Mike Andrews sent me this way.
My Cub Cadet 2166 won't stay running after I release the key. I've replaced the ignition coil and ignition switch. Fuel solenoid is fine.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
https://youtu.be/IYQhyoBiwrY
2166 Won't Stay Running
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- First and Last Name: Janice Burber
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- BigMike
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- First and Last Name: Mike Andrews
- Location: Niles,Michigan
Re: 2166 Won't Stay Running
Glad you found us John.
We have talked about safety switches and the like.
I know there are at least a couple of you that have this same model or close.
We have talked about safety switches and the like.
I know there are at least a couple of you that have this same model or close.
- Tom Scott
- Chief Moderator
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- First and Last Name: Tom Scott
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Re: 2166 Won't Stay Running
Hi John, Welcome!
That absolutely sounds like a safety switch. I had a 2000 series at my parents years ago, long gone, but I think I remember enough to possibly help.
There would be a safety switch for the brake, and for the seat. The tractor shouldn't fire at all if it were the brake safety switch, so I'm betting on the seat safety switch.
Cub used a goofy switch in that style that depended on the seat foam compressing and activating the switch. As the seats age, the foam gets stiff and can no longer activate the switch (unless you decide to put on a bunch of weight!).
You'd have to look at the schematic to be sure (should be in our library), or just try what I'm suggesting. I believe the switch is "Normally Open" (NO) and makes contact to allow current flow when closed with weight on the seat. To verify, first unplug the switch under the seat, and you'll likely get the same bad result you have now. Then make a short wire jumper with spade clips and jump across the two pins of the connector you just unplugged. If it is a NO switch, then the jumper will now give you a tractor without a seat safety switch.
If that doesn't work it's time to study the schematic more carefully. Since it runs while in "Start", it is definitely in the safety circuit. The other culprits could include the PTO and reverse switch, but I can't really think how it should be them. I really think it's the seat safety.
You'll have to decide for yourself if the tractor is safe enough without a seat safety switch. You might be able to modify the switch in relation to the seat to make it more sensitive to being sat on. The seat safety is a good idea, but not when it doesn't let the tractor work as intended.
Let us know how you do!
That absolutely sounds like a safety switch. I had a 2000 series at my parents years ago, long gone, but I think I remember enough to possibly help.
There would be a safety switch for the brake, and for the seat. The tractor shouldn't fire at all if it were the brake safety switch, so I'm betting on the seat safety switch.
Cub used a goofy switch in that style that depended on the seat foam compressing and activating the switch. As the seats age, the foam gets stiff and can no longer activate the switch (unless you decide to put on a bunch of weight!).
You'd have to look at the schematic to be sure (should be in our library), or just try what I'm suggesting. I believe the switch is "Normally Open" (NO) and makes contact to allow current flow when closed with weight on the seat. To verify, first unplug the switch under the seat, and you'll likely get the same bad result you have now. Then make a short wire jumper with spade clips and jump across the two pins of the connector you just unplugged. If it is a NO switch, then the jumper will now give you a tractor without a seat safety switch.
If that doesn't work it's time to study the schematic more carefully. Since it runs while in "Start", it is definitely in the safety circuit. The other culprits could include the PTO and reverse switch, but I can't really think how it should be them. I really think it's the seat safety.
You'll have to decide for yourself if the tractor is safe enough without a seat safety switch. You might be able to modify the switch in relation to the seat to make it more sensitive to being sat on. The seat safety is a good idea, but not when it doesn't let the tractor work as intended.
Let us know how you do!

1872, 46", 50C decks, Haban dozer blade, 450 snow blower
2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
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2182-1, Kwik-Way Loader, 3-pt & rear pto, 442 tiller
2182-2, 54" deck, 551 snow blower
Past tractors: 1541, 2135
<><
- dag1450
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Re: 2166 Won't Stay Running
Welcome john! Any updates on this dilemma? ....ok...yes i had to look up the spelling for that last word. See...how it works around here, if i dont come clean first, Mike and Tom will call me out on it :x
127, 1650, 1572, 1872, 2072 . A mower, blower and blade for each.