not too bad if you have basic wrench skills. It still maybe could be coming from something else. I kinda forget what else is up around that area. You'll have to wipe it down really really good...then drive it for a few minutes and use your flashlight and paper towels to find where it's originating from. Have to put on your detective hat for this.

[rjarvis1961]

Well… thanks Dag for your input. It is very dry around the check valves , at least what I can view of them. Mike have to get THE Sherlock Holmes on this one! Shite!

[rjarvis1961]

Dug in a bit further and took a few more Pics. Looks pretty dry to me…

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[rjarvis1961]

Today I ran the tractor for a bit and then checked for the leak. Nothing. The tractor was jerking a lot while I ran it. Is it possible that it needs hy-trans fluid added ? My thought was to add some , run the machine again and then check again for the leak. Can anyone advise on this please? Thanks

I have viewed several You-Tube Vids that show the complete drainage and change of hydro -fluid by removing the rear plate altogether, draining the oil and replacing the gasket along with a bead of “rdt” (not sure rdt is correct). Is this a good thing to do? If so, I would also change the oil filter then.

Also, is there a dip stick in the rear of the machine to check the level of hydro oil, or do I just remove the center nut from the rear plate and insert a plastic straw or something other to check for oil?

Thank you

[SWilliams]

It almost looks like the one bolt on the housing is loose. Saw you email, sadly there are not many around who still work on our old machines, most have gotten out of the game. Even the few dealers around don't really like to touch them, they will however order you parts. The only one I've dealt with second hand is JBs Small Engine ( https://jbsmallengineworks.com/ ) My  BIL had been using that place. 
Might be worth a call.

[dag1450]

I don't know of a dipstick on the cast rear ends. I think you're right about the plug in the rear cover plate. That would be your check...and your fill.
I don't believe the "bucking" would be due to slightly low on fluid but I guess it's possible. I think I have mostly heard of the bucking when the hydro linkage get worn or out of adjustment. The plate on the side of the transmission is very sensitive to wear. I have to deal with this issue this winter on my 1872. It's kinda sluggish to handle movements.
How is the leak? Sometimes hydraulic seals can get dry from sitting long periods. Then they can leak.....but once back in use they will stop. I'm not sure if that happens on cubs....but I have seen on bigger equipment.

[rjarvis1961]

Thanks Steve and Dag for your replies. I’ll take a look at the bolts and tighten any up that may need to be tightened. Appreciate the lead on the Small Engine Repair people there in Utica. I looked them up and they seem reputable and experienced. Not sure if they’ll work on older machines, but I may end up giving them a shout. Thanks again for the contact info. As far as hydro linkage being worn or needing adjusting, not sure what’s involved with that? I do think that needs to be addressed though on my machine, since the speed control lever has no stop point(s)and is tough to control. Something is either worn or in need of adjustment there. Not sure where the plate on the side of the transmission is either, that you’re saying Dag is sensitive to wear? I have not yet checked the rear fluid to see if it’s low and/or add any hy-Tran oil. I did order a new hyd filter on line . Next plan of action is to change out the old filter with the new one and check the rear fluid and add some if need be. Then I’ll run the machine and check for any leak again. Being and knowing that the machine had only a ‘cosmetic’ restoration when I bought it, I anticipated some issues mechanically. I still believe anything can be fixed and it will be a better machine than a new store bought one once all is corrected. I’m keeping the faith, for now anyway! Thanks again for all the help. I’ll post up again with further details when I have some.

[ksanders]

Yes it will definitely be a better machine when fixed.

Those pictures definitely look like the pump gasket leak. They typically only leak in a few places, the relief valves, pump gasket, and reunion control seals on the sides which really stink. While it's best to remove the rear end, it isn't necessary to replace the gasket and a good time to tackle it if replacing fluid and filter. I just did this on my 782 a couple months ago and that also includes hydro lift lines you won't have to deal with on your 682. The tricky part is the driveshaft. I drive the pins out of the driveshaft at the engine and hydro pump and take the driveshaft couplers loose at both engine and hydro pump. This gives enough play to wiggle the driveshaft loose and out. The rest is easy. Loosen the sump line on the bottom of hydro pump, pop a couple snap rings and one linkage from the trunion assembly, and 4 bolts holding the pump on.

Now speaking of trunion, look up "Cub cadet hydro trunion repair". There is lots of info on fixing it and what to look for. Once you get the fender pan off, take a picture or two of it and post it here if uncertain.

One last thing. If the hydro speed control seems uncontrollable, there's a big nut that can be tightened with friction washers. It's on the dash tower behind the left side panel I think. Tighten until the hydro lever has resistance but not too hard to move.

