Cast iron rear swap
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 6:32 am
- First and Last Name: Matthew Spinazzola
- Location: Wilmingon, DE 19808
Cast iron rear swap
Well first I just want to say I have a whole new appreciation for the Registry. You really don't know what you've got till it's gone!
I finally picked up a CI rear for my project build. It is out of an 82 series and has an internal brake. I want to run external brakes. What do you guys usually do with the brakes? Should I use the brake pivot that is on my tractor? or get the external arms and linkage for the ci rear? Remove the internal brake pads or just plug the hole with the pads inside?
I finally picked up a CI rear for my project build. It is out of an 82 series and has an internal brake. I want to run external brakes. What do you guys usually do with the brakes? Should I use the brake pivot that is on my tractor? or get the external arms and linkage for the ci rear? Remove the internal brake pads or just plug the hole with the pads inside?
- mgonitzke
- Posts: 392
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- First and Last Name: Matt Gonitzke
- Location: Wichita, KS
Re: Cast iron rear swap
It would help to know what model tractor you're trying to put it on
Original, 582 w/ 18 hp Kohler Command, 682 w/ Kwik-Way loader, 782, 782D, 1872 My Cub Site
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Sat Sep 11, 2010 6:32 am
- First and Last Name: Matthew Spinazzola
- Location: Wilmingon, DE 19808
Re: Cast iron rear swap
It used to be a 582, but it is going hydro.
- Farmallgray
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- First and Last Name: Todd Markle
- Location: Spring Mills, Pa
Re: Cast iron rear swap
Matt,
I would use the brake pivot and linkage that is mounted on the frame. I don't know what to say about the internal brakes. Since they are pretty easy to find,
I would just use an external brake rear instead if you want to use the external brakes.
If you decide to keep the rear you have now, I would remove all the internal brake parts and figure out a way to plug the plunger hole. Maybe tap it for a pipe plug.
I would use the brake pivot and linkage that is mounted on the frame. I don't know what to say about the internal brakes. Since they are pretty easy to find,
I would just use an external brake rear instead if you want to use the external brakes.
If you decide to keep the rear you have now, I would remove all the internal brake parts and figure out a way to plug the plunger hole. Maybe tap it for a pipe plug.
See my IH, Cub Cadet and tractor pulling youtube videos;
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray
http://www.youtube.com/user/farmallgray
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- First and Last Name: Ray Weaver
- Location: Stevens, PA
Re: Cast iron rear swap
i would find a external brake rear as well just like todd said they are cheaper than wet brake rears so you will have money in your pocket from the exchange find a puller they want the wet brake rears
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- Posts: 74
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- First and Last Name: Matthew Spinazzola
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Re: Cast iron rear swap
I wish I new that before I drove two hours one way and paid $50 bucks for it. I will probably part out a 127 I got to get the rear. Life is hard without the archives.
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- First and Last Name: John Underwood
- Location: Ogema, WI
Re: Cast iron rear swap
I have been making plans for a swap like this and I think I would use an internal brake setup. My thought is to hook the internal brake up to the hydro control and use it for the primary park brake. Then I was going to set the external brakes up for the dual pedals to use as turning brakes mostly. Now I am starting with a super frame for my build and it is a somewhat specialized build, but I thought this might be a good setup.
- mgonitzke
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- First and Last Name: Matt Gonitzke
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Re: Cast iron rear swap
That's probably what I would do, too.junderwood wrote:I have been making plans for a swap like this and I think I would use an internal brake setup. My thought is to hook the internal brake up to the hydro control and use it for the primary park brake. Then I was going to set the external brakes up for the dual pedals to use as turning brakes mostly. Now I am starting with a super frame for my build and it is a somewhat specialized build, but I thought this might be a good setup.
Original, 582 w/ 18 hp Kohler Command, 682 w/ Kwik-Way loader, 782, 782D, 1872 My Cub Site
- rharris
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- First and Last Name: Rick Harris
- Location: Independence, KY
Re: Cast iron rear swap
Ditto. Remember, the 82 series has the drivetrain angled to account for higher engine mounting points. I have been told that the factory external brake linkage will have clearance issues with the bottom of the frame.
I have an 1810/1811 with a cast rear from a 149. I removed all of the brake linkage from the trans and connected the calipers directly to the secondary brake rockshaft that the newer 720,000 and up Cubs have under the frame. If you have an 82 series cub between 665,001 and 719,999 it may be simpler to use the internal brake rear.
I have an 1810/1811 with a cast rear from a 149. I removed all of the brake linkage from the trans and connected the calipers directly to the secondary brake rockshaft that the newer 720,000 and up Cubs have under the frame. If you have an 82 series cub between 665,001 and 719,999 it may be simpler to use the internal brake rear.
Building my Cub Cadet fleet....one bolt at a time.
- mgonitzke
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Re: Cast iron rear swap
I can attest to that. Tried it on my 582 when I put a 126 rear in it. I had to use the CCC brake linkage because the linkage for the CI rear hit the frame.rharris wrote:Ditto. Remember, the 82 series has the drivetrain angled to account for higher engine mounting points. I have been told that the factory external brake linkage will have clearance issues with the bottom of the frame.
Original, 582 w/ 18 hp Kohler Command, 682 w/ Kwik-Way loader, 782, 782D, 1872 My Cub Site
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- Posts: 74
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- First and Last Name: Matthew Spinazzola
- Location: Wilmingon, DE 19808
Re: Cast iron rear swap
The parking brake idea sounds good. I think I will get an external brake rear though and save my internal brake rear for a future project.