[rjarvis1961]

Thanks Kevin for your reply and repair suggestions. I’m afraid most of it is beyond my capacity for a DIY fix. I do not have the means or the experience. I can do some things though. I also like to learn and I appreciate everyone’s input very much. It helps me to understand and explain the issues to folks more knowledgeable who may be able to tackle the repairs needed. My biggest challenge is finding that person these days who is willing to work on these older machines. They’re out there and I am patient enough to seek them out. Just anxious also to get this 682 up and running well. Fortunately I don’t have to rely on it now to get work done , as I have other machines in good operating condition. Thank you again!

[ksanders]

That's completely understandable. There's always option B. Go ahead and get the oil and filter changed as you mentioned (Hy Tran really doesn't go bad and can be reused if it's clean). Have an extra quart on hand than what you need and just use the tractor as much as you like. That leak isn't going to hemorrhage fluid out and destroy anything. It's just going to leave a drip on the floor where it's parked and dirty up the bottom of the rear end.
Might find a handy neighbor, forum member, or someone willing to help out close by in that time. I have a feeling any dealer is going to charge half what you paid for the tractor for what is essentially a $10 repair plus extensive labor.

[rjarvis1961]

Thanks Kevin. Plan B does sound like a plan, for now anyway. I hear you on a $10 fix costing a ton by a dealer with the labor charge. Tough to find a neighbor , or another etc. these days who has the time to help out with projects. They all have their own to do and I get that. Ideally I’d like to find someone and work along with them on it , so I can learn first hand about things. Obviously I did not grow up around this stuff . I am however surrounded by farm land so my chances of finding a person who may be able to help are better than if I were in a more urban or suburban environment. If I ask around I’m sure I’ll get some leads. Thanks again!

[davis2]

Yes it will definitely be a better machine when fixed.

Those pictures definitely look like the pump gasket leak. They typically only leak in a few places, the relief valves, pump gasket, and reunion control seals on the sides which really stink. While it's best to remove the rear end, it isn't necessary to replace the gasket and a good time to tackle it if replacing fluid and filter. I just did this on my 782 a couple months ago and that also includes hydro lift lines you won't have to deal with on your 682. The tricky part is the driveshaft. I drive the pins out of the driveshaft at the engine and hydro pump and take the driveshaft couplers loose at both engine and hydro pump. This gives enough play to wiggle the driveshaft loose and out. The rest is easy. Loosen the sump line on the bottom of hydro pump, pop a couple snap rings and one linkage from the trunion assembly, and 4 bolts holding the pump on.

Now speaking of trunion, look up "Cub cadet hydro trunion repair". There is lots of info on fixing it and what to look for. Once you get the fender pan off, take a picture or two of it and post it here if uncertain.

One last thing. If the hydro speed control seems uncontrollable, there's a big nut that can be tightened with friction washers. It's on the dash tower behind the left side panel I think. Tighten until the hydro lever has resistance but not too hard to move.

Sorry guys, I'm late to the party. My 782 has a hydro leak/drip I still haven't found. I changed the O-ring on the charge pump, but sadly no luck. I put a litter pan under it when I park in the shed... Gonna take the seat pan off and then run it so I can find the pesky SOB! Rich, take the plug out on the back of the rear end, and fill to the bottom of the hole. If you find the answer let me know too, please!
 

[davis2]

Thanks Kevin. Plan B does sound like a plan, for now anyway. I hear you on a $10 fix costing a ton by a dealer with the labor charge. Tough to find a neighbor , or another etc. these days who has the time to help out with projects. They all have their own to do and I get that. Ideally I’d like to find someone and work along with them on it , so I can learn first hand about things. Obviously I did not grow up around this stuff . I am however surrounded by farm land so my chances of finding a person who may be able to help are better than if I were in a more urban or suburban environment. If I ask around I’m sure I’ll get some leads. Thanks again!

Talk to Steve, he isn't far up the road from you in Fort Plain.

[rjarvis1961]

Thanks Dave! I’m going to change the filter and add some hy-Tran oil up to just below the hole as you suggested. I’ll run it then and take a look for leaks. Also wondering how the Speed Control Stop should work and I believe the speed lever ( forward , reverse, neutral) itself needs to be tightened? Going to have a go at that too with the large nuts that someone had mentioned tightening up a bit.
Thanks

[rjarvis1961]

I changed out the old HYD oil filter earlier today. The seals on the old filter and on the tractor were extremely dry. When checking to see if the HY-Tran oil was low , it was not. There was oil right up to the bottom of the plug hole, so no need to add any. I also tightened the Speed Control lever thanks to the tutorial from Kevin on the right nut to tighten. Thank you Kevin for that! I believe it made all the difference when running the machine as it no longer bucked once the lever remained in place when adjusting speeds both forward and reverse. I ran the machine in the yard for about 15 minutes in forward and reverse and at various speeds. I did not see any leak when inspecting things thereafter. Very happy about that too! We’ll see what happens over continued use. The machine had been sitting for a good amount of time, so hoping that any leak may have gone away by itself? Now onto the next thing… electronics and PTO operation. I’ll get into that on another post! For now she’s running without any leak, which is a big win. Good day today as my NY Mets also won and advanced to the Division Series !!! LETS GO METS!!

[davis2]

I changed out the old HYD oil filter earlier today. The seals on the old filter and on the tractor were extremely dry. When checking to see if the HY-Tran oil was low , it was not. There was oil right up to the bottom of the plug hole, so no need to add any. I also tightened the Speed Control lever thanks to the tutorial from Kevin on the right nut to tighten. Thank you Kevin for that! I believe it made all the difference when running the machine as it no longer bucked once the lever remained in place when adjusting speeds both forward and reverse. I ran the machine in the yard for about 15 minutes in forward and reverse and at various speeds. I did not see any leak when inspecting things thereafter. Very happy about that too! We’ll see what happens over continued use. The machine had been sitting for a good amount of time, so hoping that any leak may have gone away by itself? Now onto the next thing… electronics and PTO operation. I’ll get into that on another post! For now she’s running without any leak, which is a big win. Good day today as my NY Mets also won and advanced to the Division Series !!! LETS GO METS!!

Sorry,Rich. They wont get past my Padres if they meet in the LCS. Your guys are on a good run, though! Oh yeah, glad the 682 is doing well!
 

[ksanders]

Good to hear on the hydro stuff! Glad it's working well. The leak probably won't fix itself running like a seal would unless the filter was actually leaking since it's right there in the same spot. Here's to hoping!

Just let us know on the electronics. They're a little temperamental on the red ones too. Lots of power running through ignition switch and pto switches get old and the safety inside them gets corroded a bit and have to wiggle it to get power through ignition system past the safety in the pto switch. Dielectric grease on the 5 prong ignition switch plug is your friend as those are prone to corroding, shorting, overheating and melting, etc. Nothing to freak out about, just something to know exists on those. We'll hash it out when you're ready. Happy Cubbing

[davis2]

Hey guys, while we are on this model, on my 782,I have a spindle going south on the 44" mower deck. Is there any threads existing on the how to rebuild the spindles? Any maybe best places to get bearings, dust seals, etc... I have 3 spares to rebuild, 1 could actually be used short term. So any help/advice/ harassment would be appreciated.

[ksanders]

Feel free to start a new thread so more people see.
There's two types of spindles so it depends on what you have. The early IH ones are stamped halves with a "Watergate" bearing or something it's called. No rebuild, just replace the assembly. They used to be crazy expensive if even available but I think they're out there for $70 or so each for that bearing assembly last I saw a couple years back
The later MTD style is a more standard casting with bearings. I haven't had them apart but think they're more standard with bearings and seals available at any parts store. The two styles are interchangeable on any deck. There should be write-ups on both but not sure where at the moment. Maybe the FAQs at the top of the site? I'm going on some old memory here.

[davis2]

Feel free to start a new thread so more people see.
There's two types of spindles so it depends on what you have. The early IH ones are stamped halves with a "Watergate" bearing or something it's called. No rebuild, just replace the assembly. They used to be crazy expensive if even available but I think they're out there for $70 or so each for that bearing assembly last I saw a couple years back
The later MTD style is a more standard casting with bearings. I haven't had them apart but think they're more standard with bearings and seals available at any parts store. The two styles are interchangeable on any deck. There should be write-ups on both but not sure where at the moment. Maybe the FAQs at the top of the site? I'm going on some old memory here.

I've looked around and haven't found many threads. I have the 44A deck. I should have started a new thread, but thought I would catch a live thread...

[ksanders]

Google ST-745 water pump bearings (don't know where I got Watergate) for a Cub Cadet deck. If you have the stamped steel spindle housings still this should be what you need. Whether you can still find them or available I'm not so sure. Even if you can, you might find keeping an eye out on local classifieds or Facebook marketplace for a cheap old deck with the aluminum housing spindles to be far cheaper. If you don't want that hassle and can find the ST-745 assemblies they last for many years.

[davis2]

Google ST-745 water pump bearings (don't know where I got Watergate) for a Cub Cadet deck. If you have the stamped steel spindle housings still this should be what you need. Whether you can still find them or available I'm not so sure. Even if you can, you might find keeping an eye out on local classifieds or Facebook marketplace for a cheap old deck with the aluminum housing spindles to be far cheaper. If you don't want that hassle and can find the ST-745 assemblies they last for many years.

Ok thank you. I do have 2 good spindles, but tore down an old one that was abused to see if it were possible to rebuild. I found a hogged out keyway, so the shaft is NFG. But I was correct that they could be rebuilt. My spindles have the KKD 7505 Bearing. Thanks for responding.